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UNIVERSITY OF GUELPH LIBRARY

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Fleming, James Sturk
Ancient castles and mansions
of Stirling nolility

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L THE AVTHOR

Preface.

WHILE engaged in collecting materials for the compilation of my
small book on The Old Ludgings of Stirling, it occurred to
me that the scope of my investigations might with advantage be con-
siderably extended. Frequent references to country houses in the
neighbourhood and to intricate genealogical complications tempted me
to pursue the subject further, and to devote the scanty leisure which
the exigencies of my professional work allowed to the discovery and
delineation of the mansions and fragments of -mansions still remaining
in the vicinity. I engaged in this fascinating work without the least
intention of publishing the result of my labours ; but as my sketches
accumulated, and as many of them represented the remains of ancient
buildings not hitherto illustrated or even noticed, many friends, in
whose judgment I have confidence, recommended the publication of
the whole series.

The favourable reception accorded to my smaller work, The Old
Ludgings, has encouraged me to persevere with my investigations, and
also to hope that the light thrown on the domestic habits and social
relationships of the Gentry more immediately connected with the
Royal Burgh about 400 years ago and since, and also on the domestic
architecture of that interesting period, may be regarded as a sufficient
justification for the publication of this volume.

It was of course only natural that during the Jacobean period,
when Stirling was so frequently the residence of the Court, many
houses of considerable architectural pretension should be erected in and

Ylll. PREFACE.

around the town. Unfortunately, few of these now stand. Some have
been so much altered and added to as to be almost unrecognisable.
Some have been superseded by mansions in a style more consistent
with modern ideas, in which case the older buildings have been utilised
as lodgings for workmen, or stable accessories, or worse still, have been
left neglected and allowed to fall into ruin ; while in other instances
only a dovecot, gateway, or a moss-grown dial, bearing weather-worn
sculptured crests and initials, is left to mark the spot where the ancient
family mansion stood. In other instances it was not without consider-
able difficulty that the exact position and character of the original
building could be ascertained.

I must acknowledge with gratitude my obligations to the pro-
prietors of the various old houses which I visited for their uniform
courtesy and kindness in affording me every facility for gaining the
information I desired. My thanks are especially due to Mr. H. M.
Shaw Stewart, M.P., of Carnock, the late Colonel Stirling of Gargun-
nock, Colonel Wilson, Bannockburn House, Mr. James Aitken of
Darroch, and the Hon. Mrs. Livingston of West Quarter ; also to Sir
James Balfour Paul, Lyon King-at-Arms, for his most valuable assist-
ance, always so cheerfully given, in deciphering doubtful family
bearings, crests, and initials, and to Mr. J. W. Campbell, Stirling, and
Mr. Galbraith, Town Clerk, for free access to the Burgh Registers at
all times.

The illustrations have all been sketched by the author from the
existing remains, with the exception of Kinnaird, WTest Quarter, Cal-
lander, and Keir old mansions, representing buildings which have now
entirely disappeared or been rebuilt.

J. S. F.

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Contents and List of Illustrations.

♦ >< ■»■

CHAPTER PAGE

Preface, ------ vii.

i. Town Houses or Ludgings, - - 17

2. Castellated and Domestic Archi-

tecture, - - - - 29
Ancient House of King's Servants,

Castlehill, - - - 24

Old Playfield, do., - 20

3. Earl of Stirling's Ludging, - - 38

Front (South view), - - - 44

Back (Noith view), - 46

East view, - 50

Porch and Coat of Arms, - - 41

Court view, ----- 39

Menstrie Mansion, Front view, - 54
Court, or Back view, - -58

South view, - - - 60

Arched Gateway, - - 55

4. Sir James Holburne, Menstrie, Door-

way and Coat of Arms, - - 63

Old sun dial, ----- 64

5. Mar's Ludging, 66

Tower doorway, with inscription on

lintel, ----- 67

Mar's Ludging —

Rear archway,

Inscription over it, -

Carved stone, satyr's head,
Do. symbol,

Do. do.

Do. winged figure, -

Do. cipher and coronet,

Do. do.,

Do. symbol, James VI.,

Do. national emblem,

Do. head,

Do. dog's head,

Do. satyr's head,

Figure with date 1572, -

North Tower lintel,

South do.,

Mar Tower, Alloa, -

East view,

Crest over doorway,
John Cowan's Ludging in i860,

Oak carving, -

Dormer (date 1633),

70
17
17
25
35
52
29
67
69
68
73
7i
74
75
72

73
77
80
81
83
86
88

!°3

CONTENTS AND LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

CHAPTER PAGE

;. John Cowan's Ludging —

Dormer (date 1697), - 88

Draw well, - - 89

Ruined turret, - - 90

Ancient fireplace, - - 91

Rums of Ludging in 1898, 94

Key of house, - 93

Corbel from do., - - 105

8. Cowane's Hospital, - - 96

John Cowane's statue, 87

Panels with inscriptions, 97

Two tablets, - - - 97, ico

9. Wester Polmaise Mansion (Alex.

Cowane's), - - - 102

10. Coldoch Mansion (Robert Spittal's), 109

Panel with ancient inscription and

Spittal's arms, Doune Bridge, - 107

11. Spittal's Hospital (Trades' Hall), - 115

Porch thereof, - 113
Panel on it, - - - -116

Old panel on Spittal Street house, - 114

12. Alms House (Spittal) 78 Baker Street, 120

Panel with figures, - - 117
Turret stair, - - -118

Panel with coat of arms 122

1 3. Blairlogie (Spittal) Old Ludging and

Manse, - 123

Blairlogie Castle (prior to alterations), 126

Vignette do., - 124

West dormer, - 127

Do., 128

East dormer, - 128

14. The Manor (Robert Callander) in 1850, 132

Its ruins in 1899, -
Panel with Callander arms.

130
i37

15 Craigforth Old Mansion
Callander),

(John

140

Later mansion,
Old Kildean Mill, -
Carved figures on it,

'43

J45

139, 146

CHAPTER JAGE

16. Wester Livtlands Mansion (Robert

Murray), - - - - 149

Old House, Bell's Close, - - 147

Concealed recess in mansion, - 15 t

Painted beam of do , - - 152

1 7. Logie Ludging (The Forresters), North

view, - - 159

East view, St. Mary's Wynd, - 157

Turret stair, - 164

Door in do., - - - 158

Site of Logie Mansion with old Kirk, 162

18. Torwood Castle (Provost Sir Alex.

Fori ester), - - - - 167

Main doorway, - - 165

Banquetting hall, - - - 173

Sir Alexander's tombstone, - 170

Garden Old Tower (Forrester),

Tombstone in Garden Aisle, - 174

19. Elphinston Ludging, "Craigis Closs ' 179

Vignette, Broad Street view, - - 177

Inscriptions thereon, - - 178

Old dormer, - - - - 181

Elphinston Tower, Dunmore, - - 183
Airth Cross erected by Charles

Elphinston, - - 182

His arms thereon, - - - 1S8

19. Old Skaithmuir Tower (Sir Alex.

Elphinston), - - - 190

Carved window lintel, - - 189

Sun dial, ------ 191

Quarrel (Carronhall), Elphinston

Mansion, - 196

Old turret, do., - - - 193

Old chapel interior, - 194

Window of do., - - 19S

Ancient sun dial, - - - 192

20. Sauchie Ludging (James Shaw), - 200

Sauchie lower, - - - 28

Sauchie Mansion, 34

Sauchie Tower and Mansion, - 209

Alex. Shaw's arms thereon, - - 199

Old panel with Shaw arms on tower, 202

CONTENTS AND LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

XI.

CHAPTEK

20. Sauchie Ludging-

North dormer window, -

204

Do. do.,

211

South dormer window,

201

Do. do.,

205

Do. do.,

212

Recess or oven,

203

21.

AUCHENBOWIE LUDGING (PrOVOSt R.

Bruce) in 1820,

213

Do present day, -

214

AUCHENBOWIE MANSION, -

217

Old sun dial, -

2 19

22.

Bruce's Castle (Old Carnock, Hep-

burn tower), -

222

Gothic doorway of do., -

221

Ancient fireplace, -

226

23-

Kinnaird Old Mansion (Master Rob.

Bruce), -

229

Vase, finial of facade,

227

Sun dial, ... -

231

His tombstone,

232

24.

Stenhouse Mansion (Sir W. Bruce), -

235

Dormer, ..-.'.

233

Panel with his arms,

238

25-

Clackmannan Tower (Robert Bruce),

241

East view, -----

2 39

26.

Gari.ett Mansion (Alex. Bruce),

245

27.

Carnock Mansion (Rob. Drummond),

251

Old panel with his arms,

249

Dormer window (thistle and rose), -

250

Do. (initials, J.H.),

254

Do. (date 1634), -

254

Do. armorial,

255

Do. do.,

255

Do. monogram, -

256

Old oak door,

253

28.

Piovost S;r James Stirling of Keir's

Ludging, -

259

East corner, - - - -

257

The Mansion of Keir in 1783,

263

CHAPTER PAGE

28. Stirling of Keir —

Sir James' Seal, - - 265

Bardowie Castle (Keir superior), - 266

29. Arnhall Mansion (Harry Dow), - 269

Old tombstone to Helen Stirling, his

wife, ----- 466

30. Woodside Manor (Sir Henry Rollo), 272

Sculptured stones, date, and mono-
gram, - - - 273
Ancient fireplace, - - - - 271
Woodside Mansion (No. 2), - - 275
Door lintel with Rollo, etc., arms, - 277
Tablet and Strachen arms, - - 279

31. Bannockburn Mansion (Rollo), - 282

Tibermasko, or St. Skeoch's Well,

(St. Ninian's Chapel), - - 281

32. St. Ninian's Ludging (Rollo of Pow-

house), ----- 289

Rollo crest, - - - 291
Sculptured lintel in Parliament

Close there, - 287

Do. do., do., 288

33. Livingston (Earl of Linlithgow) sup-

posed Ludging, Fleshers' Tavern, 293
His coat of arms on West Quarter

House, - - - . 295

Callender Mansion in 1789, - - 298
Effigies of Baron and Baroness in

Falkirk Church, - - - 300

West Quarter Ancient Mansion

(Sir W. Livingston), - 306

Ancient dovecot, - 303

Sir William's coat of arms, - - 304
Sir William Livingston, Baron of

Kilsyth's arms, - - - 309

Haining Castle (Thomas Livingston),

Front view, - - - -311

North view, - - - - - 310

Corbel, - - - - - 310
Arms and crests of Livingstons of

Haining, - - , - 314

Xll.

CONTENTS AND LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

CHAPTER

34. Plane Tower and Manor (Somerville), 315

Ancient Tower, - - 317

Interior of do., - 321

Doorway, - - - - - 324

35. Kerse Castle (Sir W. Mentehh), Zet-

land Mansion, - - 327

Arms of Sir William, - - - 325

Old sun dial with Hope arms, - 325

36. Kersie Old Mansion, - - 329

37. Airth Castle (Bruce and Elphinston), 333

Do. from churchyard, - - - 334

Old east tower, - - - - 331
Inscription on burial vault of Sir

John Bruce, - - - - 335

Do. on lintel of Airth Church, - 337

Airth cross, arms of Bruce and

Elphinston, ■ 338
Do. Charles Elphinston's arms,

vignette, - - back of Title page

38. Leckie Ludging (David Moir), - - 340

Leckie Old Mansion, - - 343

Ancient iron gate in do., - 342

The Moir crest or arms, - - 346

39. Touch Fraser Old Mansion (Seton), 350

Old tower of do., - 347

Touch old fortalice and chapel, - 348

Tablet over archway, - - - 352

40. Gargunnock Mansion (Lady Norma-

viH), - - - - 353

Old parts of house, - - 355

Old sun dial, - - - 358

Arms of Campbell of Ardkinless, - 353

41. Polmaise Old Mansion (Murray), - 361

Old dovecot, - - 359

Panel, - - 359

Murray arms, - - - 364

42. Gaktmore or Gartavartane Old

Tower (Sir John Graham), - 367

Gartmore Mansion in 1783, - - 37c

Sir John's arms, - - 365

42. Gartmore Tower —
Ancient sun dial,
Sun dial,

366

372

43. Mugdock Old Tower (William, Lord

Graham), - - - 373

44. Kilbryde Old Castle (Sir J.

Graham), - - Frontispiece.

Old castle prior to alterations, 186 r, 377

Old parts of present mansion, - - 383

Present mansion from the Glen, - 379

45. Graham of Panholes' Ludging, - 385

46. Erskine of Gogar's Ludging, - 388

His coat of arms, - 387

47. Little Sauchie Castle (Erskine), - 391

Dining hall interior, - - 389

Old dovecot, - - 394

Panel and inscription, - - - 393

48. Chartersha' Mansion, inscribed slab

from ancient bridge, - - 395

49. Castle Campbell or Gloume Castle

(Earl of Argyll), Court, - - 401

Entrance, banquetiing hall, - - 399

Sketch plan, - - 403

Front view, vignette, - - 404

50. Newton Mansion (Edmonston), east

view, ...-- 406

Mansion, south view, - - - 409

Tower iron gate, - 407

Slab with armorial bearings, - - 412

5 1 . Cambusbarron Old Mansion ( Wordie),

relics of, - - - - 414

Wordie arms, - - - - 413
Inscribed tablet on Torbrex old

mansion (Williamfield), - - 415

Stone figure, - - - - - 418

Alleged site of its old chapel, - - 415

Torbrex Mansion, 1721, - - 419

Buchanan arms on do., - - - 420

52. James Bowie's Ludging,
Sculptured doorway,

422
421

CONTENTS AND LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

Xlll.

CHAPTER

52. James Bowie's Ludging-
Two dormer windows,
Sculptured Bowie arms,

53-

54
55
56
57
58

Town Clerk Norrie's Ludging,
Window tympanum with inscription,
Sculptured head forming fmia',

Provost Stevenson's Ludging,

Bailie Bauchop's Ludging,

A. Smith of Glassingal's Ludging, -

Old Coffee Tavern,

An Old Hostelry, St. Mary's Wynd,
Symbol on corbel, -

59. Ancient House, Broad Street,

Dormer window, east and inscription,
Do. back do.,

Do. west do.,

423

424

426

427
43°
43i
433

435

437

439
440

442
443
444
445

60. Old Sculptured Doorway,

61 Le Boghall (supposed), -

Old gabled house, Baker Street,
Tablet with inscription on it, -
Old-fashioned house, Bow Street,

447

45i
449
45°
453

Do. window-sash, Baker St., 455

Old port gate key, - - - 454

Old Port Gate and Guard Room, 456

Ground plan of do., - 456

Remains of do.,

Ti lie page

Old Stray Coat of Arms and in-

scnbed tablet, - - - - 458

62. Old Bridge Mill, - - - 460

Addenda et Corrigenda, - 465

Old Halberts of Stirling Burgesses, - 468

Index, - 469

3ncient Castles and Mansions
of Stirling Nobility.

* i ♦ i »

^ilK

CHAPTER I.

Town Houses or Ludgings.

The Town House of a Nobleman was termed his Ludging
in Old Scotch." — Lord Lindsay.

the ancient Town Houses or Ludgings of
the Nobility, Officials, and Gentry, most
existed, although in more or less delapidated
condition and ruined state, until the year 1784,
up to which year the Town of Stirling retained its ancient condition
almost unaltered for many centuries previously, with the exceptions
of the clearance of ruined Houses in 1671 and of the obstructive
outshots and forestairs in narrow neck of St. Mary's Wynd, by
special Act of Parliament in 1705,

15 ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

Dr. Rogers says : " Up to the former date many of the ancient
buildings are alleged to have borne early dates of erection almost
incredible. A stone in an old ruined building taken down on south
side of Broad Street, the ancient High Street, is alleged to have
had the date nil, and in a passage, or close, in St. John Street
leading to the old Episcopalian Church, a stone in a building bore
the almost impossible date of iooo." '"

The Town became a permanent Royal residence (although it
was so for longer or shorter periods at intervals so far back as the
reign of Alexander I. and subsequent kings) in the reign of David I.,
when it grew from a comparatively small country town of that semi-
barbarous era to the size it had attained in the middle of the six-
teenth century, principally through the residence of the Regents,
Nobility and High Church dignitaries attending the Court, and then
remained stationary for several centuries. During the sixteenth
century, Queen Mary's reign, it became more the residence of the
Nobility than at any other marked period, and many substantial and
elegant structures were then erected, some of which, although ruined,
still shew an advanced ornamental domestic architecture commanding
our admiration. These are principally in courts and back closes.

In this Queen's troublous time, it was the scene of more
important historical transactions and events than even Edinburgh,
the capital itself. The whole of the streets, except the "Hie Gait"
proper, or Market Square, now Broad Street, (which from the addition

* Note. — // is incredible, for one reason, it was not the fashion at that early period to affix
names and dates on domestic buildings, and the weather effects of ten centuries would efface or make
illegible any inscriptions; and the dates may probably be 151 1 and 1600, the figure 5 in its ancient
form being very similar and often taken for an I.

TOWN HOUSES OR LUDGINGS. IQ

of fronts added to several old houses is shewn to have been then
some 25 feet broader than at present) were little better than narrow
lanes, for the most part called " Vennals " and " Raws," and irregular
and confined.

It was asserted that notwithstanding its granite rocky founda-
tion, parts of the high grounds were of a mossy character, and that
a few of the older houses there were discovered to have been
founded on planks or trees where these soft parts existed. The
mossy subsoil on the surface of the rock is attributed to the remains
of an ancient forest, which tradition ascribes as having covered a
considerable part of the upper Town, Gowan hills, and Castle Rock,
and which forest trees, in Pont's Topographical Map of 1654, are
depicted as then also studding the Royal Park. No trace of roots of
trees of such a forest has ever been found either in Castle Hill or in
cultivating the King's Park, and Pont is not always a reliable authority.

The Town proper, very small in dimensions, surrounded by a
south wall supplementing its natural physical defences on the north,
was entered from the east by an archway, which Dr. Rogers describes
as "of ponderous masonry, flanked by two towers, 20 feet thick,
secured by a huge iron gate and portcullis, containing within its
walls a guard room ; and from the north by the river Forth, the
bridge over which was secured by an archway with an iron gate," no
regular built wall on the north side seeming necessary beyond rough,
irregular, loose stone work, parts composed of enormous stones, sup-
plementing the steep declivity of the ground on this side. No part
of the ancient Town has been less interfered with than the Castle
Hill and its houses, its original condition being almost preserved,
and not the slightest trace of a regular built wall, as a continuation

ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

of the south Town wall, exists, or is shewn, in the various ancient
illustrations of the Town and Castle of the end of the seventeenth
century, to have existed there. The public way seems to have led
from an area at the present Grammar School, up the Castle Rock, and
divided about half-way to the Castle, one branch going to the Castle,
and the other leading down the north declivity to the lower Castle
Hill, and through its valley westward to the pass of Ballingeich.
Here a bye gate in a rough dyke named the "great wall" because
of its representing the Town wall such as it was, seems to have
been placed on the declivity of the continuation of the present road
between the upper and lower Castlehill, about the position of the
group of figures on this Sketch. The line of foundations of the

fro^ Site of Qpp^ng St&t^T"-

TOWN HOUSES OR LUDOINGS. 2 1

old houses indicate this direction, and this state existed before the
recent new road was cut through to Ballingeich. There were in
addition various bye or side gates of simpler character for the con-
venience of the Burgesses in St. Mary's and Friars' Wynds, etc.
It is in mind, also, that in 1746, a period when traces of any
wall would exist, that the Magistrates gave as a justification for
surrendering the Town to Prince Charles, that it had no wall on
the north side except "slight dykes and hedges."

It may be a coincidence merely, but it seemingly confirms this
view as regards Stirling, the rock being of nearly similar configura-
tion on its north side to Edinburgh, that Mr. Peter Miller, in an
article read to the Scottish Antiquarian Society in 1887, remarked
regarding the ancient Edinburgh wall, that it was not continued on
the north side, and assigns a similar reason — that at that date the
northern side of the edge of rock, including part of High Street,
was a steep clift furnishing sufficient natural defence.

The Town was, in the sixteenth century, of a very limited area :
no buildings of an earlier period than the beginning of the eighteenth
century lie outside the limits comprehending Broad Street, St. John
Street, Spittal Street, and Baker Street to the Infirmary, St. Mary's
Wynd to the King's Stables, with an exception hereinafter noted.
The old Burgh Records, about 1473, mention only High Gait or High
Street, South Gait or Back Raw, Middle Raw, St. Mary's Wynd
or Vennel, Kirk Wynd, Castle Wynd, and Friars' Wynd, with build-
ings on the Castle Hill and at the Old Bridge. In the years between
1544 and 1550, the town being divided into quarters, each overlooked
by a Bailie, the householders, or heads of families, are censused at 385,
of which 86 are given to St. Mary's Wynd, Castle Wynd, and north

2 2 ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

part of Hiegait (now Broad Street) ; 98 to Back Raw, south side of
the Hiegait, and a part beneath on the north side ; 98 to the South
Quarter from Belgebrig (at the lower end of Bow Street) downwards ;
and 103 to the North Quarter, including, no doubt, the Middle Raw,
afterwards Baxter Wynd, now Baker Street, and a few houses in
Friars' Wynd, etc.

During this period, and for nearly a century prior to 1603, the
Old Town was the residence of the Regents — Lennox, Mar, Morton,
Moray — noblemen, highest Church dignitaries, and the lairds of
adjoining estates, to whose ludgings the Burgh Registers make
numerous references, and many of whose successors retain to this day
in their families the names and estates of their ancestors ; and these
buildings mostly belong to the period of the Regencies, and down to
Cromwell's Protectorate.

In the vicinity of, and under the protection of, the Castle, in the
Hie Gait, South Gait, and Back and Middle Raw and Vennals of the
Virgin Maria and Castle respectively, were situated the residences of
the nobility, municipal functionaries, and higher class burgesses, which,
from the Burgh Records, appeared to have been situated principally in,
and virtually lined both sides of the Hie Gait. These corbie-stepped
front-gabled houses, the form borrowed from France and Holland,
were at their highest prevalence in Edinburgh in 1620. Few houses
earlier than 161 1 now survive in Stirling, a considerable clearance
having been made by the Magistrates' order in 1671, for the demolish -
ment and re-erection of the then ruined ancient buildings, and those of
which we give sketches are therefore of the greater interest.

As might be expected, the royal servants attending at the
Castle had their residences in its vicinity, and we have the remains

TOWN HOUSES OR LUDGINGS.

of very ancient buildings still existing, of which we give sketch on
page 20, any one of which may be either of the buildings referred
to in the following Royal grants to his servants.

Sketch No. 1 is alleged to be the old house of Thomas Ritchie.

James VI., on 28th September, 1578, granted to Thomas
Ritchie, his servant, and Janet Meclum, his spouse, the piece of
land called the Au/d Pleyfeild, lying near to the Castle on the
north side thereof, near the gate of the " Great Wall." And on
15th July, 1579, he grants to Thomas Erskine, "servant in our
Buttery " [servienti promptuaris suo), and Christian Thomson, his
spouse, for the good services of the said Thomas, the lands on the
north part of the Castlehill of Stirling, against the east part of the
well ("fontem" ') called " Scottis Wall," between the garden of said
Thomas Ritchie. And on 23rd May, 1595, sasine is given to
Christopher Lambe, " Maister cuik to His Magestie," "of a little
chaumer big-git by him on the crag" (on the Castlehill), "and to
Jonet Rudderfurd, his spouse."*

* Note. — This Royal "Maister cuik" was one of the principal conspirators in Earl Angus'
treasonable proceedings, and King James VI. specially exempts him from pardon in his Deed of
Remission and Pardon to the Stirling Town Officials, etc., dated at Falkland, 26th June, 1584.

-n~Le. c? O-CUA^n^ .

Sketch 2.

CHAPTER II.

Castellated and Domestic 3rchitecture.

for classification, the form and fashion of the

ancient country residences of the nobility

of Scotland may be divided into three periods,

of which the following are good types in the

immediate neighbourhood : —

i. The period previous to, and continuing to,

the end of 1400 — Bruce Castle at Carnock, Kil-

bryde near Doune, and Castle Campbell and Gartartan or Gartmore

Castle, " The Haining," Plean, Alloa, Clackmannan, and Sauchie

Towers.

30 ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

2. This comprehends the whole of 1500 — Blairlogie Castle,
Newton, Lecky, Torwoodhead, and Little Sauchie Houses, Mugdock
and Bardowie Castles, Menstrie House (older part), Carnock House,
the Manor and Touch and Gargunnock Houses, etc.

3. The whole of 1600 — Sauchie Mansion House, Auchenbowie,
Bannockburn, Easter and Wester Polmaise Houses, Stenhouse, Wood-
side, Wester Livilands (which is not typical), Garlett, Westquarter,
Quarrol and Kinnaird, etc., and newer portions of Menstrie House.

First, and most interesting, period. — It is scarcely realisable
that the mansions prior to 1500, consisting of a single massive
square tower, or keep, with turrets at its four angles, and with
its surrounding moat or wall, or partly both, forming a court,
intended primarily for defence, are all of a higher class of architecture
and are more elaborate and ornamental in internal construction,
combined with care and skill in the selection of material and in
workmanship, than in those mansions erected in the subsequent
more peaceful times.

The mediaeval ages were the most turbulent in our history,
when what was owned had to be held by the strong arm. Family
feuds and rival ambitions made life and property insecure, and
raids and burnings, with retaliations, were every-day occurrences
amongst the nobility. These prevalent excesses few monarchs were
able to suppress, or to hold their lords in check, whose numerous
vassals made them petty kings. The vassals were not only so in
name, but in reality, and subject to assist their lords superior by
the obligations of their holdings, giving their lords a legally sanc-
tioned jurisdiction, frequently and unscrupulously exercised, of pit
and gallows, over any contumacious or rebellious vassal or retainer.

CASTELLATED AND DOMESTIC ARCHITECTURE. 3 1

Proportionate to their rank, they supported numerous retainers, who
joined their lords in their feuds, resided in, and warded the tower,
and all alike went daily armed in some fashion. The tower, with
its protecting moat or wall, was erected strong enough to withstand
a temporary raid, but unable to stand any siege.

Notwithstanding these lawless and turbulent times, adverse to
the cultivation or development of the arts, there then existed in
Scotland a skilled element in art and a cultivated taste, which had
been introduced into its architecture long previously, from the
Continent, and had fused with its inhabitants, especially amongst
the monks and other ecclesiastics. It was not confined to the
erection of abbeys and monasteries in the country, as part of this
taste is exhibited in the present remains of the domestic architecture
forming the residences of the nobility of that period, which being
primarily intended for security, seems superfluous.

On the Continent, art and architecture were almost at their
highest excellence, and the refined noble ecclesiastical structures —
with their exquisite sculpture and profuse ornamentation of twelfth
century, whose existing fragments at this day command our admira-
tion— were yet in evidence. The ecclesiastical officials did not
then confine themselves strictly to their sacred duties, as they
appear not only as learned scholars and eminent statesmen, but also
as skilled architects and builders, and even gardeners. However that
may be, or from whatever cause, these massive stone towers, with
their machicolated battlements, not only show a master designer and
builder, in the selection and adaptation of materials, and skill in the
workmanship, with the study of the buildings' proportions and
devices for protection and defence, but each and all of them have

32 ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

evidence — where ornament did not interfere with the solidarity of the
fabric, or its being safeguarded from a foe — of refined taste and
execution, which none of the buildings erected in the subsequent
and more peaceful periods bear. There seems to have been a
decided retrogression, during the subsequent settled and peaceful
times, in the domestic architecture of Scotland, and no careful
observer of the existing remains of the buildings of these different
periods but must have experienced this reflection. Mr. Ross, the
Rhind lecturer, seemed to notice this, and states that the foreign
church builders were employed, in the first period, in the building of
mansions for the Nobility when their church building ceased.

The general arrangement of the interior of these towers
(Sketch 2), which seldom exceeded 34 by 28 feet over all the walls
— which are 4 feet thick — consisted of 4 stories, viz., one large
apartment on ground floor (a kitchen and general apartment), having
an ample fire-place and open draw well, and recesses for stores ;
and here is also the guard-room, a small apartment at the doorway ;
the ceiling of this general apartment, which forms the floor of the
apartment above, being heavy stone vaulting, and the lights mere
slits in the walls, and even these all secured by iron bars. The
first floor is one large apartment, with enormous fireplace, the lintel
stone, in some instances, 10 to 12 feet, and exquisite artistically carved
jambs, the windows few and narrow, and all barred with iron, the
bars interlacing. This is the dining hall, used for lord, lady, guests,
and retainers, sitting at the same board and in one company, but
according to their rank and sex. The superincumbent flats formed
the dormitories — small, narrow, and confined, with sparse accommo-
dation for the absolutely necessary bed, and receptacle for the

CASTELLATED AND DOMESTIC ARCHITECTURE.

scanty wardrobe of their occupants. A stair passing through the
massive walls leading to these apartments ascends also to the top
of the tower, which has a low pitched roof, and a passage of two
feet broad encircling the battlements, a covered turret forming the
termination of stair being utilised as the watchman's shelter. The
coat of arms of the owner, more or less rudely or ornamentally
sculptured, was inserted either in front of the tower over its door-
way, or over the archway in its encircling court wall. These char-
acteristics, more or less varied in form, exist in the above mansions
of this period.

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The Second period, from the beginning to the end of 1500, is
an abrupt and complete change, a style of a simple two crow-stepped
gable-house and wing, with a tower, round or square, in the front,
with main entrance and stair ; and one, but more frequently, two,
pepper-box turrets on the angle of each gable commanding either

ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

side, the lower windows narrow and guarded with interlaced bars ;
and often one or more loopholes for shot guns commanding the
doorway ; walls, 3 to 4 feet thick, and built solid, with internal stone
stair ; all rooms small and low in the ceiling, and with dormer win-
dows ; the tympani enriched with date and initials of the owner and
his wife, or by fantastic symbols and Latin mottoes. The coat-of-
arms over doorway, or on a conspicuous position on the main house
front. The ground plan, an L, with high walls on the two other sides
forming a protecting square internal court; and most buildings situated
on naturally inaccessible positions. The building is now changed
in consequence of more peaceable times, and sacrificing its strength
and the inconveniences of a fortification for more domestic comforts
to its occupants and their social habits ; in fact, accommodating itself
to the times. And as these were not yet quite settled, and law and
order not yet paramount, the building was made strong enough to
protect its owner and his family from straggling marauders. This
period has formed a distinct style, known as the Scottish Baronial,
and was carried to great perfection.

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CASTELLATED AND DOMESTIC ARCHITECTURE.

The Third period (1600) — following the succession of James VI.
to the English crown (1603), and consequent cessation of wars with
our "auld enemies, the English," constituting a complete settlement
of the country, and establishment of security generally — exhibits a
gradual transition to a fine domestic architecture, with all the con-
veniences and comforts for which the building could be made avail-
able, and a total abandonment of the semi-fortified house, with its
provisions for protection. A taste, both in town and country, at the
early portion of this century prevailed for inserting scrolls, quaint
devices, emblems, moral and scriptural mottoes, names, dates, and
initials, of owner and his wife, on the mansions of the aristocracy and
wealthier burgesses ; or, sometimes, family crests with arbitrary altera-
tions on it, as witnessed in Sauckie Mansion above, and in the old
burgess dwellings in the ancient Cities and Burghs of Edinburgh,
Stirling, and Culross.

CHAPTER III.

r\ETURNING to the "Old Ludgings " in Stirling. Proceeding

^^ from the Castlehill we have the finest specimen of a Nobleman's

Ludging or Town House in Scotland, it is authoritatively stated, in the

Earl of Stirling's Mansion.

(See Sketch opposite. No. j.)

The town mansion situated at the head of Castle Wynd, Stirling,
near the Castle, commands an extensive view of the Ochils, the
Saline Hills, and the Carse of Stirling, with the silver thread of the
Forth winding in many mazes through it ; and, also, of the town of
Alloa, Clackmannan Tower, etc., the latter a conspicuous object in
the landscape. It also, like the view from the Castle ramparts, over-

40 ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

looks the famous battlefields of Stirling Bridge, Bannockburn, Falkirk,
Sauchieburn, and Sheriffmuir. The original plan is E shaped (the
middle beam of the letter representing its handsome porch) (Sketch 4),
with two towers (one dwarf), having conical roofs, in the inner angles.
The tympani of its numerous dormer and public room windows are
all varied and richly ornamented with coronets and scrolls interlacing,
those at the back being festooned with clusters of flowers, fruit and
other garden products in arabesque fashion, and all in semi-classical
style. It is considered a perfect specimen of a French chateau, and
the most magnificent example of a Scottish nobleman's ludging or
town mansion, extant in Scotland.

Over the arcade entrance is an artistic and elaborate framed stone
panel, containing the Earl's paternal and assumed Nova Scotia com-
bined coats-of-arms, finely sculptured, with the mottoes, "per mare
per terras" and " aut spero aut sperno" respectively, ("through sea
and land," and " I hope or despise.") Internally it had a noble
entrance hall (now sub-divided by partitions) with large fire-place,
having massive stone jambs, and lintel with sculptured figures. On
the first floor, a lofty baronial hall pannelled in oak, and similarly
sculptured massive stone fire-place. A wide oaken balustraded stair-
case communicating between the two floors, having carved oak figures
at the landings. All the internal stairs have steps peculiarly moulded.

A small oratory, with niche in the east wall for a saint's statue,
enters immediately off the hall. The Duke of Argyll, who subse-
quently acquired the mansion, extended the two wings and erected an
ornamental arched gateway to the street, with two small hexagonal towers
flanking internal side of the gateway (above Heading), thus forming a
court (having a short flight of steps to the gateway) of 47 feet square.

Sketch 4.

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EARL OF STIRLING S MANSION. 47

The centre original building is 90 feet long, and three storeys in
height with three tiers of windows, the lower series being barred,
while the domestic offices were in the west or north-west wing. The
ornamental windows, 14 in front and 13 to the back, all differ in the
designs on the tympani. The chimney-heads where joining the
roof are ornamented with scroll carvings. The porch is j\ feet by
5 feet deep, with two pillars and two pilasters. The date on the
ancient porch and a dormer is 1632, but it is believed the building
was begun earlier. The building of the central parts and wings are
completed according to the original plan, and in harmony with each
other. The initials of the Earl and Janet Erskine, his Countess,
with their coronets, appear on two dormers,. On the southmost of
the hexagonal towers, built by the Duke of Argyll, is the date 1674,
and the Duke's crest, a boar's head, which also appears on the
windows and door heads of the parts he built.

The whole buildings have suffered severely by the operations of
the Board of Ordnance in suiting its occupancy for a military hospital,
windows being bricked up, and sculptured work covered with plaster,
and other more objectionable alterations.

The garden to the back seems to have had a terrace, and the
prospect from it is unsurpassable. It is now all waste. (Sketch to 7).

This fine building was erected, or at least begun, about the year
1630, and carried on from time to time as the Earl's financial position
enabled him, and he ever seems to have been borrowing. The
Viscount had in that year been, by directions of Charles I., marshalled
by Lyon King of Arms, allowing to him his arms, quartered with
that of the Clan Allister, who had acknowledged him chief of their
clan, and had been entered along with Archibald Alexander of Tarbet,

48 ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NUBILITY.

the actual chief of the clan, as Burgess of Stirling, on 10th August,
1 63 1, the year preceding the mansion's erection. He was then resident
at Menstrie House.

His second son, Sir Anthony, was the architect. Sir Anthony
had studied architecture on the Continent, then at its best period,
and on November, 1628, was (no doubt with his father's all-powerful
interest) appointed Master of Works for Scotland in conjunction with
Murray of Kilbaberton, and in 1637, Royal Surveyor, at joint salaries
of ,£12,000 Scots.

He was initiated into the rites of his craft at the Lodoe of
St. Mary's Chapel in Edinburgh, and in this connection chosen
" General Warden " of the Master Tradesmen of Scotland, receiving
half of apprentice entrance fees and penalties, although his appoint-
ment was contested by Sir William Sinclair of Roslin, who protested,
but unsuccessfully, against it.

Anthony was admitted a Burgess of Stirling in October, 1632.
He died at London on August, 1637, and his corpse was brought
to Stirling by sea, and interred by torchlight in Bowie's aisle of tha
High Church, his brother, Sir William Alexander, having predeceased
him. He was a man of acknowledged talent, if not genius, and regret
was expressed at his early death. He was married, but had no children.

Out of seven sons, Charles alone survived the Earl.

The Earl's uncle Archibald was a merchant in Stirling and Dun-
fermline, and was Magistrate and Dean of Guild at Stirling in 1593
and 1 60 1. Another uncle, Andrew, Writer in Stirling, was owner of
Southfield, and, in 1616, is called brother to the guidman of Menstrie,
and, in 1627, uncle to Sir William Alexander.

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EARL OF STIRLING S MANSION. 5 I

The Earl's history reveals a personality of no common kind, and
whether as a poet or politician, he had great pertinacity and per-
severance. He was fruitful in resources for accomplishing his varied
schemes of a gigantic character, in all of which, however, including his
colonization of Nova Scotia, he was unfortunate. He became involved
in such pecuniary straits, that, although he resorted (under his monarch's
favour, exceptionally exerted in his behalf) to various questionable
practices in order to replenish his purse, he seems never to have been,
even in his greatest prosperity and power, free from debt. He died
bankrupt at Covent Garden, London, on ist November, 1640.

Sir Thomas Urquhart, a contemporary, gives a fine and just
character of the Earl, which has been so frequently quoted and
is so generally known, the reader is referred to it. His body, em-
balmed, was buried in Bowie's Aisle, beside his son, Sir Anthony,
who had, after its acquisition from Thomas Craigengelt, by his father,
partly rebuilt it, and made the upper part the family pew.

This Town Mansion was heavily mortgaged to the Masters of
Spittal's Hospital, and on 11th September, 1655, G. Robertson reports
to the Patrons of the Hospital "that all the Earl of Argyll would
give for Charles Alexander's house was ^"1000 in four years' time,
the Masters to get all the plenishing put in for the poor." To such
base uses was this splendid mansion, within fifteen years of its noble
owner's death, and twenty-three of its erection, put to — a common
poorhouse for the indigent and vile. The Duke of Argyll's erections,
although subsequent in date, are of inferior style and meaner character,
and from their dilapidated appearance, and the destruction by wind and
weather of part, shews that they have been erected of less substantial
and durable materials, in contrast to the original earlier mansion,

ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

which remains unimpaired and in its original external magnificence.
The Earl of Argyll entertained Charles II., when a prince, within
its walls, and also, in 1680, James II., then Duke of York. The
Earl resided in it in 171 5, when his forces were encamped in the
King's Park, previous to the Battle of Sheriffmuir. The last royal
resident was the Duke of Cumberland, in 1746, while on his way
north to Culloden Field.

The mansion and burying-place, or aisle, was sold by the Duke
of Argyll in 1764 (the family having held it fully 100 years), to
James Wright, Writer, Stirling, who retained part of the large garden
on which he built a residence, and sold the mansion and part of
remaining ground to the Government for a military hospital ; but this
possession, from the indifference and ignorance of the officials and
tradesmen employed, has been attended with dire results.

The aisle was removed in making some church alteration, and
the ashes of the Earl, in a lead coffin, and those of his family, were
scattered to the winds. The whole history of family and building
reads like a tragedy.

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Country or Nenstrie House.

The original part of the old family country mansion house, situated
at the foot of the Ochils, was of the Scottish type of plain house,
with turrets at the crow-stepped gables of the sixteenth century. It
seems to have been considerably altered and added to so as to form
three sides of a square, having an east wall making an enclosed

56 ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

court, and these extensive alterations and additions, with profuse orna-
mentations, apparently made by Sir Anthony. The tympani of 'the
dormers have disappeared, but the arched gateway (as above) through
the west front to the court shows a remarkable mixture of Scottish
and classical mouldings, with pillar, cable, and ball-flower enrichments
of an earlier style, mingled with architrave, frieze, and cornice of
pseudo-classic entablature. These all retain their sharpness, free from
injury and weather effects. Parts of other buildings, especially in
the court, indicate an older period. Here a room is shown where
Sir Ralph Abercromby was born. The orchard, remains of old trees,
and traces of a drive, indicate grounds of some size and taste. The
parts yet bear evidence of the flames of Montrose's burning. Here
the Earl composed most of his poems. It is now occupied by a
dairyman, and the buildings turned into byres, cattle sheds, etc.

The origin of the Alexander family and of their ownership of this
old Menstrie Mansion, goes back to the residence of the Argyll family
in Castle Campbell, when an Alexander, a son of Tarlach Mac-
Alexander, came from Kintyre sometime about 148 1, and settled down
in Menstrie under the protection of that powerful family. In 1505, a
Thomas Alexander de Menstry officiates as one of sixteen in an arbi-
tration between the Abbot of Cambuskenneth and Sir David Bruce of
Clackmannan ; but he must have been a brother, as Andrew Alex-
ander was then proprietor of Menstrie, and had a son Alexander.
He appears as proprietor prior to 1527. This Alexander was suc-
ceeded by his oldest son Andrew, who married Marion Coutts, and
their eldest son Alexander married Marion Graham of Gartavertane,
by whom he had two daughters and a son William, the Earl of
Stirling, who is supposed to have been born at Menstrie in 1572. As

COUNTRY OR MENSTRIE HOUSE. 6 1

a scholar, William was selected to travel with Archibald Seventh Earl
of Argyll visiting France, Spain, and Italy. He succeeded on his
father's death to the small patrimony " Mains of Menstrie."

On 4th March, 1598, by agreement with, and on payment of 6000
merks to the Earl of Argyll, and in consideration of his services " in
foreign nations and at home" (thus keeping the companionship in mind),
the Earl granted him the whole Lands and Barony of Menstrie, the
Mains of Menstrie having been previously resigned by Earl William
for the purpose of incorporation by Argyll in the Barony.

The building of the original or earlier part of this Mansion would
refer back to the possession of the Mains of Menstrie by William's
great-grandfather, Alexander, in 1527. It was burnt by the Duke of
Montrose in 1645, f°r his alliance and connection with the Earl of
Argyll at the same time with Castle Campbell, the Earl of Argyll's
residence.

The Earl prior to 1603, married Janet, daughter of Sir William
Erskine, Commendator of Glasgow, whose initials are on the two
dormer windows of the Town Mansion. This Mansion seems to have
been furnished and occupied by them for the first time, in the autumn
of 1635.

His history in the Memorials of the Earl of Stirling, (Edin.
1877, 2 vols.) must be referred to for his life.

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CHAPTER IV.

Sir dames Holburpe of Menstrie's

Mansion.

7f TWO -STOREY dwelling-house, with crow-stepped gables,
V- M having a fine doorway, with the Holburne coat of arms over it,
(Sketch above) stands in the High Road, or Street of Menstrie, and
is popularly known by the name of "Windsor House," or "Castle."
Its appearance is not very ancient, and the date of its erection may be
about the end of the seventeenth or the first decade of the eighteenth
century. The property could not have been long in that family, as we
find from the title deeds it had fallen into the hands of Alexander
Abercromby, father of the hero of Aboukir, and was feued by him, in
1726, for ^"68 Scots, to a Thomas and William Dawson, and is
described as lying in the " Barony of Regality of Menstrie, Parochine
of Logie, and Sheriffdom of Clackmannan." It was subsequently held
by John Alexander, merchant, and his son, James, gets a charter of
confirmation from Major-General Ralph Abercromby, the hero himself.
The deeds give no explanation of the name, nor afford any
assistance in tracing its owner ; the coat of arms, with its motto,

64 ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OE STIRLING NOBILITY.

Decus summum Virtus, alone identifying" it as the mansion of either
Sir James Holburne, first Baron of Menstrie, or of a cadet of the
family. The local names used in the boundaries, of " Maiden Well "
and " Gravestone or Little Well," arouse some interest in the village,
whose sun dial, or public time-keeper, is also sketched below.

The family is only traceable from the beginning of the seventeenth
century when James Holburne of Menstrie married Janet, daughter
of John Inglis. Their son, James, was created first Baronet by Queen
Anne, in 1706, and he was succeeded by his son, Sir James, who had
a son, also Sir James, both advocates, the latter being the Examiner of
Exchequer. This Sir James was succeeded by a son, Sir Alexander,
whose son, also Sir Alexander, the third Baronet, a captain in the
Royal Navy, dying without issue, was succeeded by his cousin,
Francis, Rear-Admiral, Governor of Greenwich Hospital, and M.P.
for Stirling Burghs. After his death, in 177 1, his son, also Sir
Francis, the fourth Baronet, succeeded.

A descendant, Miss Mary H. Mary Anne Holburne, of Bath, in
1852, left ^8000 for building and endowing a church in her ancestor's
Barony of Menstrie, which has now been applied for that purpose.

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Mar's Ludging, Stirling.

an unique specimen of ornate domestic archi-
tecture of the renaissance of the middle of
the sixteenth century it forms an object of great
interest. A front elevation wall with two octagonal
towers flanking an archway, on which towers are
the arms of the Earl, that on the north with his
Countess's arms impaled, with the Royal arms over

the archway, and an ivy-covered north gable, extending in all 1 20 feet
E

68 ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

across the head of Broad Street — the ancient "Hie gait," — is all that
remains. It forms a protection from the north-west winds to that street.
It was erected by the talented and noble Regent, 6th Earl of
Mar, partly on the waste ground of the town, and the site of an old
tenement acquired from a Walter Geagie, described as "next to the
church, all parts of the town's lands subject to it of an annual rent or
feu-duty of £/\. ; " and seems also to have included the site of Robert
Callander of Manor's old tenement.

The date of beginning the erection is presumably that on the Royal
coat of arms over the archway, 1570, and of its completion, 1572, the
date of the tablet in the hands of the figure which has apparently formed
the head of the arched gateway before its removal to a mean house in
the Craigs. In sketching the numerous ciphers and symbols adorn-
ing the front elevation, the repetition of the letter A (see heading)
with Earl's coronets, etc., of which sketches are given here, and the
dress and appearance of the figure holding the tablet with date, 1572
■ — a gentleman in plain dress — while the other figures are either
in court dress, or professional musicians and soldiers, struck me as
having significant meanings. Regarding the A,
the search from 1306 to 1598, amongst the many
hundreds of Erskine's relations to the Mar family,
and other large land owners, reveals only one
instance, Thomas Lord Arskine, witness to a
charter of James II., dated 1457, who used the
A for his surname. In the Regent Mar's charter
(builder of this Mansion), by Queen Mary, 23rd June, 1565, his name
is John Lord Erskine. King James VI. 's charter is to John, Earl of
Mar, Lord Erskine, and his spouse, Lady Annabella Murray, Countess

MAR S LUDGING.

of Mar, in life rent and Maria Erskine, their daughter, dated at
Stirling Castle, 29th July, 1 57 1, during the very progress of its erection;
and in the charter to Little Sauchie by James V., dated 7th June,
1 541, to James Erskine, he is described as brother-german of John
Lord Erskine. The James VI. letters of remission for the raid of
Ruthven, are to John Earl of Mar, Lord Erskyn, and Master James
Erskien ; and in another charter dated 1584, Jane Margaret Erskin
is designed as daughter of John, Earl of Mar, Lord Erskine. No use
is made of the letter A, although it will be noticed that different
spelling" of his surname is adopted by each member in these writs ; nor
does it once occur in the Mar Peerage Trial Record (Ancient and
Modern), in the numerous references and quotations from charters
therein furnished. The only instances I can give of its being used
is a letter from Killigrew, English Ambassador to Burleigh, dated
29th October, 1572, the day following the Regent's death, that Alex-
ander Areskine, the Regent's brother, had told him there was no hope
of life in Mar ; and in the signatures to two letters, from John Lord
Areskine, afterwards eighth Earl of Mar, dated 16th December, 1647,
one from Stirling and the other from Alloa, to Sir George Stirling of

Keir, as given in the " Book of Keir."

I have been unable to get a signature
of Regent Mar, when Lord Erskine, he
always signing " Mar," and the matter is
thus unexplained why A should be adopted
by him on his house as representing his
family name of Erskine. This sketch of
the A with a mullet, two of its rays in-
serted, may represent Annabella Murray,
the mullet being her family arms.

x.jM±

■o

ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

As regards the figure with tablet 1572, although defaced, it is
recognisable as the portrait of a gentlemen in plain dress, and is thus
different from the other courtier-dressed and mythical figures. From
the prominent position it had held, and as bearing the date of the
completion of his mansion, it is most likely that of the Regent himself.

# * v ptW'

7* ^

-i-' u mil Hi ^-' '■ ■ v-i -^ ' ■ 'B»

MAR S LUDGING.

As the Regent died suddenly (under a suspicion of poison), on
28th October, 1672, his occupancy was brief.
The mansion was, however, undoubtedly
occupied, and continued so during her
lifetime, by his widow, Annabella Murray,
who, as representing her husband, the
hereditary custodier of the Royal Princes,
had continued the charge of the infant
James VI. That he may have resided
occasionally in this mansion with her may-
be implied from a letter addressed to her at Stirling by Queen
Elizabeth of England, in November, 1672, the month following her
husband's death, in which the Queen cautions her "to watch over the
safety of the young prince, her dear relative."

That it was the Dowager Countess's residence after her son, John,
the 7th Earl in succession to the Earldom, is certain ; he having married
Lady Mary Stewart, a cousin of the King's, and from the fact of
the King having visited his cousin in 1592, at Alloa House, the young
Earl had undoubtedly adopted that mansion as his residence.

The garden and grounds to the rear of the Ludging were
augmented by charter granted by James VI., to the said Annabella,
Dowager Countess, on 16th April, 1582, by the addition of the
"Haugh and Brae," and part of the Parkhill, taken from the Royal
Park. These are described as on the south side of the then cemetery,
(the present valley, and back walk, and bog), and as " having remained
utterly waste since the memory of man." This strip of ground,
" Haugh and Brae," subsequently known as Lady Annabella Mar's
Haining, or enclosure, it is sad to reflect, is, with the above ruin,

/ -

ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

the sole residue of most extensive possessions anciently held by the
Mar family in Stirling, now remaining to their descendants.

The description of the boundaries of this grant, are interesting for
the ancient names of the different parts of this locality. The present
Butt Well is characteristically named the "Spout Well," the "Cow-
gate," supposed for South Gate, the street or road in this locality, now
St. John Street, the road from the Castle gate to the Royal Park and
" Parkhill Craig," identified in the present " Lady Hill," " The Valley,"
and the " Auld Dyke," as the Town Wall.

Mar's Ludging.

I 4HE eccentric genius, Charles Kirk-
* patrick Sharpe, who claimed royal
descent through the said Lady Mary
Stewart, published an interesting work of
his royal ancestress, entitled the Household
Book of Mar, inserting amongst the illus-
trations, from his own pencil, a sketch of
Mar's Ludging. It is a meagre and poor
work of art without attempt at delineating in detail its many character-
istic ornaments. The intention of the builder, the character of the
architecture and sculptured figures and emblems, with its significant
inscriptions coupled with the Earl's relation to the owner of the then
deserted extensive monastical buildings of Cambuskenneth Abbey (of
which the only remains beyond the bare foundations, are the ancient

ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

tower and fragment of a fine arched doorway), raised the traditional
controversy now continued and still undecided, of the mansion having
been built with stones from the Abbey, ruthlessly pulled down and thus
disposed of, and that a curse attending the sacrilege prevented it being
ever finished or occupied by its builder. The history of its erection is
certainly obscure ; but architects emphatically refute the above sugges-
tion, and declare that all the building details have been carefully
designed and executed for the positions the stones occupy, or if any
such, these must have been altered to suit the original intention of
the architect. No stone having an ecclesiastical character is embodied
in the structure, while the inscriptions founded on to support the
tradition have no significance, but are merely moral or religious
mottoes, as was the fashion of the period, as all antiquarians know.
We notice two emblems of a religious character, viz., what seems
the " Bambino," forming with its cross bandages an upright pillar, but
the face is of an adult, not a child, and an inscription 'c nisi dominus,"
(p. 52) under the spread wings of an angel. Mr. Archibald, a local

geologist, at our request, specially ex-
amined the stones of the existing ruins
of the Abbey, and compared them
with those of the ruined Mar Mansion.
He reported that both buildings were
erected of two kinds of stones and
from the same quarries. This, of
course, is not conclusive. From Tim-
othy Pont's old plan of Stirling, 1620,
the Mansion is shewn with the two towers having their cone-shaped
roofs, and the building otherwise appears complete and entire,

MAR S LUDGING.

The building, which authoritative architects describe as having
more affinity to the Gothic style than to the Jacobean Renaissance,
and resembles in some respects the Palace in Stirling Castle and
Falkland Palace, has a series of sculptured figures (life size), emblems,
and monograms, as well as the inscriptions referred to. A row of
emblems on each alternate stone, forms the seventh course from the
lintels of the base doorways, extending from gable to gable and around
the two towers ; above it, and similarly set at regular intervals, are half
length figures, and where unmutilated can be identified as cavaliers,
ladies, and musicians, etc., in French costumes of the period of erection,
which were then in fashion at both the English and Scotch Courts.
The other carvings and pillars, which the half length figures support,
are in keeping with those on the Palace of Stirling Castle, erected
in 1529 by James V. We know James V. hired French architects;
and French workmen were sent to him by the Duke of Guise, his
brother-in-law. In April, 1539, he, by his letters, appointed " Nycolas
Roy, Frenchman," Master Mason for Scotland, and "six French
masons," "with miners (quarriers) from Lorain," were sent by the
Duke ; and in 1559, Queen Mary appoints "John Koytell," apparently
a Frenchman, master mason. We find that
about the period of erection, work was being-
done on Edinburgh and Stirling Castles, and
the author of the illustrated work, Master
Masons for Scotland, expresses his opinion that
the two Palaces, Stirling Castle and Falkland,
bear French characteristics, with hints of the
Renaissance superadded to the Gothic, after
the Parisian or Orleans type. The stones used in the Stirling Palace

to^%tf!fl#

y6 ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

erection were blue, hard and difficult of being chiselled, and came from
Kingudy on the banks of the Tay, four miles west of Dundee.

Mr. Honeyman, R.S.A., architect, an authoritative antiquarian,
expresses an opinion that the original Mar building stood exactly in
the centre of an enclosure extending from the Church to a point 32 feet
north of the west gable, that it seemed to have been commenced by
the Regent Mar in 1570, and was almost, if not altogether, completed
at his death in 1572.

The octagonal towers have doors in front with internal stairs
communicating with the upper storey, and in the basement, three vaults
or booths, on each side of the towers, are like shops. The basement is
isolated from the upper storey .and the centre passage through the
archway has no opening on either side, nor had a gate at the court-
yard end (p. 70). The main entrance to the upper storey being, he
suggests, from the court side.

The inscriptions over the tower doorways are : — -

On North Tower.

Til m@m d §ta$® @>m ®&&m mbtwt

MWFAWLTES M@BB SViEIGT ART® 81THT.

On South Tower.

0 PRAV AL LV'GKAEtDS @P8 TWOS LVQBNQ

VBTBC ©INTDL I T@ dUP TUCAOEt BVtBN®.

Over Rear Archway.

ISS^y • 8PI0K- FVBVM AN)© -8PABE1 ■ !S*@THT
@®NSD@@m • VI BL • B • GASES • NJ@TKT.

The inference — almost a certainty — is that the King's French
architect or master mason, drew the design. It may be that some

MAR S LUDGING.

of the French workmen on the Palace were employed, and that stones
from the same quarry were used. The close friendship and the favour
with which the Regent was regarded by the Royal Family supports
this inference.

j]i»

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CHAPTER VI.

Regent Mar's Country Mansion,
Alloa Tower.

3 SQUARE massive tower of three storeys, with walls six feet,
and in some places eleven feet thick, with recesses, and a tower
about eighty-nine feet high, with corner turrets, and fine antique
porch with crest and griffen. Of the date of the erection of this
venerable and interesting feudal relique, which is the oldest complete
edifice standing in this district, perhaps in Scotland, history is
silent, but it must be very early, and tradition attributes it to a
king. It was excambed by David II. with Lord Erskine, the lands

82 ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY

exchanged being in Perthshire. It was occupied successively by the
Mar families, the hereditary custodiers of Stirling Castle and keepers
of the young princes. Many monarchs resided and received their
education there, notably Queen Mary, James VI., and his son,
Prince Henry.

The possessions of this powerful and wealthy family included the
Barony "de Alway, cum castro, fortalitio, molindinis," etc., and were
held off the crown direct.

As an illustration of the important possessions and offices held in
Stirlingshire alone (in Clackmannanshire, Perthshire, etc., these were
more extensive and important) ere the family's decline and subsequent
attainder for the part taken in the 1 7 1 5 Rebellion by Secretary of State
Lord Mar (completing the family's fall and leaving it in poverty), we
quote a charter by King Charles I., dated 25th March, 1635, to John
Earl of Mar, Lord Garioch as heir of John Earl of Mar: "With cap-
taincy and custody of Stirling Castle, with the meadow, formerly
Gardyne Buttis, at Gallowhills, with pasture for six horses, superiori-
ties of the Lordships of Stirling, seneschal of Menteith, Lordship of
Buchan, etc., etc., lands and Mill of Cultenhove, Sheriffship of Stirling,
Lands of Cambusbarron with patronage of the Chapel of Cambus-
barron, Abbey of Dryburgh, Priory of Inchmaholm, and Church Lands
of St. Ninians ; Lands, Baronies, and Churches, Teinds, and others of
old of the Abbey of Camkuskenneth, etc., the Lands of Raploch, called
the King's Raploch, the brae or bank called ' the Hauch ' or Haining,
the tiends of Kirktown alias St. Ninians Kirk, etc."

It is outside our province to deal with family histories, except
in so far as assisting in the identification of the buildings and owner-
ship of these ancient mansions, and the Mar family has an ancient

ALLOA TOWER.

and interesting" record for historians. It is a sad reflection, this
ancient and powerful family, stripped of its many high offices, depleted
of its vast possessions, and impoverished by the extravagances of its
members, ending with the attainder and forfeiture of its title by the
unlucky and prominent part played by the Secretary in the Rebellion
of 171 5.

K^a^e-^x-K o- M_-e-t* cLo^o^-^Uj-cl-oL.

CHAPTER VII.

The Cowane Mansion Mouse.

"*HIS Ludging is next in architectural and historical interest to
* the Ludgings of the Earls of Mar and Stirling before described.
It is situated on the west side of the ancient " Vennal of le Virgin
Marie" now St. Mary's Wynd. The building is now in ruins. There
have been two distinct buildings side by side, united by a passage,
and the outer, or street house, is of more ancient construction than
its back neighbour ; and the building also shows sioms of two distinct
periods of alteration, and also of the re-erection of its upper portion.

The front building, as shown on the sketch (opposite), taken as the
building appeared about the year 1 860, shows an original frontage of three
storeys, with two fine dormer windows, having the dates 1633 and 1697

ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

respectively, and initials and monogram representing John and Alexander
Cowan (see heading, Wester Polmaise) and John and' Alexander Short.
The later dormer contains a coat-of-arms, a tree with hunting-horn slung
across its trunk, a bent bow with arrow set, on the right, and hunting-
knife on left. It may be the arms of the Short family (sketch below).

THE COWAN E MANSION HOUSE.

The building has a square staircase in the front, and turrets on the east
and west corners of the north gable (sketch page 90). It is about
100 feet in length, with gables 5 feet thick, the southmost, containing
the kitchen flue, being the thickest. The general building is composed
of the commonest rubble, the small stones being bound by the old
lime, which is, even at this date, as hard as the stones themselves, but
the windows and door jambs, lintels, and soles of the first two storeys
— the more ancient part of the building — are finely moulded, and the
present projecting staircase has evidently replaced an old outshot, or
outside stair of some kind, with an entrance through a door yet visible,
although built up in the second storey. From the very ancient draw
well in an alcove of the kitchen,
and the mouldings of doors, etc.,
this part of the building is evi-
dently about 100 years earlier
than 1633, the earliest date on
the dormers. Probably its erec-
tion may be attributed to the
end of the fifteenth century, and
the date on the dormer must
therefore refer to the rebuilding
of the upper part and back
house. There was also attached
behind this building a large hall
or chapel, 16 x 16 feet, with
circular arched ceiling 16 feet
high, two fine stone carved fire-
places (sketch page 91), and

ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

seven large square windows, having oak carved linings, of which the
headpiece, page 88, is a sketch, all now gone. It is popularly alleged
that an opening shown adjoining the staircase is a subterranean passage
to the castle. The north port gate of the town stood at its front.

In Mr. Cook's article on John Cowane's life there is corroboration

from the Registers of Sasines of
the result of our examination of
the buildings themselves of an
earlier possession by the Cowane
family than 1633, the name of
"John Cowane, merchande," grand-
father of John Cowane, Stirling's
benefactor, appearing in 1544, in
the first quarter, or Mary's Wynd
district ; and the continuous pos-
session by the Cowane family is a
fact having an important bearing
on the identification of the owner
of this mansion house.

Dr. Rogers claims as its original
owner the Regent Morton, and
that the chapel or banquetting-hall
was used by the Earl for sumptuous
banquettings to the foreign ambas-
sadors on his reception of them
with their credentials. If this were
so, the hall would have a tragic interest, as it was at one of these
banquets, in April, 1579, Chancellor the Duke of Athole was poisoned.

THE COWAN E MANSION HOUSE.

This requires that the Ludging should have been owned until the
Regent's death in 1587, when it was, Dr. Rogers says, first acquired
by the Cowanes. No deed or authority showing a connection with
Regent Morton is offered or referred to. Architects agree that the
building can be traced, from its style of architecture, to have been
erected in the sixteenth century.

Mr. Cook says Bailie Andrew Cowane, John's father, on 4th April,
1580, bequeathed this property to his son James, a surgeon, who
having predeceased him, it passed to Andrew's two other sons, John
(the benefactor of Stirling), and Alexander, a surgeon, whose daughter,
Agnes, was married to James Schort, merchant. From the above

I'llllllWlllKM j~T

information we can only guess that the front and older building was
erected either by John Cowane (the grandfather), early in the sixteenth
century, or by Andrew Cowane, the wealthy merchant, about 1 563 ;

92 ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

that he added the back house in 1603 ; and, subsequently, that the
whole upper part of the building was carried up a storey, the turret
added, and the internal parts much improved by the wealthy sons,
John and Alexander, and completed in 1633. The subsequent addition
of J. S. and A. S. 1697, were made on the dormer after Alex-
ander and John Schort, his nephews, succeeded to it. John Cowane
(Stirling's benefactor) died in 1633, when Alexander succeeded to it
as his younger brother and heir; by his death, in 1644, it passed
to Alexander Schort; and at his death, about 1663, to John Schort,
provost, who died in 1654.

From the title deeds by disposition and assignation, dated 17th
September, 1762, Albert Munro, with consent of Hew Mackaill,
apparent heir of his mother, Elizabeth Schort, daughter of deceased
Alexander Schort, in decreet of sale against the creditors of Elizabeth
Schort, inter alia, conveys to Archibald Brown of Greenbank, Eliza-
beth's just and equal third of that tenement of land lying in the Mary
Wynd of the burgh of Stirling, as lately posssssed by herself and Ann
Schort, her sister, and Catherine and Elizabeth Ann Brays, her nieces,
height and length, back and fore, with the close, yeard, well, and per-
tinents thereof belonging of old to Alexander Cowane, merchant, grand-
uncle to Alexander Schort, merchant in Stirling, her father, and son
of umquhile John Schort, Provost of Stirling. This deed, by which
the property for the first time during a continuous possession of fully
two hundred years, passed for ever from the Cowane family, takes up
and continues the connection from Alexander Cowane, John's brother.
By disposition and assignation, dated 8th February, 1764, the said
Archibald Brown, with consent of Ann Schort and her nieces,
Katherine and Elizabeth Ann Brays, conveys the property to James

THE COWANE MANSION HOUSE.

Scott and Thomas Gilfillan. In November, 1 77 1 , having been used
as a carpet weaving factory, it was thereafter sold by the creditors to
Patrick Connal for ^100. It passed by succession from Patrick Connal
to his sons, and it is then described as " commonly called The Carpet
Mantifactory House."

Whin in Patrick Connal's possession, it may be of interest to

learn that he gave a tack of it to John
M 'Gibbon, writer in Stirling, Town Trea-
surer, appointed by the Lords of Council
and Session, and as authorised by the
Managers of said Btirgh (the town having
been at this time disfranchised by reason
of its corrupt Magistracy and Council, was
under managers), of date 1st April, 1776,
"for behoof of the community of the said
Burgh, and for the purposes of schools,
and accommodating the masters thereof
within the same."

The property seems to have been in a
"K'eij ..To"Kn (Jownas Hovse state of great dilapidation by non-occupation
after the failure of the Carpet House Company, Scott & Gilfillan, as,
while reserving a cellar behind the house, commonly called the " Milne
House," Patrick Connal is to repair and make sufficient the floor in
the upper kitchen, and to glaze the windows, " which are not so at
present."

This building, the undoubted ancestral family residence, and,
almost for certain, the birthplace of John Cowane, Stirling's most
generous benefactor, was unroofed some years ago by order of the

ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

Town Council, the patrons of his Hospital, on the plea of its being in a
dangerous condition, and has ever since been totally neglected by the
very patrons of the house he founded. Whoever is to blame, the
neglected condition of this ancient mansion reflects on the gentlemen
representing the institution John Cowane founded, and to the town's
people, who so largely benefitted for above two centuries by his hand-
some provision for them, it is little less than a scandal. The handsome
oak carving was taken away ; only scraps remain of what surrounded
the hall windows, of which we give a sample ; and also a sketch of
the massive door-key of the mansion.

"Zp*6 >*z.

Rums of Ccwan's Ludgmg t%98.

Sticks «

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THE ENTEIiTAIKiYENT
Of DECAYED CALDX
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I WAS JMK ANDYE VISITED nrwf.XXK

CHAPTER VIII.

Uohn Cowane's Hospital.

3 LARGE two storey, crow-stepped gabled
house, with two wings and a campanile
tower, containing what is represented as the
donor's statue (page 87), forms a ground plan of an
inverted Fl, the tower and entrance forming the
middle limb, and the other two the wings. The
dates on it, 1638 and 1639, represent the periods occupied in its

98 ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

erection, as we find that the Accounts of John Robertson, "one
of the Measters " of Cowane's Hospital, begins with "Crop, 1635."
The trust must have therefore been administered in an old house
shortly after John Cowane's death in 1633.

The heading, " Accounts and disbursements dispensit be James
Robertson, younger, on the demolishing of ye old house and building
of ye new ane in place yrof, calit Cowane's Hospital," shows that the
building items run from Whitsunday, 1636, to October, 1638, and
amounted to ,£5,502 Scots, and a smaller further expenditure in 1639.

The whole purposes of the mortification, which the donor's brother
and heir-at-law, Alexander, voluntarily agreed to, and did reverently
and conscientiously carry into effect, are shewn by the contract and agree-
ment and disposition by him of certain lands, bonds, and annual rents,
dated "at Stirling on the Threttene day of Februare, the yeir of God
Jajvjc threttie and seven yeiris," given to Provost Thomas Bruce and
the Councillors and Deacons of Stirling, "representing the haill bodie
and communitie thereof," to dote, mortify and bestow "All and Haill
the soume of Fourtie thousand merkis, usuall money of this realme, to
be employed on land or annual rent for building and erecting of Ane
Hospital or Almous hous, wl. in the said Bur1? to be callit in all tyme
cumyng Cowane's Hospitall, and for entertenyng and sustenyng there-
intill of the number of Twelf decayed Gildbreithers, actual Burgesses
and Indwellaris of the said Bur1? or at least sa manye of them as the
yeirlie rent of the said Hospital or Almous hous may be conveniently
to susteyne wl. in the same."

Although not a party thereto, Henry Guthrie, minister, signs the
deed, and hence, we presume, arises the claim of the first minister and
his successor to be a patron.

JOHN COWANE S HOSPITAL. 99

In the " Measter's " Accounts £$0 Scots is entered as Provost
Thomas Bruce's expenses "to Edinr. and returning back the time of
settling the agreement between Umq. Alexander Cowane and the
toune," a significant reminder of the almost immediate death of Alex-
ander after his conveyance ; and also a fee to John Williamson, Clerk
(Sheriff and Town Clerk), for " writing the writs of the mortified landis."

How long the residence of the "twelve Gild breithers " was con-
tinued is uncertain, but the Dormitory was utilized as an hospital
during the plague and cholera epidemics, and subsequently occupied as
a private school. The Refectory was used as a public meeting place
and for assemblies, down to 1852, when the floor between these two
apartments was removed and this part of the building formed into the
present fine hall, with open oak roof and stained glass windows — the
larger east window containing the repetition of John Cowane's statue
and Gildry arms, by Ballingall.

Of the various articles preserved connected with John Cowane
and the Gildry, the most valuable and interesting is the old oak
carved coffer, with its moral and religious texts (reproduced from the
building itself), gifted by Alexander Cowane, apparently in his brother's
name, in 1636, to contain the Gildry muniments and title deeds — no
doubt the Deed of Mortification principally. Its acquisition was a
valuable and appropriate addition to the Hospital and hall, and its
donor is entitled to the best thanks of the whole community. The
chest has evidently been made by a foreigner, as shown by the mis-
spelling and use of "cittie." A common practice at that period was
to obtain all oak carving from Holland. It is almost certainly Dutch
work.

IOO

ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY

The inscription reads-

" NO BETTER THOUGHT THAN THINCKE
ON GOD AND DAYLY HIM TO SERVE.
NO BETTER GYFT THAN TO YE POORE
WHYCHE READIE ARE TO STERVE.
MAN SHALL NOT LIVE BY BREAD ALONE
BUT BY EVERIE

WORD THAT PROCEEDETH OUT OF THE MOUTH
OF YE LORD.

IOHN COWANE'S GVIFTE TO YE CITTIE OF
STERLING 1636."

" IT IS MORE BLESSED TO GIVE
THEN TO RECEIVE.

I WAS HUNGRIE AND YE GAVE ME MEATE.
I WAS THIRSTIE AND YE GAVE ME DRINK.
I WAS A STRANGER AND YE TOOK ME IN.
NAKED AND YE CLOTHED ME.
I WAS SICK AND YE VISITED ME."

•J

J
d

if ._ >-&^^ I f

4-i

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■'■■ "■'" ::,|5!i»ii:'::|?;-:i,,ii;!:il:'«||C;.l;iiii:w""" ''1«»|i'|i!:|''*W.)i!:!ll!',!'.!WWtttlWl

CHAPTER IA.

Wester

Polmaise

or Stewart Hall

I— iORMED part of the ancient Barony of Polmaise Cunningham
belonging to the Cunningham family, and came into the Murray
family through a daughter, Cristina Cunningham, having married
William Murra of Tulchadam. From a charter dated 9th November,
1475, where she is designed as his relict, it appears she survived him.

Alexander Cowan, the esteemed brother of John, in whom was
reposed implicit confidence to carry out the magnificent endowments
with which John had entrusted him on his death-bed, was joint owner
of Cowan's Ludging in St. Mary's Wynd, and his initials appear, in
conjunction with those of his brother, and the date 1633, on one of the
dormers (above sketch). He acquired this small, detached estate, and
for distinction from the other Polmaises, he named it " Polmaise
Cowan." It is a three-storey square tower, having crow-stepped gables

104 ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

and high-pitched roof, with a turret stair on the east gable and many
small windows, some mere slits, and has a more modern east wing of
two storeys. Remains of an older wall exist, on part of which this
wing appears to be built. The Mansion is surrounded by some fine
old trees (see sketch, page 102).

No date, initials, or carving of any kind is visible on the external
walls, but from its style, perhaps the third decade of the seventeenth
century may be prescribed as its date and when Alexander Cowan pur-
chased the estate. Alexander Cowan married Anna, daughter of Sir
John Stirling of Keir, and in their marriage contract he is designated
as of Wester Polmaise. He died precedent to his wife, and she by her
marriage contract was vested in the estate as survivor. She died in
1639, childless, and on 19th October of that year her brother, Archibald
Stirling of Garden, served himself heir to her in the estate which is
there called " Polmaise Cowan," and as being situated on the north
bank of the water of Bannockburn. Sir Archibald Stirling, who was a
senator of the College of Justice, succeeded also to Sir George Stirling
of Keir in the Keir estates on 15th August, 1667.

Sometime prior to 1777, John Stewart purchased this estate and
Mansion House, then called the Barony of Polmaise Cowan, along
with goose croft, clay croft, and Bolfornought. Being in difficulties,
he executed a trust deed, dated 27th August of that year, to John Hay,
accountant, but on 15th May, 1784, he gets re-assignation thereof from
his trustee, and he is designated then as of Stewart Hall — the name
having been changed by him. On 14th May, 1792, James Stewart
succeeds as heir of provision to John Stewart, son of Archibald Stewart,
his brother, on his disposition, dated 20th August, 1764; and on 19th
August, 1800, David Stewart, W.S., succeeds as heir of line and pro-

WESTER TOLMAISE OR STEWART HALL.

I05

vision to James, his brother, and the property is called the Barony of
Stewart Hall, formerly Polmaise Cowan.

The Mansion has remained in the Stewart family and still retains
their name. Dr. Rodgers identifies it as the tower in which the ill-
fated Lady Grange, in 1732, was detained for many months in strict
imprisonment, prior to her captivity in the Hebrides, having been
brought from Edinburgh by midnight stages. This incident is referred
to in Dr. Kenneth Macleays' Memoirs of Rob Roy, The description of
the fabric exactly corresponds to this tower at the period of her im-
prisonment, which was from 22nd April to 15th August, 1732, and she
was thence carried to Callendar, blindfolded, on horseback. Her hus-
band, Lord Grange, a senator of the College of Justice, being a Jacobite,
feared that his wife (a woman of violent temper), who had learned
their secrets, might compromise him and other noblemen similarly
involved. The Keir family, the owners of the Mansion at that time,
were also Jacobites, and hence may have given the use of the tower.

A small, grey granite tombstone was, in 1899, sent by the Earl of
Mar to mark the grave of that ill-fated lady in the old churchyard of
Trumpin at Waternish, Skye, where she was interred by her husband.

HiiiiSHiiS

11,1,11.111 JIIH. 'mill

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CHAPTEtt A.

Robert SpittaFs Mansion, Coldoch.

^^PITTAL'S philanthropy, especially in bridge building, extended
^-^ to the Brig of Doune. The above sketch of the tablet and the
inscription still upon it, with quaint lettering and phraseology, makes it
interesting. It contains in addition the Spittal arms, which are "an
eagle displayed, sable membered, and armed gules between three
crescents of the base, and his implement of trade."

IN GOD IS AL MY TRAST
QOD SPITTEL THE X,
DA OF SEPTEMBER IN
THE ZEIR OF GOD IM
VXXXV ZEIRS FUN

DID WES THIS BRIG
BE ROBERT SPITTEL
TAILZOR TO ijE MAIST
NOBLE PRECES MARGARET
SPOVS TO KING JAMES Y FEIRDx

King James "the Feird " was a generous monarch to the " ser-
vant of the Queen's Grace," as on 14th August, 1513, he conveys to
him the lands of Easter Coldoch in the Lordship of Menteith, ex-
tending, etc., and to his heirs male, whom failing, to heirs female, the
eldest succeeding without division, the lands being astricted to the King's

IOS ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

Mills ; and an obligation on Robert Spittal to build a mansion with
hall, chamber, barn and yard, byres, stables, garden, and other neces-
sary furnishings. In implement of the terms of this obligation of his
holding, no doubt, the present old mansion was built by him.

There is a specially interesting previous history connected with
these lands — the Royal property — referring to the finding of the
Army chest and ^4000 in gold coins, hid after the fatal battle of
Sauchieburn by James Ill.'s Treasurer, and discovered by Walter
Symson on the field of Sauchie, who gets on 24th January, 1489, from
James IV., a charter for his lifetime, inter alia, of parts of Coldoch
called " Donald Youngstons " and " Wattie Smethistons," as a reward.
It is stated thus : — "pro suo servicio et recuperacine cujusdam, boxe
quarto millium, librarum auri, monetati, et cujusdam gladii quondum
Regis Roberti Bruce in bello propre de Strivling, in die Sancti Barnabe."
James III. seems to have carried his royal ancestor Robert the Bruce's
sword to the field as a talisman. The battle was subsequently known
as "the field of St. Barnabas day."

The Mansion (see sketch opposite page), is situated on the banks
of a stream, and on the ridge of land overlooking the wide plain of
Kincardine Moss, and in full sight of Stirling Castle. The old part
consists of a square two storey house, with an east wing, all having
crow-stepped gables, a large turret staircase on the north, with
ancient door, the original front. The ground floor consists of two
large vaulted chambers, each 15 feet square, with the great height
of ceiling of 16 feet, and walls 4 feet thick, the upper flat and
attics, a labyrinth of passages and small rooms, mere closets with
narrow stone passages and stairs. The window jambs, soles, and
lintels of older part of building are broad circular mouldings, and the

ROBERT SPITTAL S MANSION, COLDOCH. 1 I I

turret staircase had probably the old clock, the old-fashioned iron
works of which were, with some old oak carving, found in an outhouse.

The ancient stables and outhouses have been extensive, and a
large garden and some very old timber adjoin.

On March 31, 1558, Robert Spittal having died childless, his
nephew, Master Nicolanius, Burgess of Edinburgh, succeeded to
Easter Coldoch, as his heir male.

A Finlay Spittal, evidently a relation, in 1537 seems to have been
in possession of the neighbouring parts of Wester Spittalton of Cessen-
tully, and sold it to a Robert Done. Robert Spittal is a witness to
King James V.'s charter of confirmation of the title to him.

In this connection an older two storey farm-house called Spittal-
ton, still used as a dwelling close by, was alleged to be that occupied
before the present mansion by Robert Spittal.

When the estate was acquired by Mr. Graham in 1828, he greatly
altered and added to the old Mansion House, and affixed his coat-
of-arms over a new entrance made on the south side ; but much of
the old house remains in its entirety.

About five hundred yards west of the Mansion is a very finely
preserved small ancient broch of 30 feet within its walls, which are of
uncemented stones 15 feet thick, and having galleries or burrows in
them. It is included in Dr. Anderson's Brocks and Forts of Scotland.

.N?3.

CHAPTER Al.

Spittal's, or Nether
Hospital.

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P*HE only buildings now representing" this Hospital are a house
* in Spittal Street (No. 82) and the Trades' Hall, with their
inscriptions as afternoted.

The Spittal Street house (sketch, Shaw of Sauchie), formerly Sir
James Shaw of Salky's, between the King's Hie Gait on the north, and
the gait called the Back Raw on the south, was conveyed in favour of
" Robert Spittal, servant to the Queen's Grace," and was retained by
him and used by the Patrons of the Mortification he founded as an
Alms House or Hospital. Frequent reference is made in the Town's
Records to the Alms House in the Friars' Yaird, and there is no doubt
of the identity of this house as Spittal's Hospital property, and it bears
evidences of its antiquity. Robert Spittal had properties in various
parts of the town, and in 1527, the death-bed declaration of Gilbert
Johenson on his question to him of " Gudeman, it is said that ye
murmur me sayand I have doune ye gret wrangis in the bigin on your

ii4

ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

ground,'' and the said Gilbert answered, " I sa na thing of ye bot ye
are ane gud nebour," shews he was then building. He also acquired
Johenson's property on 19th November, 1 541 , from James V., who,
for his good services, inter alia, grants to him the land and tenement
in the Burgh between his (Spittal's) lands, the lands of Walter, the
place of the Fratrum Minorum (et viciwi regium) King's High
Street, which belonged to Robert Johensoun, son and heir of the late
Gilbert Johensoun, escheat to the King by Robert Johensoun absenting
himself in England for fourteen years. The other property given
belonged to Robert M 'Clere, was also adjacent, and forfeited for similar
absence. These properties are on the south side of the street, while
Robert Spittal's house, above referred to, is on the north side.

^___ The Spittal Street house, the original

appearance of which has been completely
changed within recent years by the removal
of the turnpike and dormer windows, bears
an old inscription with date 1530. The
appearance of this stone and quaint lettering
points to its execution about that period,
and no doubt refers to Spittal's original
Almshouse.

The Masters of Hospital were ap-
pointed to furnish coats and breeches to
the weekly pensioners, and a pew in
the loft of the parish church was allotted to them. They were
subject to a strict supervision by the Kirk Session apparently, as on
25th March, 1628, they record: "William Meassoune, puirman in the
Hospital, compeared, and being accused for not wearing of his livery,

l%r his hovs is Fo

3&flt ND IT FOR SV?/-
>%P ORTOFTrEP/"'
alfHRIBF- R OB ERT.SPJT

i*STALT l& iWfiX

jjBPkF^

SPITTAL S, OR NETHER HOSPITAL.

and not keiping of the Kirk, and for his drunkeness, and for wanting
his mark off his Gowne sleife, is ordained giffened he be seen awanting
his own Gowne, or drunk, or out of the Kirk, or wanting his mark
(badge), he should loose his place;" and on 19th December, 1608,
"The Maister of the Hospital was ordered not to pay the Beidmen
their rents and portions except they make actual residence within the
Hospital House."

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The Trades' Hall (sketch above) also bears an inscription
claiming to be erected in honour of Robert Spittal. It was built, as
the keystone of the porch doorway shows, in 1 75 1 , and is a one-storey
house, superiorly built for its period, forming a hall of 36 ft. by 25 ft.

ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY

The porch (sketch page 113) is of ancient rustic work, the lintel being
one immense stone, and the finishing of window jambs and lintels is in
fine masonry. The hall contains a sculptured stone chimneypiece of
the period, 8 ft. by 5^ ft., and a marble tablet with inscription. The
west outer wall bears the tablet and inscription as shown in the sketch
below, but otherwise the building has no historical interest.

1..1A n ricrP LcOT 'Id.TTAi |l"*> A S

ErectedJnKonovr Of Robert SpjTtall *>£

lAyLflRTo^lNdjAMEpTHE FWRTtf ^^|

Don or Of th e Hos pita l Im Th i s B v r a K ^ J

For f?£u ihf Of Decked Trade SME'iyf-^^'1,

beralMan,.De-vjseth Liberal s

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CHAPTER All.

31ms House.

IN the Close No. 78 on the north side of Baker Street, just below
the entry to the Boy's Industrial School, formerly John Don's
house, and what was anciently a court with numerous small properties,
known as " Bell's Close," is a remarkable old two-storey building with
a tower and square front gable. It is a small building, 32 ft. by 19 ft.
broad, and walls 2\ ft. thick, with a high pitched roof, had only two
narrow windows in the upper storey and two small windows and a
narrow door to the vaulted appartments forming the ground floor, in
the front only, and a small circular window at the back. The entrance
doorway in the tower, built of free stone in courses, is now built up, and
had finely moulded jambs and lintels. A deep moulding about mid
height surrounds the tower and is carried across the front elevation,
giving a striking character to the building. The original windows have
all been splayed. The limited light, and that only in front, and small

i iS

ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

accommodation of the building points to its being one large room, while

a small turret stair behind indicates access to one or two apartments in

., -v- - -_ the roof. It seems not built with conveniences

',y*msk», ""^"Tji^j^a _ suitable for the accommodation of a family, and

suggests strongly the idea cf an institution or hall.

In the wall of an adjacent modern house is

inserted an ancient coat of arms (sketch, p. 122),

and above the doorway, in a wing attached to the

above School, is inserted another (sketch, heading),

both of which are alleged to have been taken

from this building when recently repaired. The

~r.^Jy^_!^^r)~\ present proprietors 01 this property having no

S'^^^$^Mi^~- title-deeds referring to it, we have had recourse
""■ *^sJ3ll^ to the title-deeds of the two properties adjoining

and marching, the special distinctive character of such a building being
certain to be used as a boundary mark. From the register, we trace
" Lawrie's Turnpike " to a William Callander whose creditors adjudged
it, on 2 1 st November, 171 7, to the Deacons of the Seven Incorporated
Trades, along with a tenement at the head of the Middle Raw, and
they were infeft in it on 19th December, 1730. It is described as that
tenement called " Lawrie's Turnpike " and as being on the east of
D. Esplain's tenement, with the High Street (Baker Street) on the
south. This makes it clear that Lawrie's Turnpike faced the street,
and is some yards farther east from the position of this building, which
did and does not come near the street, a large ancient building inter-
vening.

Bell's Close, originally a large court with several tenements in it,
was bit by bit absorbed by Mr. Don into the grounds fronting and

ALMS HOUSE. I 2 I

surrounding his then new mansion, and the entry, or approach, thereto
was also widened, the Town Council relieving him of the church
annuals with which these absorbed properties were burdened "for his
encouragement in the building of a spacious Ludging at the head of
Bell's Close and the wings at the entry thereto."

One of these pieces of ground so acquired by Don was originally
exchanged by contract of excambion between the Masters of the
Nether Hospital and John Wordie of Cambusbarron, dated ist Novem-
ber, 171 2, described "as also including the yaird adjacent to the old
hotise called the Trades Meeting House or Alms House" with, etc., as
the same was possessed by John Allan, etc." (Sketch opposite).

Some confounding of identity of the names " Trades Meeting
House "and the Lawrie House purchased from Callander's creditors
is apparent, but apparent only, as when this building was named as
such, Lawrie's Turnpike was not acquired by the Incorporated Trades
until five years after this date, and it retains its very ancient and dis-
tinctive name in the Trades' conveyance then obtained. The explana-
tion, therefore, seems that after being used as an alms house, the
Trades had used the hall, or large room, as their meeting house until
they acquired Lawrie's Turnpike, when their meetings were transferred
to these premises.

One of the coats of arms (if such either may be called) consists of
two shields, with floral carvings ; the other is a plain shield, sup-
ported by two naked children, having each in the one hand a long
band or garment, and in the other what appears to be an apple, with
two cherubs hovering over and protecting them — specially applicable
to the shelter given by a sympathetic Town Council, in 1652, "to
certain puir bairns greeting and crying nichtlie under the stairs for

I "* 2

ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY

fault of ludging," who order a weekly laid of coals to be put into the
"alms house for them during- the winter."

The other coat of arms carry nothing to identify their owner, but
may probably have come from Lawrie's Turnpike. As the older Alms
House was, previous to 1641, "converted for want of maintenance
into ane minister's manse," its erection may be attributed to about
that date, and the present condition and weather effects upon the stones
would bear out that age. The present building, while retaining its
main and important architectural features, has undergone considerable
alterations, a new roof replacing the higher pitched one, and the under
vaulting- and tower being filled up with the rubbish. Its design is
similar to the remains of Forrester of Logie's and Stirling of Keir's
Ludgings, but that does not alter our opinion that it was not originally
a ludging or living house, but an alms house or hospital.

CHAPTER XIII.
Part 1.

Sdam Spittal of Blairlogie.

PHE Town House or Ludging in Stirling of Adam Spittal of
* Blairlogie we ascertain from the boundaries in a contract of lease,
dated ist April, 1592, between that town and James Menteith of
Randifurde of the "South Brae" to have been the east house adjacent
to John Bruce of Auchenbowie's mansion, popularly known as " Bog-
hall " or " Boglehall," at the head of St. John Street, Stirling. A mere
glimpse of it, or its site, is seen in an old drawing of the Parish Manse
of 1820, which is situated adjacent to it. It has an outside stair and
railing. (Sketch above).

':SWK0^%

- ' iSfj <

Part 2.

Blairlogie Castle.

ilS whitewashed, small, baronial
Mansion of the early sixteenth
century is L shaped, and situated on a
spur of the Ochils overlooking the hamlet
of that name. From its two irregular
shaped towers, a pair of ancient Scots firs,
and the backing of a steep mountain, it is
a picturesque feature of the Carse of Stirling. It is on a partially
artificial terrace, 10 feet high on its south and east, and is bounded on
the latter side by a mountain torrent issuing from Warrick Glen. The
approach to it is by a precipitous pathway and bridge over the torrent,
and its situation is of great natural strength. The three dormer
windows bear respectively a fleur de lis and initials A. S., a thistle
and initials E. H., and a man's head, or rose, and date 15 13 (year of
Flodden) or 1543. The walls are very thick, windows narrow and
barred, and the rooms small and low in the ceiling. The plateau
immediately on its north side, called "Castlelaw," implies its use by
the Barons' Court. It is alleged a cabinet in the upper apartments

d
d

•j

BLAIRLOGIE CASTLE.

127

concealed a small door, opening by a secret spring, giving access to
the turret and roof. On the oaken beams, some
years ago laid bare, appeared a series of floral
decorations in colours common in the seven-
teenth century. The wing forming the small
arm of the L was said to be added in 1582.

The building is typical of country mansions
of the early sixteenth century, replacing the
tower, built for strength only, by giving more^jjj
domestic conveniences and less discomforts, while
containing provision for defence from casual |\-
marauders.

The date 15 13 (or 1543) and the initials occasion a difficulty, as
no owner at the period of either of these dates have names corres-
ponding to them. Colonel Hare, the present proprietor, states them
to represent Adam Spittal and Ellen Holbourne, his wife, and 1513,
but, unfortunately, these are inconsistent with the registers, which shew
that the proprietor on 2nd November, 15 13, and for many years there-
after, was a James Spetaile. The agents of Lord Balfour, the former
proprietor, state that the old titles could throw no light on the dis-
crepancy or verify the above. There was, however, an Alexander
Spittal proprietor about 1543.

The lands of Blairlogie, along with Logie, Raploch, and Craig-
forth, were crown possessions, and awarded by Act of Scots Parlia-
ment as part of the dower of Marie, Queen to the young King
James II., on their marriage, and in which she was infeft on 1st
July, 14*51.

128

ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

The property remained in the possession of
the Spittal family until the death of James
Spittal, of Blairlogie, laird of Leukheite, when
it passed to the Dundas family, in virtue of a
marriage contract between his daughter, Eliza-
beth Spittal, and Robert Bruce Dundas, of Blair,
dated 8th July, 1796, his widow, Frances Innes,
^iT having an annuity of ^200 secured over it.
The Dundas family sold it to Lord Balfour's
ancestors, and it is now owned by Colonel Hare.
The ancient Kirk of Logie, with the date
of 1598 on it, replacing an older pre- Reformation church, and its
very ancient burying ground, should contain the remains of the
members of the Spittal family, but not a single tombstone referring
to them is to be found.

"* ^sijr (,,;

CHAPTER A1V.
Part 1 .

'^M^fi

Robert Callander's Stirling
Ludging,

which only the site is ascertained from an
Instrument granted by the Provost of
Stirling on 28th February, 1536-7, in aug-
mentation of the provisions for serving the
altar of St. Katherine in the parish church of Stirling (of which the
Town Council were patrons) by gifts of the common waste land situated
on the north side of the choir. The boundaries are described as
"between the stile of the passage leading to the north entrance of the
said choir on the south side, on the one part, and the tenement of
Robert Callander of Manor on the said north side, on the other part,
etc. The waste ground and Robert Callander's tenement were acquired
and incorporated by John, sixth Earl of Mar, in the site upon which he
erected his mansion or ludging, in 1570, at the head of Broad Street.
No vestige of the tenement therefore exists.

Part 2.

The Nanor.

~"*HIS Mansion, situated on the Pow or Pool and close to the river
* Forth, was entire in 1850 when the sketch (page 135) was taken.
It is an example of the Scottish Baronial style of the second period.
A coat of arms hewn on a stone above the entrance through the tower,
contains the initials of Robert Callander and his wife (R. C. and M.R.)
and the date 1572. It had then begun to fall into ruin, and now
consists of a mere fragment of the west gable and a few stones of the
side walls. The old yew tree survives. (Sketch above).

,5ti

v , V-*.! 'J I ■ ' _,^-, ?• i.

\vS>'M

CALLANDER OF MANOR. 133

The Mansion, a single house in depth, consisted of a main building
and wino- running- on same lines with it, formed of regular ashlar courses
of freestone, was 50 feet by 18 feet in breadth (the wing a little less),
and had walls 2^ feet thick, and gables 3 feet thick. The east wall
verged on the pow, up to which the tide flows (navigable at high water
for very small vessels), and close to the well known broad Manor ford
over the Forth. The windows (soles, jambs, and lintels) are all deeply
splayed and arched internally. The large fire-place, with its moulded
lintel, 7 feet by 1^ feet broad, has a circular recess like a piscina entirely
inside on the right hand of the north jamb. The ruined dovecot, the
invariable accompaniment of such mansions, stands a few yards west-
ward, and both are now left isolated in the midst of a field of ploughed
land. The stone with coat of arms we found lovingly cared for at the
neighbouring farm by the lady tenant. The origin of the name King's
Pow House, or Poolhouse, we cannot trace.

Robert Callander, called also of Powhouse, was, in 1502, proprietor
not only of Manor, but of Lepnoch and Ashentriull in the valley of the
Ochils, formerly called Menstrie Glen. He was a gentleman of posi-
tion and consequence at the Courts of James IV. and V., and appears
frequently as a witness to the king's signature of charters executed at
Stirling Castle. The above several lands, with Logy, Blairlogie,
Cornton, etc., formed the Barony of Cornton, and were held off Dame
Anna Bisset, Lady Harden (superioress), as heiress of Lord Dirleton,
who seems to have derived them from the Crown, as they were
formerly held off the Nunnery of North Berwick.

A somewhat awkward family episode is recorded as occurring in
1509, wherein Robert Callander's daughter, Isabella, supplanted Jean
Elphinston, a daughter of Lord Elphinston, who was betrothed to

134 ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

James Kinross. A bond of contract for the fulfilment of the marriage
between them was entered into by their respective fathers, John
Kinross and Lord Elphinston, the former pledging his Mill of Kippen-
ross for the due implement of the marriage contract by his son.
For the slight to Lady Jean, a feud may have ensued between the
families. Whether the provision of the bond was exacted and the Mill
forfeited, history does not say ; but on the part of the Callander family
this feud seems healed by the marriage of Robert Callander, a son, to
Katherine Elphinston, another daughter. On 3rd January, 1525, both
he and Katherine obtain a charter of confirmation from James V. of the
lands of Manor, wherein they are described as "commonly called the
Kingis Pullis ; " and on 8th August, 1528, James V., with consent of
his mother, Queen Margaret, confirms to " Robert Callander de Maner
et Katherine Elphinston, lands of Halls, of Erth, etc., and lands and
village of Skeoch, to which she had succeeded and brought to him."

On her husband's death, Katherine Elphinston, on 25th August,
1542, being designed as spouse of the late Robert Callander, is con-
firmed by the king in liferent, and her son, Alexander Callander, in fee,
in the lands of Delangry and Westerton of Bothkennar; and by another
charter at the same time, the king confirms the widow further in life-
rent, and another son, James Callander, in fee, of her lands in Airth.
In a further Crown charter, dated 1568, a Walter Callander, as witness
to the king's signature, is designed as brother-german to Robert
Callander de Manor; and on 7th February, 1586, in a charter by the
commendator of Culross Abbey to him (Walter) of the lands of Bordie,
he is designed as brother-german of the late Robert Callander de Maner.

From these writs the family of old Robert Callander apparently
consisted of four sons — Robert, Alexander, James and Walter. Robert

CALLANDER OF MANOR. 1 35

succeeded at his father's death, about 1542, to Manor, and died previous
to 1 581. Alexander, as second son, was the heir of his mother, but
she divided her dower lands between him and his brother James, as
above, reserving her liferent. Walter got Bordie (in Fifeshire)
evidently under another deed.

Since writing the above we have formal authentic evidence of this
by letter of redemption dated 28th July, 1576, and a deed dated
nth May, 1 58 1. By the former, a Michael Gilbart, goldsmith,
acknowledges that " ane honorable man, Robert Kallendar of ye
Maner," has infeft him in an annual rent of ten merks, to be
"uplifted and tane of ye said lands of Maner;" and by the other his
wife is designed "ane honerabill woman, Margaret Reid, relict of
umquhill rob. Callander of Manner," he having died betwixt these dates.
This letter of redemption of a wadset is of interest as describing a
very ancient custom of redemption. Here it is specified to be made
by payment of 100 merks "at the kirk of Stirling," and failing
Gilbart's compearance to receive it there, to be consigned in the hands
of the " Provost, Baillies, and Deacons of the Gild of Stirling," who
were lawfully appointed to receive it and discharge the burden. It is
possible this debt was incurred to defray part of the costs of the
erection of the mansion four years previously.

This Mansion seems, therefore, to have been built by Robert
Callander, the son, whose initials, with those of his wife, Margaret
Reid, and the date of erection, 1572, appear on the coat of arms. The
coat of arms (page 140) contains on the dexter side that of " Callendar
of Meyners," {Pout's MS.) sable, a bend betwixt six billets Or, and the
initials R. C. ; and on the sinster side that of Read, a buck's head
erased sa bisantee, and initials M. R. This is the special crest of
Read of Kingstead, Norfolk, and the lady may be of that family.

I ;6 ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

Robert Callander, the son, dying without issue, a nephew, John,
succeeded, probably by entail, to Lupnoch, Lessentriull, and Manor ;
and at his death, his son Robert succeeded thereto, and also to the
said lands of Kingis Po House, which were, with other lands in
Polmont, described as situated in the Regality of the Monastery of
the Holy Cross, near Edinburgh.

Dame Anna Bisset pledged the superiority of the Barony of
Cornton, including" Manor, Polehouse, Log-ie, and Blairlogjie, in warran-
dice of her conveyance of the lands of Dirleton.

The lands and Manor-place, reduced to a medium farm, seem to
have passed from the Callander family, about 1622, to a Menteith,
from whom they were acquired by the Dundas family, about 1628.
In 1754, John Dundas placed them under the fetters of an entail, and
the last heir of entail, Ralph Peter Dundas, dying in 1828 without
issue, the succession was taken up by his cousin, James Dundas, of the
city of Philadelphia, barrister, a domiciled citizen of the United States,
being born there after the Treaty of Independence. On his title to
succession being challenged by the next heir of entail Lieut. -Colonel
Thomas Dundas, the Court of Session decided that he was incapable
from alienage to inherit Manor ; and it was thereafter disentailed and
sold by Edward Thomas Dundas, a successor of Colonel Dundas, to
Mr. John Dawson. In his disposition, dated 30th November, 1877,
the lands are called "the lands of Kino's Powhouse, alias Mannor,
or Manor, with the Manor Place, houses," etc., and the teinds, par-
sonage, and vicarage, and the salmon fishings in the Water of Forth,
pertaining to Manor, " with such liberty and use thereof as umquhile
Robert Callander and his predecessors had of old time by past," lying
within the parish of Logie and sheriffdom of Perth.

CALLANDER OF MANOR.

The lands are held direct off the Crown, but the feu duty is, with
nearly all the Cornton lands, paid to the Earl of Mar, these having
been gifted to his family by the Crown.

The Callander family, after parting with their property, seem to
have rapidly retrograded in the world. Several of their descendants
occupied cottages in its vicinity for many subsequent years, their names
appearing in the parish registers, such as : — " 1699, May 5, Isabella
Callander in Manor dies; 1708, September 16, died Robert Callander
of Manor; 1713, also dies a son of the Laird of Manner's ; 17 16, a
child of William Callander of Maner ; and, 9th April, 1724, a lass of
William Callander of Manner," etc.

tS^WSs^l^lltMMlllltWWff/Wri'W'**^^*""**4

l^rffiKil'ijg

CHAPTER AV.
Part 1.

Callander of Craigforth.

IOHN CALLANDER of Craigforth s Town House or Ludging
*^ was situated in Baker Street, and was sold by him, in 1767, to
a John Dollar, mason, when it is then described to be in ruins. Dollar
rebuilt the house, which is that many-windowed building, Nos. 93, etc.,
on south side of Baker Street. It bears a tablet with the above date,
1767. It appears to have been the ancient Town House attached to
Craigforth estate as, in 1 544, Lady Craigforth is resident in this quarter,
viz., " Belgebrig and aine pairt beneath."

^P^~w'

> n^ck^i^Qfro~-n^

tfL.

Part 2.

Old Craigforth.

£ RAIGFORTH, anciently Craggorth, Craignorth, etc., belonged
to, and was enumerated amongst, King Robert the Bruce's lands
in 1329. The estate seems then to have consisted of the Rock and a
considerable extent of level lands, yielding a good revenue. Robert II.,
in 1 38 1, gives a charter of confirmation to William More and his heirs,
whom failing, to William de Lindsay and Cristaine, his spouse, whom
failing, to others, of the greater part of the estate ; and Robert, Duke
of Albany, burdens the crown portion, in 141 7, with an annual rent of
20 merks, for a chaplain to the chapel of St. Michael the Archangel in
Stirling Castle, to pray " for the souls of Robert and David de Bruce,
and Margaret and Murielle, their wives." James II. pledged it, along
with other royal lands, as a security in his marriage contract, for a

CALLANDER OF CRAIGFORTH. 141

provision of ^"5000 to his consort Maria, which is dated 1st July, 145 1 ;
and shortly thereafter he burdened it with an annual rent of 10 merks
to an Archibald Newton de Dalcove, evidently in discharge of some
obligation, or for services rendered by Newton.

The Crag, the part of the estate retained in the Royal hands, was
used by James IV., who was a keen sportsman, for his hawks, which
were kept there under the charge of a woman, although he had two
falconers, John of Callander, and Knox. Accordingly we have entries
in the Lord Treasurer's Accounts, on 24th June, 1496, of payments
"to the wyf that kepit the Crag of Craggor.th," and "the wyf that
kepit the King's hawks."

To the other section of the estate, John, Lord Lindsay, succeeded
to his ancestor William, who, in 1497, was in turn succeeded by his
brother Patrick. Patrick sold the lands, along with portions of Erth
(Airth), to John Elphinston de Pittendreich on 8th November, 1497.
James IV. burdened the royal part with the support of two chaplains
to the Church of St. Ninians "the Confessor," in 1500, and, in 1504,
further mortified it for 20 merks for a chaplain to the Castle chapel.

The Elphinston family were favourites of the King, and James IV.,
for John Elphinston's good services and the King's special friendship,
incorporated the various lands of Craigforth, Chuirmyrelands, and Pit-
tendreich into the Barony of " Elphinston Gerere," — the Royal lands
being then probably added to them. On 14th September, 1507,
Alexander, created first Lord Elphinston, succeeded his father Sir John,
and he and his spouse, Elizabeth Barley (Barlow), an English lady,
and the favourite maid of honour of James' consort, are confirmed in
the Barony, which included " the Mill of Craigforth, fishings on the
Water of Forth, with the cruives and the 'the stank,' or dam, over

142 ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OE STIRLING NOBILITY.

against his lands." On 15th January, 1553, Mary Queen of Scots,
on the narrative of Lord Alexander's death (killed at Flodden with
James IV.), and that his son Robert was then a minor (2 years old),
while the titles given to him by her father, James V., in consequence
of the disturbed times, were either destroyed or lost, granted anew the
Barony to Robert, Lord Elphinston, and Margaret Drummond, his
spouse.

This estate continued thereafter in the Elphinston family down to
about 1675, when Craigforth was purchased by John Callander. The
family residence, however, was always at Elphinston Castle on the
Airth part of their estate. John Callander was succeeded by his son
James, an Advocate, who died in March, 1728, and the estate then
passed to his son, who in turn was succeeded by his son James, who,
under his marriage contract, dated 5th February, 1791, infefts his
spouse, Dame Elizabeth Helena, in parts of the estate (Old Mills,
Langside, Kaimes, and Falleninch). James becoming insolvent in
1796, his creditors held the estate, and the record shews their proceed-
ings ; but ultimately it was recovered or retained, and his creditors
settled with, and it now remains in his descendants' possession.

The tradition of the estate having been purchased by the King's
smith, named Callander, from the excess of money for his account for
work at Stirling Castle — received in Sterling when only charged in
Scots currency — is very doubtful. It receives some corroboration, how-
ever, from the following entries in the Treasurer's Accounts, viz. : —

"4th March, 1675. — Payed to John Callander, smith, for ironwork, ^84 3 o
" Payed more to the said John Callander for

more ironwork, ... ... ... ... 11811 o"

The name and date correspond to that of John Callander's acquisition
of Craigforth,

V.*.^*

ft fM ,' '^i " v

, ,v'ff jifc; f- — '

mm' ^

6
■J

CALLANDER OF CRAIGFORTH.

The present Mansion has been at several periods altered and
added to, and its oldest parts certainly do not go beyond the Callander
acquisition in 1675. It bears no date, initials, or crest, but, as we
satisfied ourselves from enquiries on the spot that no tradition of any
ruins which mio^ht be ascribed to an older mansion on the rock was
ever discovered, except those forming the foundation walls (about 2 ft.
thick) of a simple cottage, the erection must be put to John Callander,
about 1675. The foundations of this cottage were laid bare on digging
a trench for a drain some 20 years ago, and as the walls ran at right
angles across the avenue — the only access to the Mansion house — the
cottage must have existed and been demolished prior to the Mansion's
erection and formation of the avenue. The situation pointed out is
close to where the ancient Highway from Stirling to the ford over the
Forth touches the lower edge of the rock, and in full view of Stirling
Castle. It is more than probable they were the foundations of the

Old Xuu.i

\JUL.

146

ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

dwelling of " the wyf that kepit the King's hawks and the Crag of
Cragforth," in 1496. This ancient Highway runs in a straight line with
the old Clay Tollhouse in perfect preservation for 500 or 600 yards, is
30 feet broad, and bounded on each side by a bank and ditch and a
row of trees. It is probably part of the old Roman Road.

In addition to the " Auld Mills," the Callander family owned the
Mill at Kildean, which contains the date 1760, what appears to be a
coat of arms (a lion's head and two horses' heads as supporters), a
winged figure, and another sculpture covered over. Sketches of the
Mill in 1855 and the figures are given. The identity of the coat of
arms is not ascertainable, and might apply to Murray, Lord Elibank,
and been brought from a neighbouring- building.*' We also give an old
sketch (page 140) of Craigforth Mansion in the fifties.

From the Burgh Records, John Callander appears, in 1695, and
again in 171 7, litigating with the town of Stirling as to alleged encroach-
ments on their fishings; and what is termed a "Fishers' Court" was
convened at the Cruives, where the Magistrates and Mr. Callander met
to settle the dispute. These fishing rights were a fruitful source of dis-
pute between the proprietor of Craigforth, Abbot of Cambuskenneth,
and town of Stirling.

* Note. — Sir J. Balfour Paul, to whom these sketches were submitted, states that they are not
armorial, but mere architectural embellishments.

CHAPTEB AVI.
Part 1.

Wester Livilands.

f OMMISSARY Robert Murray's Town House stood in what
^" was a very large court entering" off Baker Street, called " Bell's
Close," then occupied by various small tenements and gardens, which
were, from time to time, absorbed by Sheriff Clerk Don in his large
self-contained ludging, which with its court and extensive garden,
formerly occupied by the National Bank, is presently taken up by
the Boys' Industrial School.

14$ ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

This ludging and Wester Livilands were succeeded to by his son,
John, who, in a Precept of Clare Constat by the Magistrates of Stirling,
dated 6th November, 1669, is acknowledged as heir to his father,
Robert Murray, Commissary of Stirling, "in that tenement of land in
Bell's Close, and orchard thereto belonging."

The sketch (page 147) is of the oldest tenement now existing in
that court, and if not Murray's, is interesting otherwise as an unusual
type of an old dwelling-house.

-» ♦

Part 2.

Wester Livilands Mansion

I S (or rather was, as it is now removed) a long, two-storey, white-
washed, plain, single house (sketch opposite), of one room in
breadth, 50 by 20 feet, and with walls 2^ feet thick, which had been
erected across the neck of a miniature spur 60 feet above the level of
the Carse, and approached by a broad avenue of old trees. It is
apparently upon the site of an older building, some traces of which
were visible, and in a position of strength, a recognised principle in
residences of the mediaeval ages, for which its situation was suitable.
The north wing seems modern. The rest of the spur behind was the
garden.

A modern porch covers the original doorway, with its simple
floriated scroll mouldings, but otherwise, no noticeable architectural
features, initials, date, coat of arms, or carved stone are visible ; and

i i

WESTER LIVILANDS MANSION.

151

the construction of the house was shown to be of the poorest work.
It is alleged the date 1629 is on its walls, but this must refer to the
painted date and initials, M.R. M., on the panelling of a concealed
closet, representing " Master Robert Murray," and which, it is said,
contained also the initials of C.C., his wife.

The concealed closet, the subject of interest, entered off the
second floor passage, the door to which
was concealed by a subsequently erected
wooden stair to the attics. It is 10 by
6 feet in length, with a window facing the
east, 4 ft. 8 in. in height, while the south
side is formed by a wooden pannelling,
having as a freize a series of seven sibylline
heads, with their accompanying rhyming
prophecies, in black letter, and the remain-
ing side walls painted imitation oak to
correspond thereto, making a complete little
ornamented chamber. Two quaint, small
presses exist in the west wall. This closet,
as shewn by the painted beams forming the
ceiling of the south and adjoining room,
and revealed in taking down the building,
had originally been part of the south room, and had been formed by
simply running the panel across that room. Under the wooden stair a
small, press-like opening near the floor, sufficient for a man to creep
through to the door, was visible. In the gable of the south apartment,
part of which wall was apparently older and thicker than the others,
behind each of the shutters of the window were concealed doors having-

152 ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

locks ^sketch, page 151). That on the right and nearest the fire-place
gave access to a lined recess, 3 feet broad and 1 5 inches deep, open to
the attics, and sufficient to hold a man ; and the recess by the concealed
door under the left shutter, was 2 by 2 feet — two most artfully contrived
places of concealment.

The backs of the sibylline panels, which formed the north
partition of this room, were painted flower subjects.

The history of the closet and of the sibyls, and their origin and
the circumstances surrounding their situation are given, and the heads
themselves beautifully reproduced, in an able article by Mr. Ross, in
Vol. xxxiii. of the Annual Reports of the Scottish Society of Anti-
quaries, to which the reader is referred ; but in it no notice is taken
of these concealed recesses.

The ancient paintings so revealed, of which we give sketch of one
pattern, are on three sides of the roughly hewn oak beams forming the
supports to the attic floor.

A similarly painted room exists in what is known as the "Colonel's
Close " in Culross, which is, undoubtedly, the chapel or oratory. The
females there are full-sized and painted similarly in distemper but on
a circular or waggon shaped, wooden roof, in panels, and with accom-
panying black letter moral precepts. The date on the dormer of this
chapel is 1597.

In Wilson's Memorials of Edinburgh, an apartment in Queen
Mary of Guise's Palace, an oratory having a similar arched or waggon
shaped ceiling, is decorated with painted devices in rich arabesques and
graceful designs of fruit, flowers, etc., and surrounding" panels with
inscriptions in Gothic letters, and the author adds, this species of
emblematic device was Q-reatlv in vogue in the sixteenth century.

WESTER LIVILANDS MANSION. 1 53

In 1629, the date of Charles I.'s reign, the Catholic religion
was proscribed under penalties, mass and other services having to be
conducted in secrecy. So general were these hidden observances
resorted to by Catholics in heart, outwardly professing the new religion,
that there came to be recognised in many of the highest class mansions
an apartment called the " Priest's hole." Reference is made in Pepys'
Diary to Charles I I.'s admission to him that after his defeat and flight
from Worcester, he was fain to eat a piece of bread and cheese from
a poor man's pocket, and at a Catholic house he lay a good while in
the priest's hole for privacy.

In an article in Stirling Observer of 14th September, 1899, I was
struck by the consensus of opinion formed by its writer with my own,
as to the object and uses of the closet and recesses. The description is
so much better expressed that I thankfully quote it : — " In the old
Catholic mansions existed a secluded part of the house, usually called
the chapel, where religious rites could be performed with the upmost
privacy, and close and handy was usually an artfully contrived hiding-
place, not only for the officiating priest to slip into in case of emergency,
but also where his vestments, sacred vessels, and altar furniture, could
be put away at a moment's notice." The writer also adds, " These
cunning priests' holes were invented and constructed by the Jesuit,
Nicolas Owen, who devoted the greater part of his life thereto, when
Catholic worship was illegal."

The situation, arrangement, and decoration of the closet (the
window facing the east), and the respective sizes and proximity of the
penetralia to it, completely answer to the improvised oratory or chapel
and to the priest's hole and receptacle for the altar vestments and
accessories of Catholic worship respectively.

154 ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

In January, 1629, we have Charles issuing letters to his Council
"concerning the insolent behaviour of some papistis," and regarding
Sir William Mentethe of Kerse's petition, instructing his Council,
" that within six months they (the papists) shall conforme themselves to
the New Religion, otherwayis they shall remove themselves out of that
our kingdom."

Commissary Murray, an officer of an ecclesiastical character, had
certain fees derivable from the churches within his jurisdiction, and
had relinquished those referring to certain churches assigned to the
Bishopric of Glasgow, receiving in return from James VI. (who had
appointed him when constituting the inferior ecclesiastical courts in
twenty-three towns) a small compensating pension. This fell into
arrears, and Charles I., on Mr. Murray lodging a claim therefor and
asking for a continuation of his pension, stated he was unwilling to
ratify any pension which had been locally assigned, but authorised him
to be paid the value thereof, the local pension itself to be paid into his
own exchequer.

The unerring evidence of stone and lime testify to the exercise of
a prohibited religion within Mr. Murray's mansion, notwithstanding his
official appointment, royal pension, and gifts to the parish church in the
interests of the new religion, and are explainable on no other grounds
whatever. Commissary Murray appears to have built this house.

In August, 1 65 1, General Monk had his residence in the mansion,
and within its walls was signed the capitulation of Stirling town and
castle. An entry for wines, pipes, and tobacco supplied on that occa-
sion " to Lieutenant-General Monk and the Balyeis," to the extent of
£9 6s. 8d. appears in the Treasurer's Books.

WESTER LIVILANDS MANSION.

155

Part of the estate, anciently named Loveylands and Levelands, was
sold to James Nathaniel Rind, whose creditors sold it to the Magistrates
of Stirling in December, 1785, who feued it out, and it is now occupied
by the several fine mansions of Springbank, Annfield, etc. The
mansion-house itself, with the remaining- lands, were retained in the
Murray family down to some twenty years ago, when Mr. James
Morrison acquired them, and they have since been sold to Mr. James
Drummond, who in the erection of his handsome mansion has had to
pull the old one down ; and now even its name is gone, he having
changed it to Westerlands.

^N3

j£>t. J/{a.*M,'<^ W<Ja^-cL-

CHAPTER AVII.
Part 1 .

Forresters of Logie Mansions.

"T*HESE two Ludgings, almost entire and both occupied, form the
* double corner tenement of Broad Street and St. Mary's Wynd,
Stirling, as shewn, with their respective special architectural character-
istics, on the two sketches and relative drawings. They belonged to

I58 ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OE STIRLING NOBILITY.

John Forrester and Neil Forrester of Logic In an Instrument of
Sasine, dated 1583, Neil Forrester is infeft as heir of his father John,
in "the tenement on the north side of the King's Hie Street, between
our Lady Vennell on the east, the tenement of Alexander Forrester of
Garden (the ruins of which were sold to and pulled down by the Cor-
poration of Stirling, and the present large tenement called " the Town's
New House " erected in its place) on the west, the tenement of the
deceased John Forrester of Logy (the house with the turret stair seen
from Broad Street pend, sketch opposite) on the north, and the King's
High Street (Broad Street) on the south. The dates of their erection
may be about 1 520, and they remained in the Forrester family until 1658.
The Mary Wynd house (sketch, page 157) was the Stirling Bank
which collapsed in 1820.

These ludQrin£s are the most com-
plete of the few mansions of the
Pjsi, nobility now left of the time of the
Court in Stirling Castle, but they are
divested of their former internal gran-
deur, being in the occupancy of a low
class of tenants.

The Forresters, an ancient, exten-
sive, and influential family, were all
related, and held amongst them the
local estates of Torwood, Garden, and
others, and for upwards of a century
filled the principal municipal offices of
provost, bailies, etc., of Stirling —
offices then coveted by the aristocracy
and landed gentry of the district.

r- ^;*

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*' (f^U

Part 2.

Forrester's
Logie Country Mansion Mouse.

I N an Instrument of Sasine, dated 31st May, 1634, Maister David
Forrester is confirmed by the King, as heir of James Forrester of
Logie, his father, in the lands and town of Logie, "cum prato et
domibus et horto ejusdem, ex orient ali latere torrentis de currentis juxta
ecclesiam de Logy, infra dominibus de Stirling" — being, "with the
meadow and house and garden of the same, on the east bank of the
running stream adjacent to the church of Logie, in the lordship of
Stirling." A house and yard formerly existed here, belonging to the
parish, in which the minister and schoolmaster lived, and which, in the
Report of a Commission, dated in 1627, was stated as having been set
in feu by the King, after the Reformation, to James Forrester of Logie,
" quilk," the Commissioners add, " is thocht cannot be law stand, seeing
it vas once belonging to the Kirk, and thair the ministeris and school
maisteris leive and dyit."

The site and foundation stone of this, the old manse, and thereafter
the country mansion of Forrester, as pointed out to me by the late
Mr. Troup, Clerk to the Dunblane Presbytery, is about 100 yards east
of the ruined church, and on the left hand of the footpath close to the
wall of the public road leading between the old and new churches, and
exactly corresponds to the Latin description in the above charter
(sketch, page 162). In the Crown Customers' Accounts of rents drawn

i6:

ANCIENT CASTLES AM) MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY

for 1 5 14, the '"lands of the meadow" are separately rented as a main
part of the subject, and must have been of considerable extent. A view
of the picturesque, ivy-clad old church of Logie, consisting- merely of

FORRESTERS LOGIE COUNTRY MANSION HOUSE. 1 6

the belfrey gable and two walls, is obtained from the spot. These
ruins bear on a south window sole the date 1598. The stone is
evidently placed there recently, and is not in its original position, but
I consider it the date of erection. This ruin does not represent the
pre- Reformation church, which was of larger extent, but the one erected
upon its foundations, and, probably, with many of its stones.

It is difficult to believe that these roofless, ivy-covered walls was
an existing church in the memory of a recent parishioner (Adam
Bennet), and its bell rang out the call to worship to the parish so recently
as 1820. Above the door in the ruined gable a tablet has been inserted,
with an elaborately sculptured coat of arms and motto, and also an
inscription that "this stone was removed from the manse in 1804."
The coat of arms, that of Douglas of Lochleven, with the substitution
of a celestial coronet for the ducal one, was a complete puzzle to con-
nect with the building, but ultimately traced to one of its ministers,
Alexander Douglas, a son of the famous Bishop Robert Douglas, an
alleged illegitimate son of George Douglas of Lochleven. The arms
with motto, " Jamais arriere" (" never behind "), and the winged heart,
was placed in the building of the manse in 1628.

On 31st March, 1673, James Forrester is infeft as heir of his
father David Forrester of Logy, the lands being described and bounded
as above, except that the old church is called " the parish church of
Logie."

A singular and striking illustration of the reckless regard of life
and lawless state of Scotland, even in James VI.'s good government,
is afforded in a record dated 15th July, 1595, when David Forrester
of Logie, who was married to Janet Alexander, an aunt of the Earl of
Stirling, had been foully slain by John Livingstone of Dunipace and

164

ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

seven others, servants of Livingstone, and his kinsman, Bruce of Airth.
A kind of Court of Assize was held by the Presbytery in the older
church to try the accused, when they were absolved. The widow,
along with her mother, dissatisfied, appeared in the High Court of
Edinburgh, and personally appealed to the judge for justice against the
accused. The result of this piteous appeal is not learned.*

The last member of this branch of the Forresters is referred to in
an entry in the Session Clerk's books: "31 Augt., 1722 — died Mr.
James Forrester, Laird of Logie, Advocate.''

* Note. — David Forrester of Logie was murdered at Falkirk, in 1595. when returning from Edin-
burgh, the Lairds of Dunipace and Airth being suspected, ns Forrester was a special friend of the Earl of
Mar, with whom they were at enmity. Mar ordered the body to be brought to Linlithgow, and thereafter,
with funeral pomp, having the portrait of the murdered man, wounded and bloody, as when found,
displayed on a white sheet, carried through Falkirk, an enemy's country. So great was the power of the
Livingstone and Elphinston families, who protected the murderers, their kinsmen, that the Earl failed to
bring them to justice.

*fW —

CHAPTER XVIII.
Part I.

Torwood Castle.

^1 ITU AT ED on the highest of several
^•^ wooded eminences on the south side
of the highway leading from Larbert to
Stirling, about 2\ miles distant from the
former town, and quite overlooking what
was formerly the Royal Forest of Torwood,
which is alleged to be a relic of the more
ancient and extensive Caledonian forest, is
a roofless mansion house of considerable
size and pretensions. It is termed a
castle, but it is destitute of the character-
istics applicable to a place of defence, and
is in no sense a stronghold. The ground
plan is the reversed letter |~. The main
buildings have been three storeys in height, and consisted of three plain
crow-stepped gabled houses of unequal height, and a square turret
stair. Two high walls (the westmost formed the back wall of some
outhouses) connected and formed with the buildings an oblong square,
having an internal court of 1 20 feet on the east and west, and 80 feet
on the north and south sides. The buildings occupied 80 feet on the
south and 48 feet on the west sides of this square. The mansion is
entered from the court by a wide doorway inserted in the east wall of

1 66 ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

the north wing, the highest of the buildings, and not in the turret itself
—an unusual arrangement.

At the north-east and furthest corner of the court walls from the
main buildings, are the foundations and part of the walls, with a sub-
terranean, vaulted chamber, of what appears to be a guard room for the
court entrance, situated just at that spot. It is about 15 feet by 12 feet.
On the north wing a wide moulding, or string course, about 8 feet from
the ground, encircles it, and is continued round the turret, accom-
modating itself to an ornamental niche over the main doorway, in
which the owner's crest was placed, but is now empty.

In the outside south wall of what has evidently been the great hall
are five small windows in the basement, and three large and three slightly
smaller windows in the hall storey, all formerly secured by iron bars.
The eastmost of the larger windows would seem to have been used as
an outside door, a most improbable original arrangement, and there is
no evidence of a communicating stair. (Sketch, page 173).

An earlier building, called in the charters, "the Forester's house."
is stated to be represented by the vaulted building on the north of the
court entrance, and this is probably the case, as that building, even in
its ruined state, bears marks of a superior architecture, having the roof
vaulting groined. The very earliest charter, so far back as 1450,
shews that the office and its duties required a personal attention and
residence, and the present building is certainly about 100 years later.
No name, initials, date, or crest, appear on its walls to verify its owner-
ship, although it is stated to be similar in design to Dunipace ancient
mansion, and presumably of the same period.

A family named Bailie are alleged to be the first holders of the
forester's office, but from Malcolm Forrester's possession in 1450,

?,^.*v lump, BMi'f \ Wi^'M"

, g

ly*:

>E4

»>«

TORWOOD CASTLE. I 69

downwards in a direct unbroken line, it remained and was hereditary in
that family, whose surname most probably originated from their office.
David succeeds his father Malcolm in 1476, and on 26th November,
1488, James IV. confirms Duncan Forestare of Gunnershaw as heir of
Hendry (David), and again, on 26th November, 1497, he confirms Sir
Walter Forestare as heir to Duncan. On 9th September, 1528, Sir
Walter is succeeded by David, sen of David Forestare of Garden, and
on 29th July, 1567, James VI. confirms the office and lands to Alex-
ander Forestar of Garden in liferent, and to James, his son, in fee,
including the house of the forester, and the lands and pertinents "of
old pertaining to said office, of which the said Alexander and his pre-
decessors have had possession beyond the memory of man:" it includes
also the house and lands of Forester's hill, with right to fallen wood,
bark, birch, and right of pasturage for 24 animals, 3 horses, and 6 tilling
beasts, with all powers belonging to the office : "as also of building a
mansion of stone and lime, with policies and plantations corresponding
thereto." No doubt the present mansion was erected, in implement
of the above obligation, by Alexander, and the general appearance and
style of the masonry is in harmony with this date.

Alexander Forrester was Provost of Stirling at this period, and
had his town ludging on the north side of what was formerly the Hie or
Mercategait. His ancestors had a close connection with Stirling, and
the members of his family sat in the High Church, and at their death
were interred in the old chapel, called from this fact the "Garden aisle,"
(on the west window lintel of which are the initials D.F.), where their
tombstones, with their arms and names, dating back to the time
of Provost Alexander, may be seen. (Sketches, pages 170 and 174).
The shields of that tablet on page 170 contain respectively the arms

i;o

ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

of Forrester and Erskine, and initials A.F. and I.E. — those of Provost
Sir Alexander Forrester and Jeanie Erskine, his wife. The other
initials D.F. and M.E., apparently added later, being cut into the
stone, seem those of their son Duncan and his wife. In addition to the

Latin motto, Soli deo honore et

11 V gloria, the margin is surrounded
SI by the following inscription, "Heir
m^\ lyis ane honorabil mane calit Alex-
ander F'oster, Laerd of Garden,
quha deit the 13 of Januar, 1598."
The tombstone on page 174 con-
tains also two shields, one with the
2/i husband's arms alone, and the
other with his impaled with those
of his wife's, evidently a member
of the Forrester family, the date
and initials, 1584, and A. D. and
E.M.

The situation of both the ancient
and more modern house have been
admirably chosen for commanding
the whole forest, on which it looks
down. After the departure of the
Court to England, in 1603, the
duties of the forester were considerably relaxed, the trees cut down and
the forest laid waste, while his Majesty's deer were rapidly being ex-
terminated. It culminated, in 1632, when Sir James Forrester's ab-
sence was so continued that the neglected condition of the Royal

TORWOOD CASTLE. 1 7 1

Forest was brought to the notice of King Charles I. He issued
letters, dated 15th March, 1632, to Margaret and Mary Forrester,
daughters of Sir James, then residing in the mansion, granting them
special commission to pursue, "according to the law of our kingdom,"
the delinquents slaying the deer and cutting the trees, the Lord Advo-
cate to concur for their better assistance, and all fines and "amer-
ciaments " taken from the delinquents for the time byegone were
awarded to them for their own use.

The troubles of the martyred king with his Parliament and the
general unsettled state of Scotland, combined to the neglect of protec-
tion of the deer and the forest, as of minor consideration in these
trying times ; and little more is subsequently heard of Torwood
Royal Forest. None of the ancient trees now survive, but a strain
ol the King's deer exists, and is now protected in the adjo'ining woods
of Carbrook. Thomas Dundas of Fingask, who had acquired Quarrel,
purchased Torwood estate in 1751 from the heirs of Lord Forrester,
and his successor, Mr. Dundas of Carronhall, recently sold it to the
late Mr. Bolton of Carbrook.

In the Jesuit priest (Blackhal's) remarks of his journey from Edin-
burgh to pass the Forth at Stirling Bridge, in 1643, he refers to finding
an ale house at end of Torwood, and, in passing Torwood, " which now
hath nothing but some scattered oackes, dying for antiquity, which
conserve the name and memory of that sometymes so famous a Wood,
especially in the history of Wallace."

Part 2.

Forrester of Garden's Town Ludging.

1VT Instrument of Sasine, recorded 20th
May, 1658, in favour of Thomas
Bauchop describes this ludging as "that
great tenement of land or building, with the
close, yard, and pertinents of old belonging
to the deceased Sir James Forrester of
Garden, lying on the north side of the High
Street of Stirling, betwixt the land of the
deceased James Forrester of Logie, on the east, the land of the deceased
James Robertson, merchant, on the west, and the High Street on the
south," etc. The Corporation purchased the property, described as in
ruins in 1718, and on its site built the large tenement, with the pend,
in Broad Street, at a cost of ,£1,463 Scots. It is named in the Town
Records the "Town's New House," and was intended for an hotel.

In 1498 the ancient house belonged to Sir Duncan Forrester of
Garden, Gunnershaw, and Skipynch, who was Master of the Royal
Household, and also held the office of Customar and Collector of the
King's rents. Sir Duncan was a favourite of James IV., who stood
sponsor or " hufe to Duncan Forestair's sones, bairne, giving a gratuity
of £<) to be put in the 'Tapir.'' On 12th April, 15 18, Sir Duncan,
"of devotion," constituted an annual rent of 13s. "over 2^ riggs of
land near the dovecot of John Bully, next the High Street (evidently

FOPRESTER OF GARDENS TOWN LUDGING.

173

behind his ludging), to Sir James Aikman, chaplain of die Holy Cross,
for prayers for the souls of Sir Duncan, Margaret Forsyth and Mar-
garet Bothwell, his wives. On 5th October, 1525, the Provost and
Town Council convene a meeting "in the lugene of Sir Duncan
Forestair of Garden, knycht, to avis on the gift of the Altar of Sanct
Katerin, fundit and situat within their parocht kirk, betwixt ane and
twa houris efter noune."

The old town mansion, thus demolished, was probably of the same
type to be in harmony with the adjoining ludging of his kinsman,
Forester of Loo-ie.

Part 3.

The Old Tower or
Fortalice of Garden.

I S alleged by tradition to have been
situated on a tree covered mound

in a marsh, formerly a shallow lakelet,
about 400 or 500 yards west of the
present mansion. The island, for such
it seems formerly to have been, is
about 210 feet by 120 feet, and its
highest portion — about 10 feet above
the water at its lowest level — is about
60 feet by 52 feet, with a causeway on
the north by way of access to the
mainland. On this the castle is con-
jectured to have stood, but not even a
stone of a building kind is visible.
Although utilized in building the present mansion, some vestige of the
site of the tower would have been expected, and the suggestion is raised
that the marshy ground absorbed what stones remained Hence the
castle must have required a wooden pileing for its foundation, which
may yet be verified by trenching the mound. The present mansion,
whose walls in the older parts are 4^ feet thick, may date back to the
middle of the seventeenth century, and was probably built by the
Senator, Sir Archibald Stirling. It was, Mr. Stirling informed me,
greatly altered and added to by his father in 1827.

THE OLD TOWER OR FORTALICE. 1/5

A few yards to the north of the mound is a knoll bearing the title
of Gallowshill. This is the old Scots name for an elevated station for
viewing purposes, but tradition assigns the gallows to a spot on it, pre-
sently represented by a large stone.

The earliest reference to Garden is in a charter of James IV.,
dated 28th November, 1497, and signed at Stirling, to Walter Fores-
tare, son and apparent heir of "our faithful friend Duncan Forestare
de Skipynch," of, inter alia, the lands of Garden, "with the Tower,
Fortalice, and Mill thereof;" and on 1 6th May, 1508, the King, in
addition to confirming Walter's investiture, erects these, with goose
croft and clay croft of Stirling, into a free Barony of " Forestare
Garden " — his father, Sir Duncan, who was then alive, reserving his
liferent. At the same time the son was infeft in Torwood, etc.

One of Sir Duncan's daughters married Sir Alexander Forrester,
and held the lands of Blackburn in Linlithgowshire, whose descendant
is Lord Forrester of Corstorphine, etc.

Walter, some short time prior to 9th September, 1528, was suc-
ceeded by his son David, but his possession was brief, as on that date
his son, also a Sir David, is settled therein, and in Torwood and the
office of Royal forester. On 29th July, 1567, he was succeeded by his
son, Provost Sir Alexander, whose tombstone (page 1 70) relates that
he died on 13th January, 1598. He had at least two sons, James and
Duncan. Sir James, the eldest, succeeded him, and on 26th October,
1603, also to his mother, Jeanie Erskine, in her lands of Ardmore in
Menteith. On 5th April, 1608, Sir James makes up and records his
title as heir to his great grandfather's father, Walter of Garden, in the
lands of Cambusbarron and patronage of the Chapel. His younger
brother Duncan, of date 26th March, 1602, similarly made up and

1 76

ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

recorded a title as heir of his father's great-grandfather's grandfather,
Robert Forrester of Boquhane, to other lands ; and it is interesting as
including a barn and garden (horreo et horto) " on the east part of the
stone wall near the Port of Stirling." Sir James seems to have shortly
thereafter deserted Garden old Castle, probably as becoming uninhabit-
able, for Torwood, and made that mansion his residence, as he is
designed, in August, 1622, as of that place.

Sir Archibald Stirling, a branch of the Keir family and a Senator
of the College of Justice, was proprietor of Garden prior to 1667, and
the present mansion may then have been built and occupied by him.
On 15th August of that year, he designs himself as now of Keir, he
having succeeded shortly before to Keir estates as heir of Sir George
Stirling. On 31st July, 1668, Sir John Stirling of Keir succeeds to
Garden as heir male of provision to Sir Archibald, and the estate
remains in the possession of his descendants — Mr. Stirling of Garden
being the present proprietor.

MS i\CAl\ WJ?!!>\

amm

rD^cpHc-^-'M ^-V^V lit, DAVID BfiOcM< .ftgjj

CHAPTER AIA.
Part 1.

3lexander, First Lord Elphinston's

Ludging

I S situated on the west side of a close, or through entry, between
Broad Street and St. Mary's Wynd, named " Craigis Cloiss " in
1630. It consists of two buildings, one fronting the former street
now occupied by a spirit dealer, (sketch above), and with its ancient
carved dormer, latin inscriptions, and sun dial, forms a conspicuous object.
That behind, although from the narrowness of the close unobserved by
passengers, retains its very ancient turretted stair tower, with its
original conical roof — the only perfect specimen in Stirling. From
their evidences of great antiquity, the older parts of these buildings
may date back to Alexander, First Lord Elphinston's ownership, about

1 7$ ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

1509. Esteemed by James IV., and married to his consort's favourite
maid of honour, the English lady, Elizabeth Barlow, Elphinston was
killed with his royal master at Flodden.

On 6th May, 1533, his son, Alexander, Second Lord Elphinston,
sold the properties to Sir John Paterson, Canon of the Chapel Royal
of Stirling, the description being "his fore tenement of land, under and
above, in the burgh of Stirling, on the north side of the Hie Street,
opposite the Market Cross, which was formerly called ' Muiresland,' '
and on account of a life rent over it (probably of his mother, Elizabeth
Barlow), he gave all his tenement, back and fore, with the garden and
pertinents in the Back Raw, in warrandice. This deed is dated at
Elphinston, one of the witnesses thereto being William Johnstone, "his
lordship's chaplain," and he signs his surname " Elphynstoun " and
appends his seal. The first Lord Elphinston's widow being liferented
in it, points to it being the family residential mansion. The identity of
the building is confirmed by the description in a tack and obligation of
the adjoining eastmost tenement, by " Schir William Alschinder, chap-
lain servitor to my Lord of Ergile " (a relation of the Earl of Stirling's
ancestor), dated 12th July, 1546, as being on the north part of the
" Queenis gait foment the mercate croce of the samyn, betwixt the land
of Schir John Paterson and umqle Robert Paulie on the west pairt, on
that ane pairt, the land of David Forester of Garden on the est pairt;

Jlb^^l^H* etc.

The sculptured texts of the inscription—

- 'jJft^J^H '• ftfcafcftk Lans deo, hie parta, hie maneat ; nisi dom-

f^lS^Sj&f&PAKTAr' inus> c'ate and in'tials- 17I5- I.B.K.M.

4llfi^rt>Y!^S^ ¥U\-'tyl£' may have been on the original front of this

% MeHmMm V"n f at • i% %&

building, as the present close distinctly

f\ll> !W v f i ■- i?//

&s«

*. -.; :'• i- --.v.f

: / jJli"^ 5 ^f;

cC ^t-^-rCo^c^i-tcv *<- o- ^tca.^cH-.e,,

l.nkl) ELPHINSTON S LUDGING.

181

shews, that the building has been brought forward to the High Street

and a new front of some 10 feet added, with these texts placed haphazard

on it. They, therefore, can give no assistance in investigating its age

and ownership. The initials

and date give apparently the

persons who made and the

date of the conversion. Mary,

a daughter of the first Lord Elphinston, died in it.

The Back Raw house was, in memory of Elphinston's death at
Flodden and of his father, John's, at Pinkiecleuch, burdened with " twa
merkis of obit silver, to be upliftit and tane to the feft chaplanes yeirly,
for sufferagh to be downe for the saulles of umquhile Alexander Lord
Elphinston and Schir Johen Elphinstone, his fader, of ane land and tene-
ment Hand in the Bac Raw." This deed is dated 14th October, 152 1.

The connection between the Lords Elphinston and the Corporation
of Stirling continued for about two centuries, and consisted often of
litigations and other unneighbourly acts concerning Craigforth cruives
and salmon fishings, of which Lord Elpninston was owner ; but, not-
withstanding these, otherwise friendly relations existed — Lady Elphin-
ston being kindly treated by them on various occasions.

Part 2.

Elphinston Tower and
Fortalice.

'HE only remains of the ancient man-
sion called the Tower and Fortalice
of Elphinston, is the well-preserved, ivy-
covered, square, machicolated tower bearing
that name, situated at the east end of the
estate, and about half-a-mile from the
modern mansion, formerly Elphinston, but
now called Dunmore. It is perched on a
sandstone rock, having, on the north an
abrupt descent of 50 feet to the flat plain,
which evidently at some distant age was
covered by the Forth, but is now a marsh.
Viewed from the north and east, the tower
is a conspicuous object for many miles. The west side of the tower
bears marks of some extensive building" being formerly attached to it,
but from the comparatively trifling ruins and great alterations recently
made on the ground surrounding it, no foundations of such could be
traced. There is no coat of arms, carving, or initials visible on it, and
its date is left to be obtained from the noble family whose baronial
residence it was not earlier than the beginning of the fifteenth century.
It was probably built by Sir John Elphinston, father of the first Lord
Elphinston. The door to the tower faces the south. It was a place of
some natural strength by reason of its situation.

CXi^tlL Ttio-e^tct iS

a-o-c^o.-.

y/'/"'. '\ ", , '", '

CK-O-CO-^ C/0-CiL£^^L.,

KLPHINSTON TOWER AND FORTALICE. 1 85

The possession of Elphinston dates back to John Elphinston, who
married Marjory Erth, heiress of Erthbeg, or Little Erth, and acquired
with her the earliest possessions of the Elphinstons, which were the
residences of the descendants of the main line for about a century and
a half, and formed the nucleus of their estate. John died about 1340,
and Alexander, before his succession, was one of eighty squires who
garrisoned Stirling Castle when held by the English Warden, Sir
Thomas Rokeby, in 1336. In 1435, Henry of Pendrich was in altered
circumstances.

A peerage compendium assigns the origin of the family to a
German ancestor, who married a sister of Robert the Bruce, and got
with her lands in Lothian, which he named after himself " Evington,"
and that a descendant, Alexander, excambed part of these, called
" Kinchiber," with Alexander, son of Adam More, for the lands of
Erthbeg, which he called Elphinston. But this history is clearly wrong-
in many other points and is unreliable.

The Right Honourable John Elphinston acquired from his kinsman,
Lord Lindsay, in 1497, Agnes of Erth's share of Erthbeg, and thus
held Erthbeg, Barony of Airth, and lands of Craigforth direct off the
King, the charter being granted for "good and faithful counsel and
assistance," presumably at the battle of Sauchieburn, where he acted a
conspicuous part and was called the " King's familiar shield bearer."
He dropped the name of Pendreich and retained only that of this
Barony. He died in 1508.

Alexander, his son, who succeeded him about 1509, was a great
favourite of James IV., who created him Baron Elphinston, erected his
various lands into a Barony, and appointed him a Privy Councillor and
Keeper of Stirling Castle, besides being officially attached to the Court.

1 86 ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

So highly favoured was he that the King procured his marriage with
Elizabeth Barlow, an English lady, the favourite maid of honour of his
consort, Margaret Tudor; and on 12th August, 15 13, at Twisselhaugh,
(a memorable date and place on account of the execution of numerous
charters and grants in fulfilment of prior obligations) the King, evi-
dently having a presentiment of his death, grants to him and his
English spouse the lands of Kiklrummy in Aberdeenshire — the con-
sideration being naively expressed that his "consort's Maid of Honor,
Elizabeth Barley, as a foreigner whom we had desired Lord Elphinston
to wed, and for his good and faithful gratuitous services, and in con-
templation of her dowry made to her, being beyond her native land in
the service of our consort, and on account of his predecessor's (John's)
death at Piperdane " in the King's ancestors' service. Alexander was
killed with his royal master at Flodden, on the fifth of the following
month. In stature and appearance he is described as having resembled
the King, and he agreed, previous to the battle, for the safety of James,
whose bravery in exposing himself was feared would mark him out for
English weapons, to personate him and take this risk. He was
accordingly clothed in similar armour, and acted so perfectly that he
imposed on, and was actually followed and defended by the chief of the
Scottish nobility. Similarly, after the battle, his body was mistaken by
the English for that of the King.

By his marriage to Elizabeth Barlow he had two sons, Alexander
and James, and three daughters, one of whom, Mary, died in Stirling.
Alexander who was only two years of age at his father's death, suc-
ceeded to the estates, and was entered on a precept issued by James Y.
(who had been newly crowned at Stirling) to John Craigengelt, Sheriff
of Stirling, and James Spetaile of Blairlogie, Alexander's attorney,

ELPHINSTON TOWER AND FORTALICE. 1 87

dated 8th November, 15 13, on payment of 140 merks of relief duty.
This charge is inconsistent with the Act at Twisselhaugh exempting
heirs of slain soldiers from relief duty. The lands are described as the
Lands and Barony of Elphinston, with Tower and Fortalice of Elphin-
ston annexed thereto, which included the extensive and widely-separated
lands of Pendreich, Craigrosse, Ouarrol, Craigforth, Gargunnock,
Carnock, and Playne. The Kildrummy estate, of course, remained
vested in the widow as the King's dowry.

An incident in the family history occurs on 29th March, 1509, when,
as it seemed then a common family custom, Alexander, first Lord
Elphinston, gave bond " to his well beloved frend," John Kinross of
Kippenross, for the marriage between his son James and Jean Elphin-
ston, who, if his daughter, must have been a child. Kippenross pledged
his Mill for performance of his part of the contract. James, however,
married Isabella, daughter of Robert Callander of the Manor.

On 15th May, 1524, Robert Elphinston appears for the young
Lord Alexander, and lays down 100 merks on the altar of the Parish
Church of Stirling for the redemption of the lands pledged by Sir John
in 1 506, to a Malcolm Cristison, a burgess. The money is consigned
in the Town Clerk's hands, and Provost Alexander Foster grants a
receipt.

In 1568, James VI. orders Robert, Lord Elphinston, who had
joined the rebel lords, to deliver up his Tower and Fortalice.

James, second son of Alexander, the second Lord, was " cup-
bearer " to James VI. Another relative was Master of the Household,
and on 29th July, 1651, gets an order from Charles II. on the Magis-
trates of Stirling for ^104, for the King's use, who was then in Stirling-
Castle. On 19th January, 1619, Alexander succeeded, as heir of his

iSS

ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY

father Robert, and on 30th May, 1655, his son succeeded, the lands and
barony then including the advocation of the parish Kirks of Airth,
Logie and Straithgull, and Ferryboat of Elphinston. On 27th Septem-
ber, 1683, Charles Elphinston, designed as of Airth, succeeds as heir
of his father Richard, to the lands of Airth and Pendreich.

Lord Keith, the celebrated admiral and M.P., the fifth son of Lord
Charles, was born in the Tower on 12th January, 1746, although
he died at Tulliallan. The last resident Elphinston was John, the
eleventh Lord, an officer wounded in Canada when serving- under
General Wolfe. By disposition, dated 3rd July, 1784, he sold Elphin-
ston to John, Earl of Dunmore, who was infeft on 17th July, 1786 —
the name being then changed to Dunmore. The Earl of Dunmore,
appointed by Queen Anne a Privy Councillor and Governor of Blackness
Castle, must have occupied the old Tower, etc., as the date on his new
mansion, with coat of arms (a heart and motto, Fidelis adversis), is 1822.

The market cross of Airth (sketch, page 182), a very fine specimen
of its class, has four faces, on two of which are the respective coats of
arms and crests of Bruce and Elphinston, with the initials R. B. and
C.E. and motto, " Doe well and let them say," with the date 1697. On
the other two faces are sun dials. The initials represent Robert Bruce
of Airth and Charles, ninth Lord Elphinston, designed as "of Airth,"
who erected the cross. He was slain in a duel with Captain William
Bruce of Airth at Torwood.

©ftSWEUL ANBLETTHJMSfl

Part 3.

Skaithmuir.

r\ Skaithmuir is situated about 500 yards
*— **-^ west of Quarrel Mansion, and is a square
tower 36 feet by 24 feet, and about 60 feet high,
having its doorway in the east wall. It has been
completely gutted out to utilize it for a pumping engine to a coal pit.
On its west side running north and south, and 18 feet distant therefrom,
are the foundation walls of some extensive building, about 60 feet in
length. Several other ruined erections surround it, but are intermixed
and inseparable from the ruins of more modern erections connected with
the pit. The demesne wall, 8 feet high, encloses about 6 or 8 acres,
all now open to and used by the population of the adjoining miners'
village for their rubbish. There are two sun dials on the east and west
corners of the south wall of the Tower (sketch, page 190), and on the
lintel of a window on the second floor of the west wall are the initials
and date, L.A.E., 1637, D. I.L. (sketch above), representing Lord
Alexander Elphinston and Dame Jean Livingston. As the erection of
the Tower is of an anterior date, these must apply to some additions
and alterations then made on it.

From the registers we find that Skdmnir Tower and Mansion was

190

ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

the residence, in September, 1542, of Robert Bisset of Quarrel, a char-
ter by him, to Ninian Bruce, of part of Kinnaird, being dated from it.

In the marriage contract of 10th April, 1575, between Robert,
Lord Elphinston and Dame Margaret Drummond his spouse, for their
son, Master Alexander Elphinston, and William, Lord Livingston, and

Odd fhkc^LttLsK-K-La.,

SKAITIIMUIk.

t9I

Agnes Fleming, his spouse, for their eldest daughter, Jean Livingston,
dated at Mar and Eister Kilsyth, the lands of Pittendreich, near Stir-
ling, are conveyed to the young couple, and the lands and barony of
Elphinston are given in warrandice thereof. Master Alexander suc-
ceeded his said father, Lord Robert, on 19th January, 16 19, and died
previous to 13th May, 1655, when his son, also Alexander, fifth Lord
Elphinston, succeeded him, not only in Ouarrell, but in the lands and
barony of Elphinston. He married Elizabeth, daughter of Patrick,
Lord Drummond. The sixth Lord Elphinston married his uncle's
daughter, Lillias, while the seventh Lord Elphinston died without issue.
The neglected condition and abuse of this mediaeval baron's resi-
dence is regrettable, and raises a painful feeling that such a disregard
for these historical memorials of a long-past generation should exist
and that they receive from their owners so scant consideration — a
vandalism rare, however, amongst our landed gentry.

Part 4.

Quarrel (Carronhall).

PHOMAS BISSET of Quarrel appears as one

j(L)W&^ of an inquest in a Breve of Terce led by

Marion Somerville, widow of David Foster oi

Torwood, dated July, 1492 ; and the main part of

this estate continued in that family down to 30th

J k\ October, 1604, when John Bisset, who gets

sasine,
as heir of his father Robert, in Chirmuirlands, in
the Baillery of Stirling, is there designed as of Ouarrel.

QUARREL.

193

Or 29th Angust, 151 2, James IV. grants to Alexander, Lord
Elphinston, the lands of Quarrel, described as in the Barony of Her-
bertshire, having belonged formerly to the above Thomas Bisset and
afterwards to Oliver Sinclare de Roslyn, and being alienated from said
Barony were then in the King's hands. In 15 10, 1527, and 1542,
charters of confirmation are granted by James IV. and James V. to
the said Oliver Sinclare and Agnes Crichton, his spouse, of the
other parts. The last of these charters, a deed of entail, included half
of Stanehouse and Quarrel, under which there was apparently a failure,
as the lands had reverted to the King.

The lands, cum castris — thus including Skaithmuir Castle-
were burdened with an annual of £6 to the Convent of the Holy Cross.
James VI. on the narrative of
the convents being abolished or
non-existent, conveyed this and
other church annuals to Sir Ludo-
vic Bellenden, son and heir of
James, commendator of said con-
vent,— the reddendo being ^200
and giving the service of a
Knight Baronet (banneret). On
1 2th August, 1 59 1 , the same king
ratifies Sir Ludovic's grant of
church annuals, but withdrew
from it those affecting the parts
of Quarrel, and united them
to the Barony of Elphinston.

194

ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY,

Quarrel thus came into the Elphinston family in August, 15 12,
and being incorporated therewith, it followed the succession of the
Elphinston Barony, narrated in the preceding article, down to 23rd
September, 1773, when held by the heiress, Lady Clementina Fleming

of Bio-gar and Cumbernauld. On
23rd October, 1760, John, Lord
Elphinston, succeeded to Quar-
rel, Pocknave, and Powfoulis,
and gets a charter under the
^ great seal. On 27th February,
1797, his son, John Fleming of
Biggar and Cumbernauld, Lord
Elphinston, succeeds to those
parts of the Barony of Elphinston
called Quariol, Pocknave, and
Powfowlis, but this is only to
the superiority, the dominium
utile having been previously sold,
or came into the possession
of George Drummond of Blair
Drummond, who, by disposition
dated 19th January, 1749, sold them to Thomas Dundas, younger, of
Fingask, for ^7000 — the lands marching with the lands of his father —
Bailie Thomas Dundas of Letham. The lands of Quarrel compre-
hended the old Barony of Skaithmuir, with its mill and lands, and
Manor Place of Quarrel, the shore of Quarrel, now Carronshore, with
coal field and buildings at the shore, shore dues, and passage boat ;

^ r^ Si m-W i '

QUARREL. 1 97

together with " ricjht and title to the coal hewers and coal burners
working and serving in the present going coal, or which belong to the
said coal, and may at present be serving in any other coal." This
shows that so recently as 1749, the colliers were bought and sold as
part of the estate. At this time the old Manor House received additions
and alterations, and the name was changed to Carronhall by Thomas
Dundas. He was succeeded by his son, also Thomas, on 23rd
September, 1790, and with Quarrel was included Easter Skaithmuir,
while, at the same time, he was infeft in Torwoodheid. David
Erskine of Cardross was superior in 1831, when the estate is described
as "the lands of Ouariol, now called Carronhall."

The mansion, originally a square tower similar to Skaithmuir, has
been built around by various apartments, the tower now forming the
hall and staircase — all incorporated therewith. The sketch (page 193)
represents the oldest parts, a turret and stair. There is also an out-
house, now used as a wine cellar, in the west wing. It is the ancient
chapel, 16 feet by 16 feet, with courses of freestone forming its barrel-
vaulted roof, supported by four broad ribs, and being entered originally
by a small staircase from the north (sketch, page 194). Its only
window is in the east gable, and has been converted into the door to
the cellar (sketch, page 198).

From the strength of the walls of the to'wer and the character of
the building of the chapel, it is most probable that they existed in
Thomas Bisset's time, about the middle of the fifteenth century, and
are probably older than Skaithmuir.

The sketch opposite is of the part next the garden, and shews one
of the external sides of the old tower and staircase. In the garden is

io8

ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OE STIRLING NOBILITY.

the very singular sun dial sketched on page 192, which is exactly-
similar to that at Barnbougle Mansion in Fifeshire. No name, initials,
arms, or date is visible on any part of the mansion or the dial.

~(S)-fL.CK.p-.

CHATPEB AA.
Part 1.

Shaw of Sauchie's Ludging.

™*HIS family, by reason of their constant attendance on the Court,
had an early and close connection with Stirling, requiring a town
residence so far back as 13th March, 1476, when James held the lands
of Knockhill, part of which was subsequently sold to Adam Bully in
1479 and 1484. Alexander held a tenement and croft at the north end
of St. Mary's Wynd in 1540 (Knockhill). This tenement, situated in
his park of Knockhill (afterwards called Brown's Park) and under the
Castle walls, is long since razed to the ground.

On 6th May, 1521, "James Schaw of Salky, Knycht," granted in
presence of the Provost and Bailies, " that he renunsit and gaife our all
rycht or tittle (title) of rycht that he had, has, or mycht have in ony
tyme to cum, to ane land and tenement pertenyn to umquhill Thomas

?oo

ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

Young, Hand within the said Burgh betuex the land and tenement of
umquhill Robert Duncan on the est part, and the land of Sir James
Darrow on the wast part, and the King's Hiegait on the norcht part,
and the gait callit the Backraw on the soucht part, to Robert Spettale,
servand to the Ouenis orace," and obliged himself never to come in the
contrary, etc., under the pain of "mans wearing," etc.

JrdlWahi

igf

-:--?~^'-- - :,

The sketch above represents Sir James Shaw's house conveyed
to Robert Spittal, used by the latter as an Alms House, as the tablet
on it shews, and was owned by the patrons of the Hospital he founded
clown to a comparatively recent date. Thirty years ago this house
preserved its original condition, which was exactly similar, with tower

SHAW OF SAUCHIE S LUDGING.

20I

and dormer windows, to its neighbour on the west, presumably Sir
Robert Darrow's house, above referred to. An examination of its
massive walls and vaulted cellars reveals its great ao;e. The walls are
6 feet thick, and their four small windows give the vaults the appear-
ance of casemates. These features, and its weather-worn chimney-
heads indicate it to be the older house of the two. So recently as 1 703,
"the Alms House in the Friars' Yard " (old High School yard), is
referred to in the Town Records as then existing, and the old stone
tablet, with its quaint lettering and date 1530, is evidence of its
antiquity and the purposes for which it was used.

mm,

'i i

:/?7^

Part 2.

Sauchie Tower.

ARGE square tower, a good type of a noble-
^^* man's residence in the feudal times, was

erected by Sir James Shaw, it is stated, about
1420. It stands detached, on an eminence, about
midway between Alloa and Tillicoultry, close to
the village now of that name, but formerly called
Newton of Sauchie. (Sketch, see page 28). It is 34 feet from north
to south, by 28 feet from east to west, outside its walls, has machicolations
on its battlements, with four pepper-box turrets at its angles, and a
small tower on the roof, which existed some fifty years ago, terminating
the inside stair. This formed, no doubt, a shelter to the warder on
the battlements, from which a wide range of the country is commanded.

SAUCHIE TOWER.

20'

The Tower had four floors. The ground one is vaulted, and is
entire, consisting of a large apartment (apparently the kitchen) with
store recesses and what seems to be a guard room ; also, an open
ashlar-built draw well. The first floor, one large dining-hall, has a
fireplace 10 feet wide, with a lintel stone of 12 feet, and sculptured
jambs (sketch, Bruce's Castle).

1 ' / ' /

The walls contain stone corbels
for the support of the oaken
beams of the floor of the cham-
ber above, now gone. In a
room off this is what seems to
be an oven — this sketch. A few
narrow windows, all barred, the |||gg|l
iron bars interlacing, are its only
lights. The second floor is ap-
parently a large single room like
the dining hall, and with a large
fireplace and windows somewhat
similar. The third floor con-
tained the dormitories, but the

wooden floors of this chamber and that beneath it having fallen in,
these are indistinguishable in the ruins. The windows here are also
barred. All the windows are splayed inside, in their soles, jambs, and
lintels, and the masonry is otherwise very superior work. One or two
of the original iron bars remain in the windows.

A moat had surrounded the north and west sides of the Tower, as
remains of it and the stream that evidently supplied its water, exist.
Two high walls probably formed the other sides of the enclosing court,

I §

<^>

!04

ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY

with an arched gateway by way of access, having, no doubt, the old
coat of arms (sketch, page 202), discovered built into the wall of an
adjoining cottage, over it. The three flaggons in the arms point to the
hereditary office of royal cupbearer being originally in the Shaw family.
A descendant, David Murray, is designed as cupbearer to James VI.

The more modern seventeenth century mansion (see sketch, p. 34),
with its numerous dormers, windows, and porch, is of interest from the
quaint carvings and inscriptions they carry. The coat of arms, date,
and initials, with motto, " I mein weil," (sketch, page 199), are those
of Sir Alexander Shaw, who was served heir to his father in Sauchie
in 1 63 1, and thus he had erected the mansion immediately on his
succession. He married Helen, daughter of Sir Robert Bruce of
Clackmannan. A special peculiarity occurs in the inscription recorded
on the ribbon held by the two uncouth savages, the supporters of these
arms, in respect that it follows the various windings of the ribbon so
faithfully as to be thus rendered unreadable. Those on the two front
dormers, however, are respectively, " En bien faisant " and "Je me
contente" All of these are illustrated by the various sketches in this
chapter.

Part 3.

History of the Shaw Family.

PHOUGH the estate of " Salacheth " or Sauchie, dates back to the
charter of Sir Robert the Bruce, ioth June, 1321, wherein he grants
to Henrico de Annandio the lands, "with its woods, planes, pastures,
roads, ways, stone quarries, dams, mills, multures, waters, fishings, and
liberties of hunting and fishing, yet the age of the old Tower does not
correspond to so early a period. Henry, who was Sheriff of Clack-
mannan, was succeeded by his son, David, and he by I slay de
Annandio, a supposed son. Islay had two daughters, Margaret,
married to William Brown of Colston, and Mary, who married James
Schaw of Greenock. The parts of the Barony containing the principal
mannerum went to the eldest, Margaret, while the other lands were
divided equally between them. Margaret, however, about 1420,

206 ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

executed a disposition of part of Sauchie to her husband, whom failing,
to John, son of Sir James Schaw, and on 30th June, 1536, John Brown,
her successor, sold the remainder of Sauchie to Alexander Schaw.
The Tower's erection may, therefore, be more accurately ascribed to
the possession of James Schaw, in the beginning or middle of the
fifteenth century.

Few noblemen of his rank, in his time, held so many important
offices, or played so conspicuous a part in Scottish history, as Schaw of
Sauchie ; and as his Tower has been selected for description as a type
of a nobleman's residence in the feudal ages, so his public history may
be given as a fair example of a mediaeval baron's career, and as illus-
trative of the social economy during these troublous times.

In 142 1, Sir James, as the King's Customar, collects his rents at
Inverkeithing. In 1470, his son, Sir James, appears as a witness to a
charter by King James III. by the designation of "our comptroller."
In 147 1, he is Sheriff of Stirling, and in that capacity gives sasine to
Margaret de Logy, the Queen of James III., of her dower lands of
Tillicoultry — Sir Symon Grey, vicar of Tillicoultry, being a witness.
On 6th June, 1480, his cousin, William Brown, designed as of Colston
and Sauchie, gives him infeftment of the lands of Dawmerketh, etc.,
referring to their mothers' dowers. Having mortgaged or given a
wadset over Sauchie,'1* which the records shew was then a prevalent
fashion of raising money in absence of banks, to Matthew Forrester, a

* Note. — These usurous traffickings between needy nobility and wealthy burgesses were a feature
of that age, the latter owing part of their wealth and much of their consequence from the power thus
acquired over the borrowers. The interest charged was 10 per cent., with a chance of failure of redemp-
tion and consequent forfeiture of lands. The constitution of the security was generally a bond of annual
rent of a sum equivalent to 10 per cent, on the advance, and a letter of redemption from the lender, giving
the amount, and manner, and place of repayment. Dowager-Queen Margaret, widow of James IV.,
pledged her "hat of selvus begairet with cheynis of gold," with Marion Bruce for £\<X>, in 1547.

HISTORY OF TIIF SHAW FAMILY. 20"j

wealthy Stirling burgess, for ^500 Scots, he appears on 25th August,
1482, to redeem it and claim his estate. About a year previously, Sir
James' son John had either abducted or got Jonet Forrester, Matthew's
daughter and heiress, to elope with him, occasioning an outcry and
a demand for justice by the father and relatives against the seducer.
The denouement of this episode is revealed by the record of the notary's
instrument, dated 28th November, 1481, vizt : — "James Schaw of
Sauchie came to the ludging of Matthew Forrester with Jonet Forrester,
his daughter, who being interrogated anent her being carried off by
John Schaw, son of the said James, averred it had been done with her
consent, and she was now his wife." So the threatened feud ended
happily with a marriage. As a provision for the young couple, Sir
James, on 18th January following, infefts his son and Jonet Forrester,
"his wife," in the lands of Abyrint. No doubt Matthew contributed
his share, as his daughter's portion, in another and not less satisfactory
form.

We now come to a period of Sir James' history which casts a deep
blemish on his character, and reveals the ingratitude he returned his
royal master for the conferment of the many high offices, and how the
implicit trust reposed in him was so basely abused. In addition to his
other offices, the King had conferred on him the constabularyship of
Stirling Castle and the custody of his son, the Duke of Rothesay, his
successor. Precedent to the battle of Sauchieburn and his murder at
Bethune's Mill, the King, as is well known, sought admission to his
son in Stirling Castle, but was refused by Schaw ; and subsequently the
Prince was handed over to the rebel lords, Argyll and Angus, to be
used by them as a tool to legalise their treason, and for the unnatural
act of fighting against his own father — an act which is known caused
the Prince the deepest remorse, and affected his whole life, occasioning

2o8 ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

numerous, otherwise unaccountable, pilgrimages to the Saints' shrines
as an atonement. It is recorded that these very Lords afterwards so
detested Sir James for his treachery, though committed at their instiga-
tion and in their service, that they got him deposed from his official
position in favour of Sir John Lundie. This must have been a long
time afterwards, for on 20th January, 1489, a few months only after his
accession, the youthful King, then only 16 years of age, issued royal
letters re-bestowing not only on Sir James, but on his son John, "and
the longest liver of them for the whole of his lifetime, the custody of
the Castle, Mansion or House, and Fortalice of Stirling, with the office
of constabulary, all as held by him from the late King, our father"
And, subsequently, the Treasurer is ordered to repay James Schaw of
Sauchie £$0 lent to the King " quhen he was Prince."

The next reference to the family of Schaw is on 24th May, 1568,
when James VI. demanded from Sir James, a grandson, "delivery of
the tour and fortalice of Saquhy to his officers," he having joined the
discontented and rebellious Lords.

In a no less unfavourable licrht does this Schaw figure in the
following discreditable incident in which he incurred Queen Mary's dire
displeasure. On 25th October, 1561, with the Queen from France,
came several French ladies and gentlemen who remained at her Court.
One of the Frenchmen was robbed of the large sum of 4,500 crowns.
The suspected thief was a relative of Sir James', who was summoned to
Stirling, and was interrogated in the Queen's presence as to his kins-
man's hiding-place, and " confesset and granted that he knew William
Schaw culpable and participant of the taking of jiii. m. v. c. crowns
fra the frenchman, and that he hes been dyvars times in his hus sins
syne, and being chairged to produce the said William befoir Hir
Hieness, hes nocht dun the samyn. The Queen assigns the said James

w/'itllfltH" 'i- I iaa»»,i. IB 'IT uiSI--' :J' fara

"U.

,,•; "V'-,' :(r -r.

*rr w~? . -r s>

-V II. ]

1,1, < i Jl - ,..*' \'',m

■ftfUuT

i *■

i«

HISTORY OF THE SHAW FAMILY.

21 I

the last day of November to apprehend and produce William befoir hir
and council, and failure, to encur Queen's indignation." History is
silent as to whether William was produced, proved guilty, punished,
and the crowns recovered, or not.

Sir James, in difficulties, and at open feud
with Sir William Douglas of Loch Leven, and
their retaliatory raids against each others'
castles, families, and vassals, becoming most
intolerant, the Lords Commissioners summoned
them before the Court of Session. They called
them to " expone and declare the questions
and actions debateable betwixt them," after IJMi"'^^^!'1^'^
which the Lords " ordained baith parties to
pursue their actions, civilly or criminally, and
to desist from invading or pursuing- their friends,
servants, or tenants," etc.

The only other instance we will refer to is
on 23rd June, 1568, when Sir James of Sauchie
and his son become bound in relief of four kinsmen who had been
sureties to the extent of ^1000 for John Blacater of Tulliallan,
suspected, with three others, of Darnley's murder. On 26th June, 1567,
Blacater had been "put in the irns and turmentis," and was then being
liberated from prison on bail.

On 4th August following, Queen Mary quit-claims Sir James and
Margaret Kirkcaldy, his spouse, and the lands of Sauchie, " cum castro,
turre, fortalicio, etc., thereof."

In July, 1608, Sir James Schaw of Sauchy is served heir to Alex-
ander Schaw of Tillicoultry. On 27th August, 1623, Sir Alexander

(who married Helen, daughter of Sir Robert Bruce of Clackmannan)
o

2 12 ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

was served heir to Sir James, and Sauchie, with other lands in Kin-
ross, were at that time erected into a Barony of Sauchie. He was
the builder of the mansion house adjoining the old Tower, as before
mentioned. A nephew, James Schaw of Arncumbrie (Arngomery),
soldier son of Sir William, Master of Works, seems to have succeeded
to Sauchie previous to 1623.

The estate remained in the Schaw family down to 1793, when
William Schaw, Lord Cathcart, was owner. He was succeeded, in
1826, by William, Earl of Mansfield, both descendants, the latter dying
in 1898, at an advanced age. The adjoining village was anciently
named Newton Shaw.

1 , ifa*
.Jm%g

(j)ILcL o-i^E.O>x. o~f- LAic<^cK-e^i^.(iLa-Cli-(-e- i^vt-cl-CLi^fi^cL.

CHAPTER AAI.
Part 1.

Provost Robert Bruce of 3uchenbowie's

Town House

IS the last house at the head and on the south side of St. John Street,
the ancient South gait or Back Raw, and is one of the oldest in
Stirling, popularly named Boghall or, as corrupted, Bogle ha. The
house of that name, however, is supposed to be that belonging" to Lord
Fleming of Boghall in the vicinity, and, undoubtedly, this was the town
mansion of Robert Bruce of Auchenbowie. The existing evidences of
its antiquity are the filleted coping of the east, stepped gable, the
ornamental corbels, the rough, strong vaulted, ground floor, and the

214

ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY,

moulded doorway. The sculptured stone on a wall behind, now par-
tially covered up by an outhouse, is evidently a coat of arms, to which
Dr. Rogers refers. The turret stair anciently had a conical roof, as we
see from the sketch (page 213) taken from an old drawing of the
ancient manse of Stirling, which adjoined it. A similar filleted coping
appears on an old building in the Cowgate of Edinburgh, bearing the

i^<-c-e- o-Z OCtcc/Ce,i-t-6_o-CU-<le-'o^ y^tA-cLdbt^t^ct. .

date 1574, which Wilson, in his Memorials of Edinbui'gh, describes as
an early form of crow-stepped gable. The west gable has fallen or
been removed, but the vaulting of the ground floor of that section of
the building existed in our day. The late Dr. Galbraith, in his remin-
iscences, speaks of the fine carved archway (now incorporated in and

BRUCE OF AUCHENBOWIE S TOWN HOUSE. 215

forming the north entrance of the High School building) as having
originally stood in its vicinity — being, probably, a. court entrance to the
mansion.

In a contract of lease, 1592, by the town to James Rutherfurd of
the South Brae (the Back Walk), the north boundary is the dyke of
the Kirk yaird, the back tenement and back yaird of Robert Auch-
moutie (now Cowane's Hospital and green), Joint Bruce of Auchen-
bowie, and Adam Spittal of Blairlogie. And in King James VI.'s
confirmation of a charter, dated 12th May, 1587, granted by the late
Robert Auchmouty, perpetual vicar of the parish church of Stirling,
with consent of Robert, perpetual commendator of Dunfermline and its
convent, patrons of the vicarage, to Robert Auchmoutie, junior, son of
John Auchmoutie, of a piece of the garden of the vicarage and old
ruined house, it is described as between the small house of John and
the little garden and the hottse of John Bruce.

Robert Bruce, who could only be designed as of Auchenbowie after
he acquired it in 1508, was a magistrate in 1521, and Provost in 1556.
In answer to a complaint of remissness in his magisterial capacity, he
protests that, if he has neglected his duties, it has been for want " of
time and place to uptak the samyn." The period of his elevation to
this high office, which, no doubt, demanded a corresponding residence
suitable to its dignity, was, very probably, the date of his erection of
this superior burgess dwelling — about 1520.

Part 2.

Country Mansion.

""HIS plain old mansion is situated on the south side of the highway
* between Stirling and Larbert, in a wood of very old timber, and
has been greatly altered of late years, but, fortunately, leaving the
older portions on the north nearly in their original condition, from
which our sketch opposite is taken. There is also, on the back lawn,
an old sun dial (sketch, page 219), having the initials G. M. and M.B.
and a coat of arms. There are no initials or arms on the old building
itself, and no date on the sun dial.

The property originally belonged to Alexander Cunningham of
Polmaise, Militis and Lord of the Barony of Polmaise Cunningham,
of which it formed a part, and was sold conform to disposition dated
6th June, 1508, by his son and heir, Robert Cunningham, to Robert
Bruce, burgess of Stirling, and Margaret Sandilands, his spouse, and
the longest liver, and the heirs of their body, whom failing, to the said
Robert Bruce's own heirs. He was Provost of Stirling in 1555, and
appears as a witness to a deed by John Cunningham of Polmaise of
Livilands, dated 31st May, 1556. He seems to have been succeeded
by his son John, some time previous to 1587, and on his death, Alex-
ander, his son, on 2nd April, 1631, succeeded to the estate; who, in
turn, was succeeded by Robert Bruce some time before 1660, when he
appears in St. Ninian's Kirk Session Minutes as getting two seats
alloted to him in that kirk ; and in September following, in consequence
of complaints, is ordered to remove the rails he had put up on his pew.

•3!V-'

• '%V\V

~v.i'-*-vs

' A*

■3
i

■3'

j'..-^\«S8S

BRUCE S COUNTRY MANSION.

219

Robert Bruce was succeeded on 10th July, 1694, by Janet Bruce,
who took up the succession as heiress of tailzie and provision, and she
was on October, 1708, succeeded by her sister, Margaret Bruce, who
married Major-General George Munro, and their son, John, then takes
up the succession. He died about 1788, when his two daughters,
Janet, widow of George Home of Argaty, and Isobel, spouse of Ninian
Lowis, captain of the Woodcot, East Indiaman, succeeded jointly as
heiresses-portioners. Janet seems
to have transferred her pro indiviso
half to her sister, Mrs. Lowis, and
the estate, thus acquired, has re-
mained in the Lowis family.

There may be old parts of the
more ancient mansion of 1508 in-
corporated with the present house
not visible externally, but its style
and appearance, as shewn on the
sketch, is more that of the middle
or end of the seventeenth century.
It was probably greatly altered and
modernised by Margaret Bruce,
whose initials and arms quartered
with those of her husband, George
Munro, appear on the old sun dial
on the lawn.

^ ^liKUuuui^uin'uWil'iiii:' 1 'luuuiiniBUiailv

*%>*!

£>l

d~Lo^lL, CM i<-c-^C«,*t-6Lp-

Om^-.

CHAPTER XXII.

Bruce's Castle, Old Carnock.

r\UINED, ivy-clad Tower, on a rocky eminence
"^ in the grounds of Mr. Shaw of Carnock, and
situated about half-a-mile west of Airth station, is
all that remains of Bruce's Castle. It is squarely
built with regular courses of large, chiselled freestones,
measures 50 feet by 40 feet externally, with walls of
the great thickness of 6 feet, and is entered by a small, lancet-shaped
doorway (sketch above) in its east wall, which Grose, in his Antiquities
of Scotland (1790), says had an iron gate, removed by the owner,

222

ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

Mr. Nicolson, shortly before, to form the door of a servant's house.
The approach has been by the east side, where evidences of the
old roadway exist, and is a gradual ascent from the plain, to which the
other three sides descend abruptly. The highest parts of the walls are
the north and east sides of the tower, shewn in the sketch below.

c)w.cuuto. o-

/ 13 «

~(sx*~>zJjL*~,

BRUCE S CASTLE, OLD CARNOCK. 223

There are only a few feet standing on the other sides, but the fallen
stones and accumulated soil and vegetation cover up part of these and
block the entrance by the doorway.

The interior accommodation consisted of three flats of large single
apartments. The ground floor and that immediately above it are
vaulted, the former being subdivided into some recesses — probably the
store rooms, well, etc. Although on an eminence, the situation of the
Castle is not easily discovered, as the ruins are closely surrounded by
trees. Grose exhibits, in his sketch of the ruins, which is otherwise not
quite accurate, the hill bare of trees, and these have since been planted.

No coat of arms, initials, or date, or even sculptured stone, except
the doorway and the finely finished pillars, or jambs, of the chimney-
piece, in the north wall of the second storey, are visible. In
design these pillars are exactly similar to those in the chimney of
the hall in Sauchie Tower (sketch, page 226), to which building this
Castle has a most remarkable resemblance, and may have been built
by the same architect, as their ages correspond. There are two masses
of masonry on the south or lower side of the mound, which may have
been the gate tower in the surrounding wall, but no evidence of a con-
necting wall is visible. Dr. Rogers describes the Tower as round.
This mistake could not have occurred if he had visited the spot.

The lands of Erth and Slamannan, of which anciently Carnock
formed a part, were given by David II., by charter dated 7th April,
1365, as his dower to Isabella, Lady Fyfe, on her marriage with Thomas
Byset, Lord Upsethynton. About a century afterwards they were
owned by William de Erth, whose daughters succeeding as heiresses-
portioners, married, and carried with them their divisions of the family
estate to their husbands. One division passed to an ancestor of Alex-

224 ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITV.

ander Drummond of Arnmore, who married a Marjorie Bruce ; and
the other division was sold by Agnes Erth to Alexander Forestare of
Torwood. The part on which the Castle stands was acquired by Alex-
ander Hepburn by marriage with Mariote Normavil, and predeceased
his spouse, who appears infeft in it, and in her lands of Gargunnock
and others, with the title of " Lady Gargunnock."

On 31st May, 1480, James III. grants a charter to Alexander
Hepburn, son and heir-apparent of Mariote Norvale, inter alia, of the
lands of Carnock, reserving to her her liferent, but excepting and
saving therefrom the right of her son to "the Tower and Fcrtalice of
Carnok and the ^"20 lands next adjoining thereto," — the latter being
apparently the policies and park, etc., necessary for its proper occupation.
Thus Alexander Hepburn or his son must have built the Tower, as
the family's principal residence seems to have been Gargunnock.

The succession of Lady Gargunnock and her son was challenged
both by David Graham, designed also as of Gargunnock, and by Alex-
ander Seton of Tulibody, who had at different times taken forcible
possession of Carnock Castle and Gargunnock mansion house. In an
action in the Court of Session, in 1489 (the abbot of Cambuskenneth
being one of the judges), Alexander Hepburn, son and heir of Alex-
ander Hepburn, appears and complains of Graham's " wrangis destruc-
tion of his tour and place of Carnok, and ye taking away of ye irn yet
of ye same, and for destruction of his place of Gargunok, and ye wod
of ye same, and also with holding of a horse and harness and uther
gudes of areship " (with the land the heir was also entitled to the best
of every article of the deceased's moveables from the executor, as
heirship-moveables). Decreet was given against Graham by default.
The "irn yet" is probably that above referred to as removed from

BRUGES CASTLE, OLD CARNOCK. 225

the doorway of this Tower by Mr. Nicolson, to which Graham had
restored it.

On 28th February, 1492, the Lords, in another process by " Laidy
Gargunnock " against Alexander Seton, decrees that for " aucht that
they haf yet sene, Alexander Seton of Tulibody shal decist and cese
fra the vexacion and distrubling of Marioun Norwell, Laidy of Gar-
gunok, in the broiking and joysing of her place and lands of Gargunok
and Carnok." This did not apparently end the dispute as, on 27th
June, 1494, Alexander Seton appears against Alexander Hepburn for
" wrangis occupation and manuring of Mains of Cranok."

On 19th June, 1510, Alexander Hepburn, who died childless, was
succeeded by his two sisters. One of them, Margaret, married to
Walter Sellar, then sold her half to Alexander, Lord Elphinston, along
with other lands in Fyfe. These Lord Elphinston transferred to his
son, William Elphinston and Elizabeth Trumbule, his spouse, on 31st
March, 151 1. The other sister, Marjorie, having died childless and
without heirs, her share fell to the King as ultima hczres, and was, on
13th July, 1 53 1, granted by him to a William Wod de Bonynton.
This seems, however, only a security title.

In January, 15 19, Robert Bruce appears in the Registers as pro-
prietor of Carnock. A relative, Marjorie Bruce, along with her husband,
Alexander Drummond, executes an entail in their own favour in life-
rent, and their son, Robert, in fee, of the lands of Carnock, with the
Tower, Fortalice, orchard, dovecots, coal pits, etc. Robert, by deed of
entail, dated 1 57 1 , executed another deed of entail through his children
in their order of seniority, by which Robert Drummond, his son, suc-
ceeded to the whole estate. This Robert was Master of Works for
Scotland, and built the old mansion of North Carnock, which bears his

2 26 ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

initials, with those of his wife, and the date 1584 (see chapter thereon).
The original Castle, as their residence, and the ownership of the whole
lands was thus merged in the Drummond family, whose successors still
hold them.

The name of Bruce Castle given to Old Carnock was probably to
distinguish it from Drummond's newer mansion called Carnock, for
certainly it was built previous to Bruce's ownership.

rt<Sl^£^L.lLcXJ^.<L-) j£) a-i*~cJ4^i_it^ c) o~Ua-es^.

CHAPTER XXIII.

Old Kinnaird Mansion

r\OES not seem to date back beyond the middle of the eighteenth
*"^ century ; parts of it, perhaps, to the early seventeenth century,
when Master Robert Bruce held the estate. An older house must have
existed on its site and been partly incorporated with it, but in conse-
quence of its entire removal to provide a site for the present extensive,
palatial edifice, there is now no evidence available.

The estate is stated to have been granted by Sir Alexander Bruce
of Airth to his youngest son, Robert Bruce, an eminent clergyman,
born in 1599 (1559?), and stated to have died in 1638, at yy years of
age. His son, Robert Bruce, is infeft in Kinnaird as heir of Master
Robert Bruce, on 20th October, 1638, which gives about the date of
the latter's death. On 3rd January, 1655, Alexander is infeft as heir of
Robert Bruce, younger, his brother-german, in the lands, and he was
succeeded by James Bruce, the famous scholar and traveller, who was
born in 1730, and was killed by a fall on the staircase of Kinnaird in

2 28 ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

April, 1794. His grandfather was David Hay of Woodcot, who,
marrying Helen, the heiress of Alexander, took his wife's name of
Bruce, and he was succeeded by their son, David Bruce, the father of
the Abyssinian traveller. In November, 1788, James appears in an
agreement with Sir Thomas Dundas, in straightening their respective
marches. He was succeeded by James Bruce, who in 1802, is entered
in Windyedge and part of Quarrel on a precept of Clare Constat from
the said Sir Thomas Dundas.

James, the traveller, in early life had before his travels, married
Miss Allan in 1754, who died shortly after. On his return from
London, indignant and disgusted at his treatment, and at being dis-
credited by the ignorant nobility and even some savants, he occupied
himself in rebuilding his house in 1776. He married Mary, daughter
of his neighbour, Sir Thomas Dundas, who was very much his junior,
and died in 1785. Local anecdotes of the traveller recently lingered
about the district, and vivid remembrance of his strong, masculine
physique (he was 6 feet 4 inches and correspondingly built) gave rise to
jokes about his horse's burden when passing the villagers in his daily
rides.

There must be noticed a magnificent broad avenue, lined on both
sides by unbroken rows of stately elms, extending in a long vista to
the mansion, and an artificial pool near by. In the adjacent, large
garden two gigantic planes growing side by side, with a rustic seat
between, were planted by the eminent divine, Master Robert, as repre-
senting his wife and himself, in commemoration of their marriage.

The sun dial (sketch, page 231) was erected in the garden by the
Traveller, and bears the date, 22nd June, 1792, and inscription—
"yesterday is past: to-morrow is not thine. Qua redit rescitis

OLD KINNAIRD MANSION.

231

koram." The vase (sketch, page 227) formed the finial to the facade
of the mansion now demolished. A room in the former, replaced by
one in the present mansion, is, we believe, used as a museum for the
spoils and collections of the Traveller, the fruits of his wanderings in
foreign lands.

W'-iii'mrmmiuiiiMliiiiimW1 /!},,;|

2^2

ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

Several historians of the life of Master Robert Bruce are erroneous
in their dates. One of the oldest tombstones in Larbert churchyard
(sketch below, taken after this chapter was printed) has the date 1631,
the initials, M.R. B., and the Bruce coat of arms. An accompanying
tablet records that "Master Robert Bruce, born in 1554, died in 1631,
aged yy, was second son of Sir Alexander Bruce of Airth and Janet,
daughter of fifth Lord Livingston, and his remains are interred at the
foot of the pulpit of the first church in Larbert, which he built, and
from which he sought to make known the truth as in Christ," — referring
doubtless to the Latin motto surrounding his arms. Not a stone of
this first church remains.

CHAPTER AAIV.

Stenhouse (anciently Stanehouse)

Mansion

I— i RRONEOUSLY named Staniland in Pont's Map, is about two
^^* miles north east of Larbert, and, as shewn by the sketch on
page 235, is a beautiful type of the Baronial style of architecture of the
seventeenth century. It may have been built on the site of, or incor-
porated with an earlier mansion, as the Bruce's possession goes back
at least to 141 7. It was erected by Sir William Bruce, second baronet,
who married Dame Helen Douglas, whose initials, with her coat of arms
impaled, and date, 1655, omitted in copying sketch, appear on the old
tablet of which we give a sketch on page 238. This tablet had been
removed from above the old doorway in the tower when the recent
alterations and new porch were built, and re-inserted in the front of the
main building-.

The ground plan is in the form of an L, and the building, although
small, has all the characteristics of the Baronial style in its purity —
the corner turrets and tower having conical roofs, the main houses with
high-pitched roofs and crow -stepped gables, and two superiorly
sculptured dormers, etc. The dormer forming the sketch on page 233
is exactly similar to that on what is alleged to be Elphinston's town
house, Broad Street, Stirling (page 177).

Dr. Bonar, in his Statistical Account of the parish, gives the date
as 1622, and that the mansion was erected by Sir William, the first
baronet, but the inscribed tablet bears the above date and owner.

The surrounding park has some clumps of fine old timber, which
also lines the avenue, and, with the picturesque appearance to which
the Scottish Baronial style lends itself, makes this mansion with its
surroundings interesting.

The ownership of the Bruce family dates back, it is said, to 141 7,
when a Robert Bruce, descendant of Bruce of Clackmannan, married
Agnes, a daughter and co-heiress of Sir William Airth of Airth, and
obtained that portion of Airth estate, now Stenhouse, with her. A son,
Sir Robert, married Janet, daughter of fifth Lord Livingston. His
son Sir Alexander (William ?) married Margaret, daughter of Sir
Malcolm Forrester of Torwood, whose son John was the John Broys
of Stanehouse referred to in the Registers, on 3rd February, 1478, as
appearing as a vassal before Sir William Charteris of Cagnoir
(Chartershall) and "craved the said Sir William to replege a certain
man to his court." Sir John married Elizabeth, daughter of Menteith
of Kerse.

Previous to i5ro, the lands seem to have been subdivided, one
half being held by George Sinclair of Roslyn and his wife, Agnes

4c-a,£, pfx> c$_ K~^Lo~i<^ ,

STENHOUSE MANSION. 2

Crichton, and included part of Quarrel. Oliver Sinclair, and ultimately
William Sinclair of Herbertshire, succeeded to this portion, the latter
obtaining a charter from James VI. on 28th October, 1583. Sir
William Bruce, first baronet, succeeded to the other half, on which the
mansion is built, on 28th June, 161 1, and was created Baronet of Nova
Scotia on 26th June, 1629. He married Rachel, daughter of Joseph
Johnston of Hilton. Their eldest son, Sir William, the second baronet,
mentioned above as the builder of the mansion, succeeded them. His

wife was Helen, daughter of Sir William Douglas of Cavers — the

S D

initials , ^ ^ and H ' with coat of arms, on the old tablet described

above, representing their names and family bearings. Sir William was
a man of learning and parts, and a favourite of Charles I., but on that
king's death, he joined the Parliamentary Party, and formed one of that
faction in Stirlingshire for the kingdom's defence in 1649. His son,
Sir William, the third baronet, married Margaret, daughter of his
neighbour, Elphinston of Quarrel ; and their son, Sir William, fourth
baronet, married Margaret, daughter of John Boyd. He was succeeded
by his second son, Sir Robert, who died unmarried, and was succeeded
by Sir Michael, who married Mary, daughter of Sir Andrew Agnew,
and died in 1795.

Sir Michael was a beneficent laird to his tenants and to the
inhabitants of his parish — one act being the voluntary assessing him-
self, along with other four heritors, in 30s. per £ of old Scots rental of
his estate in a year of famine and distress, for their relief, and, in addi-
tion, he imported large quantities of grain, which he sold to them below
the market value. On 20th June, 1 79 1 , he acquired from John
Dundas the lands of Slamannan, muir, and mill, which Mr. Dundas
had purchased in 1791. On 1st November, 1796, Sir William, his

238

ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

eldest son, succeeded to the estates as heir, on a Precept of Clare from
William Forbes, proprietor of Callendar estate, the superior.

This estate which had remained in the ancient Bruce family for
five centuries was sold, about twenty years ago, to Mr. Sheriff of
Carronvale, who still possesses it.

tf>pmunuiinu»iiH!H\iinguuruTTi»UM "'"'"nTEr. —

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/* Jtft IP!'*.: I I ft iMifipi

CHAPTER AAV.

Clackmannan Tower.

™*HIS conspicuous feudal edifice, predominating over the valley of
the Forth, is stated to have been erected by King Robert the
Bruce as a hunting-seat, and it descended to his successors the Broys
of Clackmannan, his other kinsmen being the Bruces of Airth, Kinnet,
Carnock, and Auchenbowy. The Tower was visible from, and could
exchange signals with, the castles of these members of the family. The
two-handed sword and helmet of the King is still preserved as evidence
of the royal connection.

2/J.O ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

The Tower is 79 feet high, and has indications of a moat and
drawbridge on the south-east front, and standing as it does on the
highest point of a cone-shaped hill, commands an extensive prospect.
It is said to date back to the fifteenth century, and is built on the keep
plan, universal at that time. The semicircular doorway, ornamented
cornices, and pediment with vases at each end and apex, denote a later
period than the building itself, and is stated to be of the Renaissance,
and the belfry, drawbridge, and moat, of the seventeenth century. The
ground floor has vaulted roof, guard room, recesses, and closets. The
first floor contains the kitchen, with chimney 9 feet wide, and large
rooms in different towers (there are virtually two). One of these rooms
has a fireplace with magnificently carved and moulded jambs, and the
other shews a wall press behind, while each has window recesses with
slabs to seat four persons on either side. The timber floors are all
gone, but the fireplaces are visible in the gables, and this part is the
home of a colony of bats. There is a peculiarity in the machicolations
supporting the parapet of the battlements, these forming open spaces
through which stones, boiling lead, etc., could be thrown on the heads
of escaladers. The usual corner turrets overlooking the weaker
defences are a wanting, except the square hanging tower, with machico-
lations, over and commanding the front doorway. There are remains
of a doorway in the wall of the south-east court, which is small and of
an ornamental character similar to that of the main entrance. From
the high position of the Tower, no water could be available to keep the
ditch filled for any appreciable defensive purpose.

The Towers, of which east and west views are given, are both
roomy and could accommodate a large family and retainers, with suffi-
cient provisions for a siege. A small belfrey and brazier, for signalling
or warning by night or day, surmount the roof.

■4,

CLACKMANNAN TOWER. 243

The town of Clackmannan, with its ancient town house, cross, and
traditionary stone, is interesting. As lords of the barony, the cross
contains the Bruce arms — a saltier.

The first mention I have of the Bruces of Clackmannan is in 1359,
when Robert Bruce, first Baron of Clackmannan, gets a charter from
David II. of the Castle and Manor of Clackmannan as delecto et
fidelii suo consanguineo Roberti Brtice ; and in a decreet on a sub-
mission to Thomas, Lord Erskine, and others, to settle a dispute
between the two relatives, David Broys of Clackmannan and David
Broys of Kennet, as to the claim of the former to hold his relative
astricted to his mill of Clackmannan, dated 21st January, 1481 ; and
Kennet " consented for his life to come to the said mill."

From a charter dated 14th April, 1674, in favour of David Bruce
de Clackmannan, as heir of Sir Hendrie Bruce de Clackmannan, the
family high offices and lands then held included the lands and Barony
of Clackmannan, etc., office of Sheriff and of Forester of the Sheriffdom
of Clackmannan, with the free customs of Bartholomew Fair of Clack-
mannan, all erected into a Burgh of Barony in the county of Clack-
mannan. The latter office is significant of the tradition of the Tower
having been a hunting lodge and the neighbourhood a forest for deer
stalking, hawking, etc.

The Earl of Elgin, a descendant of the Bruces, now holds the
Tower and lands.

fen*

„i#

^5»>4

'^'. ' =^§i£S

•fy0LsJL±.t.

CHAPTER AAVI.

Qarlett or Garland [Mansion.

^^ INGLE two-storey, crow-stepped, gabled and
^-^ tyled house, is situated at the base of a tree
covered embankment, about ten minutes' walk from
Kilbao-ie station. It has a front stable or facade,
giving it an architectural interest, and had vaulted
V underground chambers, or cellars, now filled up.
A low terrace and garden in front faces the south.

246 ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

The facade is ornamental in appearance, has three small windows in
the top (one of them circular), two larger windows, with a vacant niche
for coat of arms between them, in the second storey, and a deep cornice
or frieze projecting over a moulded doorway, with two flanking
windows, on the ground floor. The internal work and fittings are
uninteresting, and shew no superior furnishings, at any time, beyond
those of a modest mansion or simple dwelling. The house has been
divided and occupied by workmen. One of two original gate pillars,
of fine workmanship, remains attached to the west gable.

The owner, Lord Balfour, can furnish no history of its origin or
builder, nor of the coat of arms amissing, but says it was the mansion
house of an original small estate of that name belonging to the Bruce
family.

In a charter, dated 2nd March, 1670, Alexander gets a conveyance
of the lands from his father, Master Robert Bruce of Kennet, and in
another, dated 29th January, 1684, it is described as " et terras de
Garlett cum decimus" and was then undivided. It first appears divided
in the person of an Alexander Bruce, described as of Garland (its
subsequent name), and in January, 1728, James Bruce of Barbadoes is
served heir to his sister Mary, daughter of Alexander Bruce of Garland;
and on the same date, William Bruce, son of Alexander Bruce, surgeon,
is served heir of conquest to his grandfather, David Bruce, son of Alex-
ander Bruce of Garland. This shews that David Bruce of Garland
purchased or acquired this estate otherwise than by hereditary succession.

The style and character of the house points to its erection during
a peaceful period of the country's history, as it has no barriers of
defence, either of situation or wall strength, for protection against
marauders. It certainly is not earlier than the last decade of the seven-

GARLETT OR GARLAND MANSION.

'47

teenth century, and was never more than a modest residence, fit only
for the cadet of the influential family of the Bruces. It was probably
built by Alexander Bruce, the first. The coat of arms, if found, would
assist in the identification of the builder, there being no date nor initials
on the building to prove that.

> GL. n^ K_ O- C- «

C-O-Cut O-fr- CL^XJ'K---

CHAPTER AAVII.

Carnock Plansion.

"HE name Kernock, Crannock, and Carnock, derived from Saint

* Kentigern, arises from a pretty legend that on this spot the Saint

rested with the corpse of "the venerable man, Fregus," on his way

from Culross to Glasgow for its interment in the ground on which the

Cathedral, dedicated to this Saint, was afterwards erected. He laid the

25°

ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY

body in a new wain, drawn by two untamed bulls left to their own will,
and so was guided by them to Glasgow. The tradition is verified by
the remains of an old chapel within a hundred yards of this mansion,
which dates beyond 1523, and is named Carnock, fragments of which
(the holy water font, and one or two door and window lintels) are still
to be seen.

The estate dates back to the time of James III., when William,
eldest son of Lord Drummond of Stobhall and Cargill (whose sister,
the beautiful Annabella Drummond, was consort to that King) married
a daughter of the Baron of Airth, who received Carnock as her dower.
This is the origin of the Drummond family's possession, and from it

proceeded the branch of Hawthornden. David
Drummond, his son, succeeded him, and in 1476
he is shewn as presenting a charter of the lands
of Erthbeg, part of Airth estate, to his son Robert,
and at the same time he gives sasine of a 42s. land
of Carnock to Alexander Cunningham of Auchen-
bowie and Mariota, for her life time ; and we
have Robert, the heir apparent, protesting against
his father's deed. This Robert appears, in
Muthill parish in 1479, as one of several witnesses
to the marriage of another Annabella Drummond, a relative, to William,
Lord de Graham.

In 1482, a curious testamentary agreement is recorded between
Sir David Drummond and a priest at St. Ninians, Sir Andrew Millar,
who surrenders all his goods to David, who, in return, obliges himself
to support his executors in the ingathering of Sir Andrew's debts.

, ,'k.vi, ,

CARNOCK MANSION.

25.

The original building seems to have consisted of two square
towers with pepper-box turrets, connected by an intervening building,
and by subsequent alterations the embattlements were almost erased,
and the roofs added to the towers. In 1827, the alterations tending
to the modernising of the mansion were continued, and the stable
wing along with the porch added. The original parts, however, of
the old building, with its 4 feet thick walls, high-pitched roof, and
crow-stepped gables, and turrets, make it an interesting and pictur-
esque type of a nobleman's residence of the early part of the sixteenth
century.

The ancient doorway covered by the porch,
with its thick oak, iron-knobbed door, remains. This
door is unique in respect that it has near the bottom
a singular small wicket-door or panel, about 1 foot E1! u"1'" '^^'^jl
square, on hinges, with a strong lock, as shewn in
this sketch. Its purpose at that place is not obvious.

The most ancient of the coats of arms is in a
panel over the present doorway (sketch, page 249).
It contains, in addition to the combined Drummond
and Elphinston arms, on a scroll the letters R.D.
and M.E., which represent Robert Drummond and his wife, Margaret
Elphinston, and on the ledge of the moulding, R.D. and date 1548.
The lettering on panel reads —

4}! -? ., <" *>

fr .-for* '««

w
I
I

PUT NO YE SOE INTO OFF YE LADY
AND GIF YE DOE YE SEL REPENT.

This legend or aphorism is mysterious, and no explanation of its inser-
tion nor of the personality of the lady occasioning the inscription is

254 ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

available. The above initials represent the builder, Sir Robert Drum-
f ft mond, and the apparent date of the erection

of this mansion. Sir Robert Drummond was
Master Mason for Scotland, having been ap-
pointed on 6th April, 1579, and we find him
engaged, amongst other work, in 1581, making
extensive repairs on Doune Castle, the Queen's
_^ former residence. He seems to have been a
gifted gentleman, and was an attendant at the
Court. In 1 550 he appears as one of the curators
of his nephew, Lord Elphinston, before the

Regent Moray, obtaining sasine for his ward and his wife, Margaret

Drummond, of the lands of Kildrummie.

In a subsequent Deed of Commission the curatory or supervision

was continued for the reason given that Robert, Lord Elphinston, "had

simpairt hurt his leiving and heritadge by reason of his youtheid," and

two of his three commissioners' consent was required to selling or

wadsetti ng his lands.

Sir Alexander Drummond, militis, seemed

to have succeeded to Carnock, and in 1627, John

Drummond, his son, is served as heir in the lands

of Malor MacNab and others in the Barony of

Carnock. In 1630, this John Drummond, who

also held Bannockburn and Skeoch, sold these to

John Rollo, along with the burial place on the

. % jJM1 Jfl

north side of the choir and the seat in the '^"("^(jf "^Sm
ancient church of St. Ninians, " \ \

In 1634, Sir Thomas Nicolson, who acquired Carnock from him,

carnock mansion.

^55

made the extensive alterations and erected the six fine dormer
windows with their heraldic insignia, on the
south. He was succeeded, in 1646, by his
son, also Sir Thomas, and in the royal charter of
confirmation the description includes the Tower
and the Mill of Carnock, and the " Myln quarter
and Mill, Manor, and Place of Plane." On
28th September, 1664, Sir Thomas Nicolson,
the third Baronet, is served heir to his father,
Sir Thomas, not only in the lands and Barony
of Carnock, with the Tower of Carnock, but also to the above
lands and Barony of Plane, Easter and Wester Craigquarter, etc. On
29th January, 1684, he succeeds to his uncle, Archibald, Lord Napier,
and to the lands of Ruskie, etc., and fishings on the Teith. On
6th September, 1686, the lands are subdivided to his daughters, who
succeed as heiresses-portioners of Thomas, Lord Napier, nephew of
their father, viz., Dame Helen Nicolson, spouse of John Shaw, junior,

of Greenock, Dame Isabella Nicolson, spouse of
James Dunbar of Mochram, and Dame Margaret
Nicolson, spouse of James Hamilton of Moncrieff.
The estate thus came into the Shaw family, and
is now owned by a grandson of Dame Helen,
viz., Michael Shaw Stewart, Esquire, M.P.

At the " Bell Races " in Stirling, on Peace
Tuesday, 12th April, 1661, John Drummond of
Carnock, having won eight bells of silver (weight
8 ounces) at the bell race, between Stirling and
Bannockburn, Mr. Thomas Rollok, younger, burgess, becomes cautioner

JlIP

256

ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY

that he will redeliver them to be run for again the next Peace Tuesday,
under pain of 500 merks. The origin of the term "to bear the bell "
is here revealed.

Gcl^-C c-o« n^A^e^^L, &-£- 1i^i<~cL.<^LA^cL- .

CHAPTER AAVI11.
Part 1.

Provost Sir dames Stirling of Keir's
Town Ludging.

^1 IR JAMES was Provost of Stirling from 1559 to 1561 (at that
^-* time an office of ambition to our local nobility), and again in
1563, and occupied a seat at the civic board as a councillor in the inter-
mediate years. He exercised his influence in many instances to the
benefit of the town, notably in obtaining from Queen Mary the charter
of 15th April, 1567, of the church lands and endowments, including
those of the Preaching and Franciscan Friars, to the considerable
augmentation of the common good. His ancestors had a long and
close connection with the town. The official dress of the Provost, says
Dr. Rogers, was a black gown, tied under the chin, wrapped round the
shoulders, narrow at the top and increasing to the ground, with bands
like a clergyman.

258 ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

Provost Sir James resided, and some of his children were born, in
the family residence. Its situation at the east corner of the foot of
Broad Street, is identified in James V.'s charter of 22nd Nov., 1526,
forfeiting- Keir estates, in which it is included and described as at the
end, or foot, of the King's highway, and from the Town Council order,
dated 30th May, 1614, that: " Na inhabitant build their biggings out
upon the King's hie causeway, etc., especially fra Bell's yet to the Laird
of Keir's ludoingr on baith sides of the gait ; " further, that it was a col-
lection of buildings the whole length of the close No. 20 Broad Street,
to the garden behind, having a frontage to the " King's hie causeway."

This property was held by the Keir family until 1659. when Sir
William Stirling sold it to David More of Leckie, by disposition,
dated 2nd January of that year. The extent and composition of the pro-
perty is shewn from its description therein : " That ludging or tenement
of land and booths thereof, with yairds and hail pertinents of the same,
lying betwixt, etc., the land sometime pertaining to the deceased Robert
Cousland, now to the heirs of John Stevenson and Robert Russel,
merchant, on the south ; the land sometime pertaining to Alexander
Erskine of Cangloir, thereafter to Thomas, Earl of Kellie, and now to
Jonet Kilbowie (the old Sheriff Clerk's office), on the north ; and the
High Street on the west parts." The remains of the ancient parts of
the building are visible, notably a square gable or projection similar to
Forrester of Logie's ludging (page 157), but the accompanying turret
has been removed as an obstruction, and the ground floor, all vaulted,
are now utilised as grocer's cellars. The sketch opposite shows the
most complete of these ancient buildings, the dormer windows only
having been modernised.

Sir James was married three times, first, to Janet Stirling of

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i

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ONRUSH 'r -. ^>m#

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KEIR MANSION HOUSE.

26l

Cawdor (divorced, January, 1541), next, to Jane Chisholm "cousignes,"
but really illegitimate daughter, to William Chisholm, Bishop of Dun-
blane, and the third, unnamed, on 5th March, 1542. He died at his
Calder estate, which he got by his first wife, on 3rd February, 1588, his
widow and second son, Archibald, being his executors. Sir Archibald
succeeded him in Keir, and married Grizel Ross, daughter of Dame
Jean Semple, Lady Ross, in 1589. John, the eldest son, was served
heir in other lands. A sketch of Sir James' seal is given on page 265.
Mr. Stirling, the present laird, informs me that no portrait of Sir James
exists, but we saw one of his daughter at Keir House.

« 1 ♦ 1 »

Part 2.

Keir Mansion House.

the ancestor, Lucas of Striveling, pur-
chased the estate whence originated
the surname, from Georg-e Leslie of that
ilk, sometime between 1370 and 1449, there
must have existed a very early mansion
house, or fortress, on this rocky knoll. The
character of that building, from its nomen-
clature in the writs of the estate, viz., the
Tower of Keir and Place of Keir, was a semi-fortress and mansion.
If originally a Tower previous to its destruction by James III. on
nth June, 1488, it must have been changed at its restoration then, as
James VI., on 25th May, 1568, in his operations against the rebel

262 ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

Lords, whom Sir James (the Provost) had again joined, orders him to
deliver up the House and Fortalice of Keir.

No part of that ancient house and fortalice is externally visible
in the numerous alterations and additions made in the last three
centuries, the last, and greatest, being its remodelling by the late
Sir William Stirling's father in 1830, and by Sir William himself in
i860. The sketch on page 263 is taken from an old print of 1783 —
the oldest drawing or print extant, to our knowledge — and from the style
of the elevation, the house would not be of earlier date than fifty
years previous thereto. The burning of the Tower in 1488 was
caused by William Stirling having espoused the cause of the Nobles,
headed by Prince James against his father James III. Shortly before
Sauchieburn, and after a skirmish with the royal forces, the Prince took
refuge in the Tower, but was driven out, and the place burned to the
ground by his opponents.

On 7th January, 1489, after James IV.'s succession to the crown by
his father's assassination at Bethune's Mill, William Stirling is granted
a charter by the King, narrating that the Tower and Place of Keir*
had been burned under the evil advisors of his father when last at
Stirling, when the writs and evidences had been destroyed, and he had
therefore erected the lands into a Barony of Keir, in free blench for
payment (delivery ?) of a pair of gilt spurs at the Tower of Keir, on the
feast of St. John the Baptist ; and also knighted the laird. Again, on
28th October preceding, he grants ,£100 to William " for bigging of his
Place."

* Note. — William Keir was suspected of being one of the persons who pursued the King from
Sauchieburn Field and had a hand in his assassination at Bethune's Mill, in revenge for the destruction of
his house and goods. William Fraser, in his History of the Stirlings of Keir (185S) clears him of this
charge.

- -AV3f

KEIR MANSION HOUSE. 265

Provost Sir James Stirling was one of the two judges appointed
by James VI. to try Morton for his share in Darnley's murder, and he
pronounced him guilty and passed sentence of death. John, his eldest
son, was assassinated by Shaw of Cambusmore, at Stirling Bridge, in
1539. Shaw got a respite. Another son, James, was slain at Dun-
blane by William Sinclair, in a dispute about property there.

The estate of Keir was forfeited by the descendant, Sir James
Stirling's participation in the Rebellion of 1 7 1 5, and was purchased
from the Commissioners of forfeited estates, by his relatives, and res-
tored to his son. In this connection, several of the framed oil portraits
of the Stewart Kings and Princes preserved in Keir Mansion, pre-
sently bear evidence of the canvases having been cut from the frames
and subsequently restored and repaired, these having apparently been
rolled up and concealed during the search for acts of rebellion.

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Part 3.

Bardowie Castle,

\ VARIOUSLY named Pardowy and Perdowy, is a picturesque,
* crow-stepped gabled mansion of the sixteenth century, having a
square tower attached, on the banks of a deep lake of that name. It
seems not to have been of any strength or of extensive accommodation,
and was a Royal tenandry belonging to the family of Keir. It is
situated in the extreme west of the county, a few miles from Milngavie,

BARDOWIE CASTLE. 267

and within sight of Mugclock Castle. The sketch above, from a sketch
book of 1856, shews its southern side.

On 29th January, 1505, John Hamilton of Buthernok is confirmed
by James IV., on a charter from Matthew, Earl of Lennox, in the
lands of Buthernok, of which Bardowie forms a part, with Kincaid,
Birdstone, etc., in the Earldom of Lennox and Counties of Stirling and
Dumbarton — a witness to the charter being •' Master Robert Ham-
miltoun, rector of Baldernok." On 19th November, 1526, James V.,
for his good services, confirmed to James Hammyltoun de Fynart,
soldier, the lands of Bardowie and others above, which were seized
"from John Stirling, formerly of Keir, soldier, the King's immediate
tenant, but pertaining to the King by reason of his forisfactum and
lese Majesty ; " and sasine is to be taken at Bardowie House for all the
lands. On 13th January, 1 53 1 , the same King gives to James Ham-
myltoun de Fynart, formerly "our principal Sewar," and Margaret
Levingstoun, his spouse, along with numerous other lands, the Barony
of Uchiltree, the lands of Pardowie, etc., along with the advocation of
the church of " Beddernoch " (Baldernok), etc.

On 6th August, 1532, James V. re-grants to John Stirling of Keir
the lands of Pardowie, with toiver, fortalice, and lake of the same, and as
above, and all other lands of Allan Hammyltoun de Pardowie's, held off
James Hammyltoun of Fynart, with the mill and advocation of the
church of " Bothornok," in the county of Dumbarton. This may be
the superiority. Bardowie Mansion thus existed in 1526, and probably
had been erected by John Hamilton of Bothernok.

On 16th September, 1579, James VI. confirms to Archibald Stir-
ling, his second son, a charter of Sir James Stirling's, conveying the lands
of Keir and others, in which is included the lands of Bardowy, with the

;63

ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

tower, fortalice, and lake, and right of patronage of the rectorship
thereof, etc. — Sir James Stirling reserving a free liferent, and the deed
is dated at Keir, 15th September, 1579. Conveyances of the paternal
estates by the nobility during their lifetime to their sons, reserving a
life-rent, was a common mediaeval custom.

CHAPTER AAIA.

3rnhall Ruined Mansion.

^1 MALL, square, roofless tower, having turrets
^-^ at its angles, and walls nearly hid by the
luxuriant ivy and brushwood, stands solitary in a
park forming part of Keir policies, and about 400
yards west of that mansion. It bears the date
161 7, but has no initials or coat of arms, yet it can
be traced to have belonged to the Dow family, and must have been built
by Harry Dow, aftermentioned. The attached buildings and walls of
a small court have been converted into cattle sheds. It is said that the
house had an addition made to it in 1680. The mansion, with its

270

ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

accompanying grounds, subsequently belonged to the Athole family,
and is stated to have formed the dowager-house of a Duchess of Athole.
The above Harry Dow, in his old age, made a gift of 300 merks
to the Kirk Session of Stirling, which, with a letter, was presented by
his son John, on 30th March, 1647, and is thus recorded in the Session
books as being thankfully received : —

"Because I had my educatione in my youthheid within the toun of Striviling at
Skooles and learning of guid exerceisses, to the glorie of God, and in tokin of thankful
remembrance to the place, I haiff gawin and bestowit thrie hundreth merkis money for
help to the stock and provisione off the auld Hospittall at Striviling, callit Spittillis Hos-
pitall, and for a suppliement to the entertainment to the indigent and misterful peopill
remaining thair at present, and to cum, which hoping will be accepat in guid pairte.
Gewand all praise to God Almyhtie, and still praying for his mercie and remissione off
my sins, through the righteous mentis off his blissed sone Jesus Christ, my onlie Saviour
— Just waiting for the tyme that he salbe pleasit to mak the seperatioune.

"August, 1645, to be presentit to the Kirk Session of Striviling.

" H. Dow of Arnehall."

CHAPTER AAA.

Woodside (Glenbervie) Mansions.

/*^F the three Mansions of Woodside succeeding each other, there
^-^ exists only the most ancient — a roofless, plain, ivy-clad building
— and the present, comparatively modern, handsome mansion, in the

ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

Tudor style, the intermediate house having been completely erased,
but we are able to give a sketch of it (page 275) taken from an old
pencil drawing.

MANOR PLACE OF WOODSIDE.

(Sketch below).

About a mile and a half west of Larbert, on the Stirling Road,
this mansion is shewn on Timothy Pont's Map of 1654 as being within
the boundary and on the north edge of the very ancient and famous
Forest of Torwood. The ruins shew a plain, two-storey building, with
two crow-stepped gables, 54 feet by 20 feet, walls 2 feet thick, and

ANCIENT WOODSIDE MANSION.

273

an ogee cornice moulding round its upper ledge. Originally its accom-
modation seems to have been four apartments, an additional outshot
and wing having been subsequently added. On the ground floor in
the east gable is a remarkably wide-arched kitchen fireplace, which,
with a recess, occupies its whole width (sketch, page 271). The base-
ment windows bear the marks of iron bars, but otherwise the building-
has had no defence, and never was a place of strength. It is situated
near a small lake, and the
ruins are almost enveloped
with ivy and brushwood. On
the lintel of the west door
of the south side is the date

^^um^mm^k^^^^^ff^M and over tnat of tne door m

% ||3||| I the upper storey (it is entered

by an outside stair), on the

same side, is the monogram

of this sketch. The former is
'. 3|||3gfe= SIP •'KIP vlPiiS%li£=<i'
^'iH1)i;Miail(m(t^<(^i!i«SKi!ifts(i'ji(piiiiiiii)W!iiiinii)iiiMtfi7!Mnf))iM apparently the date 01 certain

alterations visible on the house made by Sir Henry Rollo ; the
latter being the monogram containing his initials and those of Mar-
garet Young, his wife. The tower of the stables adjoining has the
coat of arms forming the sketch, page 279, along with the comparatively
recent date 1758, being the arms or crest of the Strachen family of
Thornton, and refers to the possession of the estate by Mr. John
Strachen.

The ancient forest of Torwood, surrounding this old house at that
time, has long since receded, so to speak, and left this simple yeoman's
dwelling stranded and entirely shelterless on the open plain, near the

274 ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

old lake with its reduced waters. The rapid destruction of the trees
through natural decay and the lawless acts of the adjoining inhabitants,
in cutting down the saplings and slaying the royal deer, were subjects
of complaint, in 1637, against the hereditary keeper, Sir James
Forrester of Torwood Castle.

From the titles, the estate came to Mr. Henry Rollo by his mar-
riage with Dame Helen Elphinston, in 1636, having originally formed
part of the estate of Quarrel. In a charter, under the great seal,
recorded on 13th September of that year, of, inter alia, Woodside,
Larbertshiels, and Stanerigmill, in their favour, the destination, failing
children of the marriage, is to the heirs of the said Dame Helen, thus
shewing that the lands were that lady's, and were to return to her kin,
failing her children.

From its architecture and absence of the defensive arrangements
common to mansions in the early troublous times, and the appearance
of its weather-worn stones, this mansion shews a comparatively late
date. It is almost certain that Mr. Henry Rollo built it in 1636, the
year he came into the estate. John Rollo, the eldest son of the
marriage, succeeded on 6th April, 1654, and was infeft and the estate
erected into a free tenandry, called the Tenandry of Larbertshiels, on
29th July, 1 66 1, sasine to be given to him at " the Manor Place of
Woodside." He was succeeded on 13th July, 1674, by his son, also
a Henry Rollo, afterwards created a baronet, who married Margaret
Young. Lord George Forrester of Torwoodheid augmented the estate
by five acres and eight acres respectively off Torwoodheid, in 17 10,
which were added to and enclosed by Sir Henry as part of the estate,
and he then built

MANSION HOUSE (No. 2).

(Sketch opposite).

ANCIENT WOODSlDE MANSION.

2/7

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fei &f^

*%te4'Ml£s*.

The above is a sketch of the lintel over the doorway of this
house, which had been preserved when the building was removed and
its stones used in the erection of the existing mansion, some forty years
ago. It contains Sir Henry's arms quartered, instead of, as is the
custom, impaled, with those of his spouse, Dame Margaret Young, ■' the
Rollo motto, " La Fortune passe partoute" and the date of erection,
1 710, with the initials S.H.R. and D.M.Y. on separate shields.

The original manor house, although altered only eighteen years
previously, seems to have been insufficient for their accommodation,
and was then abandoned. Its ruins are visible in the sketch (page 275),
shewing that this mansion was situated quite close to it.

On 15th May, 1724, Sir Henry and his spouse sold the estate,
"with the Manor Place of Woodside," to Sir George Dunbar, who
changed the name to Dunbar House, and added considerably to its
acreage. On 7th December, 1782, his trustees sold it to Mr. John
Strachen, who reverted to its original name, and added forty-six acres
off Banton to the lands. On 20th January, 1801, he sold it to David

* Note. — Sir J. Balfour Paul, to whose courteous assistance I am also otherwise indebted in identi
tying the arms and crests occurring in this work, describes it thus : " Rollo — a chevron between three
boars' heads. Young — three piles, each charged with an annulet. It is unusual to find the arms of a
man and his wife quartered. They are usually impaled, or, if the wife is an heiress, her coat is carried in
an escutcheon of pretence."

278 ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

Russel, Glasgow, who further added to the lands. His successor,
Lieutenant David Russel, in October, 1832, sold the estate to Sylvester
Douglas Stirling, who erected the present mansion, which is situated
on a hill some 600 yards to the south. He it was who demolished the
mansion built by Sir Henry Rollo, and of which not even a vestige of
of the foundations is visible — the door lintel alone being preserved.
From him, James Aitken, Esq. of Darroch, acquired and now possesses
the estate, and the preservation of the ancient relic is in safe hands.

Note. — Lowther in his "journall into Scotland," November, 1629, takes note of the Moss Slide at
Woodside thus: — "In Stirling, not far from the seaside, 15 miles, there is a gentleman's estate much
harmed by a strange outbreaking of the Water, on Christmas day in the afternoon, of 1628, in a moss
some 3 miles compass cast up and laid on good ground, which hath spoiled the gentleman, that mossy
ground now covering their arable so thick as to the top of the trees ; and the 3 miles compass out of
which it was cast suddenly up became a great lough which before was a dry moss." The small lake on
the banks of which old Woodside Mansion stands, is probably the reduced waters of the great lough out
of which the slide arose. The supernatural incident was treated as a national calamity and a special Act
of the Privy Council was issued, which, as containing a graphic account of the circumstances, in the quaint
language of the period, and its impression on the country, is interesting. For the annexed information
and copy I am indebted to Mr. Aitken :—

"Halyrudhous, 5 February, 1629.

" Forsameekle as in the month of under silence of night there hes fallin out by the unsearchable

providence of the Almightie God, whilk by no humane witt nor foresicht could be prevented, suche ane
fearefull suddane and unexpected accident lyke ane thunderclap upoun the lands of Powes and Powmylne
pertaining to David Rollock of Powes and Robert Johnstoun of Powmylne and upoun the lands perteaning
to Patrick Bruce of Corsebruike and Thomas Bruce of Woodsyde That the like wes never heard of in
anie kingdome or age In so farre as ane great and large mosse of the thicness of ane speir hes been driven
by the force and violence of wind and water fra the firme ground and bounds where from all beginning it
unmoveablie stood, to the lands of Powis and Powmylne and other lands of the personis foresaids distant
thairfra be the space of and hes overflowed and covered the saids whole lands and hes tane

ane solide firme and saltled stand thereon hes overturned the whole houses for the most pairt of the saids
lands so that twenty families were constrayned for lyffe and deid and with the extreme hazard of thair
lyves to flee and leave thair houses and all within the same to the violence of the mosse And now the
saids lands whilks wer good arable ground, bearing wheate, beir and all other grayne ar turned unto a
blacke mosse without all possibilitie or hope of recoverie, And the gentlemen awners of the lands, who
and thair predecessors wer men of good accompt able to serve the King and countrie and charitablie dis-
posed to the releefe of all distrest people ar upoun a suddane turned beggars having nothing bot the
miserable lace of a black mosse to looke unto in place of thair pleasant and fertile ground. And whereas

ANCIENT WOODSIDE MANSION.

279

this fearfull visitatioun hes proceedit immediatlie from the hand of God, whois divine chastisements must
with a christiane resolution be embraced and susteaned. It becometh all good Christians who are feeling
members of this bodie to resent the distresses and misereis of thir poore gentlemen, and by thair cheerefull
benevolence to contribute a pairt of thair means, whairwith it hes pleased God to blesse thaim towards
thair releefe. For whilk purpois the lords of Secreit Counsell hes recommendit, and be the tenour hereof
recommends the saids distrest gentlemen to the favourable charitable and christiane consideratioun of the
whole estaits both spirituall and temporall within this kingdome, and to the whole personis of whatsom-
ever ranke, qualitie or degree within the same, Requeisting and desyring thame and everie ane of thame
to extend suche proportioun of thair liberalise and charitie to the saids gentlemen as the importance and
necessitie of the caus requires, And the saids Lords hes committed and be the tenour hereof committs the
collectioun of this contribution and benevolence of the people to the personis particulate underwrittin
and to twa and twa of thame conjunctlie according as they ar here conjoyned and as they sail be directed
to the several! parts and corners of the countrie, viz. : etc." — Privy Council Acta, 1628-29, fol. 86.

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CHAPTER AAAI.

Old Bannockburn Mansion.

~*HIS interesting seventeenth century nobleman's country house
* (sketch, page 282) retains its ancient features, and the drawing,
taken about 1820, may stand for its present appearance — the porch
only being altered. The plan of the mansion is an inverted I ( hh ), the
stem being the main building, with the two limbs as wings — the west-
most containing the domestic offices. It faces Stirling Castle, of which,
however, being in a hollow, it has no view, and is situated on the east
edge of the field of Bannockburn, in a wood of some old timber.

>82

ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

The style of building is similar in most respects, although not so
rich, as the mansion of the Earl of Stirling, erected in 1632, especially
so in the design of porch and carvings of the twelve dormers. The
drive and lawn in front are flanked by two old silver firs, one of which
is shewn in the sketch, while two
old gateless pyramid pillars, and
beyond, an unbroken row of fine
lime trees finish the avenue. These,

with an aged chestnut called " the Man and Three Boys " in the woods
(a survivor of the ancient forest of Torwood), and a noble ceiling in the
old drawing-room of the mansion, form the most interesting parts. This

OLD BANNOCKBURN MANSION. 283

ceiling, uncommon in Scotland, is a work evidently of French art,
both in design and execution, and commands unqualified admiration.

The coat of arms being removed from the niche over the doorway,
and no initials or dates visible to assist the investigation of its date and
builder, there remains only the style of building and other circumstances
to verify this. As no mansion house appears on a map of 1654 of this
part of the county, and as the silver fir (only introduced into Scotland
in 1603) bears to have been planted at the erection of the mansion and
laying off the grounds and drive, so this would point to its erection
being about 1654, the builder being either Sir John Rollo or Andrew,
third Lord Rollo.

The lands, with Airth and Slamannan Muir, were originally a
grant by Robert the Bruce to a William Bisset, and it included goose
and well crofts ; and the ancient name is " Bannok," interpreted
" Whitehill." David II., in 1360, confirmed the grant to Thomas
Bisset, Lord Upsethynton and Lady Fyfe, his wife. In 1373, Robert II.
confirms this to Duncan Wallays (Wallace) and his wife, Eelionore de
Bruce, Countess of Carrick, the relict (1) of a son of Edward the Bruce,
the King's nephew, and (2) of James Sandilands, and, failing children,
to James Sandilands, her son. The lands are then called " Ochtir
Bannok." In 1489 the Sandilands family had endowed a chapel at the
well called "Tibermasko,"* the well of Ma-Skaw or Skeoch (St. Skeoch),
on Wellcroft at Stirling. The ruins remains, and are now called
St. Ninian's Chapel and Well (sketch, page 281). In 1584 the lands

* Note. — The chapel is thus described in a charter, dated 23rd August, 1510, by James IV. to
James Sandilands and his spouse, Mariota Forestar, of lands of Slamannan Muir, Erthbisset, and Ban-
nockburn — " el advocatione et donationc capellanie, capelle, St. Ninianii nuncaput, Tibermasko juxta
Burgttm de Strivelin."

284 ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

passed to Robert Drummond, who incorporated them in his Barony of
Carnock, and the name is changed to "Over Bannockburn." Sir John
Rollo purchased them about 1630, and his heir, the third Lord Rollo,
succeeded to them, acquiring also Skeoch and Cuthill and the right of
patronage not only to the chapel at " Tibermasko " but to Skeoch
Chapel (B.V. M.), situated below Bannockburn, and now gone. The
building of Tibermasko is now converted into a public washing house,
the vaulting chamber in which the enormous flow of water rises being
built over. This vault is 14 feet by 11 feet. A niche in the east wall
seems to have held the saint, St. Ninian, who was called "The Con-
fessor." The water of the well is so cold in summer that people cannot
stand long in it, and again, in winter, so warm as to thaw whatever is
thrown into it and emits smoke. This indicates that the spring must
issue from a great depth in the earth. Sir Hugh Paterson, mililis,
acquired the whole lands shortly thereafter, and was succeeded by his
son, also a Sir Hugh, in 1696, when they were erected into the present
Barony of Bannockburn. This Sir Hugh was, in 1701, succeeded by
his son, Sir Hugh, the third of that name, who was a relative of the
Earl of Mar, and a rank Jacobite. The lands were held afterwards by
Sir Alexander Gibson Maitland, and now by Colonel Wilson. Sir
Hugh, the third, favoured the rebellions of 17 15 and '45, and Prince
Charles was his guest on 14th September, 1745, on his route to the
south, and again on 4th January, 1746, on his return, and during the
siege of Stirling Castle. It was here he made the acquaintance of Sir
Hugh's niece, Miss Wilkinshaw, of the connection between whom there
is a history.

Provost Wallace and a councillor of Stirling, on the summons to
surrender the town (which was then defended by walls with gates),

OLD BANNOCKBURN MANSION. 285

visited Prince Charles, and were entertained there all the night of the
6th January, 1 746 ; but the majority of the Council and those inhabi-
tants who objected to the deputation and were against the surrender of
the town, led by the Rev. Ebenezer Erskine, in the deputation's absence,
called out and armed 900 of the inhabitants, who shut the Port gates,
and a ridiculous episode occurred. As a reply to his summons at the
gate, the rebel drummer was fired at, and fled, leaving his drum, which
is gravely chronicled as having been gallantly "towed over the walls "
as a trophy of war. This and the other circumstances attending the
surrender formed a sarcastic article in the St. James Post of 30th
January, 1746, which excited the wrath of the Magistrates. It taunted
them with pusillanimity and cowardice ; and the justification of the
Provost resenting the insinuations of he and his co-councillors having
been influenced by the Prince's condescension and hospitality, forms
amusing reading. He stated "that he never spoke to the Prince's son,
nor was in a room with him, and all acted together," and that the Post
"was stuffed with gross falsehoods." The article was directed to be
contradicted in the newspapers. On the following day, four councillors
went and surrendered the key of the gate at Bannockburn House.

A key was recently found hid in a recess in the wall of the bed-
room then occupied by the Prince. It is of rough common smith
make, and evidently for the lock of an iron gate, and as the Port Gate
key was amissing thereafter, an entry appearing in the town's books
"for two new keys to the Port gate," which was of iron, proves its
identity. A bullet hole is shewn in the wall at the head of the bed
which Prince Charles occupied in this room. Tradition states it was
caused by the pistol of an assassin, fired through the bedroom window,
History is silent on this point.

CHAPTER AAAII.

St. INinians' Ludging of Rollo of
Powhouse.

PHE two oldest and most interesting houses in St. Ninians, for their
architectural characteristics and inscriptions, are identified by
their local names of "the Gallery" and " Parliament Close," and are,
by a happy coincidence, embraced in one deed.

The Gallery (sketch, page 289) is situated on the west side of
the main street or highway, and is a roofless mansion of some architec-
tural pretensions, two storeys in height, having semi-dormer windows
at the back. It is L shaped, the larger limb having a frontage of
50 feet by 20 feet, and the back too-fall, 30 feet by 20 feet, with walls
2\ feet thick. The ground floor, the cellars, are barrel-vaulted, and
the main door was entered by a short outside stair direct off the
thoroughfare. The sitting rooms seem to have occupied the first floor,
and the kitchen, singularly, with the sleeping rooms, the upper flat.
Over the doorway there is an empty niche which evidently contained
the owner's crest or arms. The building is of ashlar courses, and the
soles, jambs, and lintels of the front windows and doors have ogee
mouldings. There is a back court and a small garden.

288

ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

From a disposition, dated 25th March, 1704, to the south or east
tenement immediately adjoining, by John Wordie, smith at St. Ninians'
Kirk, and his spouse, to Robert Rollo, the boundary is described as
" by his (Robert Rollo's) tenement on ye west." In a subsequent dis-
position, dated 1726, the boundary is "by the tenement of land of
Robert Rollo on the north and east." But the direct evidence of Rollo's
ownership and his erection of the ludging is ascertained from an instru-
ment of sasine in favour of William Archibald's trustees, dated 31st
March, 1831, embracing the Gallery and Parliament Close. The Gallery
is described as " that tenement or lodging, high and laigh, back and
fore, lying in the village of St. Ninians, and on the west side of the
King's highway leading through the said village : which tenement and
others sometime pertained to, and was built by, Robert Rollo of Pow-
house, and was sold by his heir to James Culling, teacher," etc.

As the laird of Powhouse was, in 1689, one of four overseers
appointed by The Estates cf the Kingdom to conduct the first election
of Stirling Town Council in the Cromwellian reign, and was alive in
1704, his erection of the ludging may be attributed to the period
between 1670 and 1680, and it is a mansion of a type erected about that
era. The sketch opposite is that of the frontage, and the crest of
Rollo of Powhouse, which no doubt occupied the niche above the door-
way, is given as a sketch on page 291.

mmmammmmmm

iJM

-a.

ROLLO OF POW1IOUSES LUDGING. 29I

Parliament Close is the name given to a small back court
entered by a horse shoe shaped arch off the Kirk Lane. On the
lintels of doors of two of the houses in it are the following inscriptions :
that of the door, in the upper flat of the front house, the initials and date,
T.W. M.A., 1603, and the Latin motto, " Qui petitur vicit" (who tholes
overcomes"); and on the other, W.W. E.D., 1674, and are supposed
to represent respectively Thomas Wordie and his spouse, and William
Wordie and Ellen Doig, his wife, whose initials also appear on William-
field (Torbrex Mansion), and who are known to have held several
tenements in this part of St. Ninians. Unfortunately the title deeds do
not go back far enough to assist this enquiry or verify the ownership.

OVA

WejVe^gP

CHAPTER AAAI1L
Part 1.

Old Fleshers' Tavern (Earl of Linlithgow).

a BOUT the middle, and on the south side of St. John Street, is a
picturesque two-storey house with rather remarkable turnpike
stair. The English artist, Linley Sambourne, considered it sufficiently
interesting to include it in his sketch-book of a Highland tour, published
some years ago. This house is alleged to have been the Earl of Lin-

294 ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITV.

lithgow's Ludging. The building consists of two floors, with one
large apartment of 1 5 feet by 1 2 feet on each floor, both entering
directly off the turnpike stair. The apartment on the first floor, being
the kitchen, has a finely-moulded stone chimney piece, 7 feet by 5 feet,
the lintel being one immense stone. The upper chamber is exactly of
the same dimensions. The walls of the whole building are four feet
thick, of immense stones, and all is of the most solid construction. The
tower or turret has a deep moulding, and probably the roof was origin-
ally cone-shaped. The sketch (page 293) shews heavy mouldings
round the tower, and there has been a strong door hung on the entrance.
The owner assured us that the old woodwork was of oak. No date or
inscription is visible, but the present owner says one of four corbels,
when displaced, had the single letter A covering its whole surface, and
the removal of the plaster shewed an old painted wall of a yellowT colour.
It is hardly worthy of notice that in the centre of what must have been
the original front, but is now the south wall of the room of the first flat,
is a stone tablet, with a deep border, containing an old oil-coloured
painting representing roughly the execution of Queen Mary.

In 1622, Alexander, Earl of Linlithgow, had a connection with
Stirling, and is " freely and lovingly admitted to the liberty and freedom
of a burgess and guild brother " of the Burgh of Stirling. By disposi-
tion, recorded 25th December, 1656, " ane noble and potent Earl,
James, Earl of Callander, Lord Almond, and Alexander Livingston,
only son to the deceased Earl of Linlithgow," dispone to Robert Gib,
merchant burgess of Stirling, " that ludging or tenement (laitlie waist
and now built) sometime pertaining to the Earl of Linlithgow, lying
within the said Burgh in the Raw called the Back Raw," shewing that
the Earl had a ludging certainly in its vicinity. He had also a ludging
in Falkirk, in which his widow, Mary, Countess of Callander, was infeft.

Part 2.

Callander Mansion.

"*HE Mansion House as it existed previous to the possession by
* the Forbes family is shewn in the sketch on page 298. It
is built upon, and incorporated with, an older castle or fortalice of an
extremely early date. Fragments of ruins and inscriptions, with the
date 1596, are stated to be preserved near the Manse, but this must
have referred to later additions. The style of architecture of this
building is applicable to a period about the middle of the seventeenth
century, and, as the coat of arms (shewn above), which is affixed to
West Quarter Mansion, a branch of the family, and which tradition
says was removed from Callander House most probably in 1783, when

296 ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

the Forbes family purchased it from the Commissioners of forfeited
estates, bears the date 1641, either of these dates may suit the erection.

The assignment of the origin of the family name and arms to the
Roman fuel provider, or Calloner, with its supposed three billets of
wood, significant of his trade, for arms, is too hypothetical for serious
consideration. The other explanation of the supposed billets being
rolls of paper, representative of the Callander who was the royal
comptroller or clerk, is more reasonable. The three billets form a dis-
tinctive part in the arms of all the Callander clan and in no other family.

The above dates correspond to the creation of James, first Earl of
Callander, who was a son of Alexander, son and heir of William, Lord
Livingston, for whom Queen Mary became sponsor at his baptism in
Callander House, on 1st July, 1565, and who became first Earl of Lin-
lithgow— Lord William having died prior to 1593, when Alexander
succeeded to him in Callander estates and title. The families of
Livingston and Callander and the town of Falkirk were always closely
connected, the latter sharing in their troubles and rejoicings. The
Earl of Callander was Lord of the Barony, which included the town of
Falkirk, and the corporation and inhabitants were therefore his vassals.
The erection of the town into a Free Burgh of Regality is embodied in
the same charter granted by James VI. to the said Alexander, Lord
Livingston, of the baronial estates of Callander and others.

The old castle or fortalice had an historical interest. The ill-
fated Queen Mary, who was in close friendship with the Livingstons
(the youngest daughter of Alexander, fifth Lord, being one of the
Queen's famous four Marys), dined in the mansion on 12th August,
1562. She also, as referred to above, attended as sponsor, incurring
great inconvenience and risk to herself, riding from Perth with 300

fcs

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4
i

CALLANDER MANSION. 299

horsemen at early daybreak, to avoid Morton. She stayed there with
Darnley, her future husband, in August following-, and, subsequently,
sent invitations to Lord and to Lady Livingston, who was a daughter of
Malcolm, Lord Fleming, to the pageant and baptism of her son in
Stirling Castle; and on 13th January, 1566, she visited her friends,
with the royal infant, spending four days, on the 24th of that month
with them.

On 24th May, 1568, James VI. orders William, Lord Livingston,
who had joined the rebel Lords, to deliver up the " Castle, Tower, and
Fortalice of the Calender."

Lord Livingston bound himself with the other nobles to effect the
release of Queen Mary from Loch Leven. On her escape, he welcomed
her and joined her party, with all his retainers, his Falkirk vassals, who
fought with great gallantry at Langside. After their defeat, he accom-
panied the Queen in her flight to England, and, with Lady Livingston,
shared her imprisonment at Bolton, at a time when Mary's other friends
had deserted her. Lord Cecil, in reporting Mary's conduct in prison,
mentions that " the greatest person about her is Lord Livingston and
the lady, his wife, and she is a fair gentlewoman." Lady Livingston's
health was so impaired by the strict imprisonment and strain that, on
Queen Mary's change of prison, she was left ill at Rotherim, in 1570,
for which the Queen expressed her concern in a letter to Lord Burleigh.
Both Lord and Lady Livingston returned to Scotland before the
Queen's execution.

In a list of nobility and their creeds, sent to England, dated 1st
July, 1592, Lord Livingston is described as a papist, of 61 years, and
his wife, the Lord Fleming's sister, and his residence, Calendar. From
the Falkirk magazine of 1827, we quote that " in the old churchyard of
Falkirk, near the figured tombstones of the old Barons of Callander, is

300 ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

one obscure, flat, defaced tombstone, and with the coat of arms on the

dexter side is impaled a chevron-
in-chief, the Fleming arms, and
on it the initials W. L. are trace-
able." This defaced stone is
suppose to represent Lord and
Lady Livingston's grave. The
other members of the noble
family were buried in the south
aisle of the old Kirk, the tomb-
stone being marked by four
great stones, representing two
knights and their ladies.

Sir Alexander married Lady
Eleanor Hay, and was succeeded
by their son James, of Brighouse,
a castle on the Avon, who went
through the Swedish wars, with
some of his vassals, serving under
Gustavus Adolphus, and after his
return in 1633, was created by
Charles I., Lord Almond and
Falkirk, in 1 64 1. He derived the
estates from his brother Alex-

-.C^CZ-L-f-Cl- O-

JL 13 <

CL~ 'L-O- ^t- e- -a- ^-

ander, Earl of Linlithgow, who, as governor of Linlithgow Palace,
resided at Midhope, an old small baronial mansion. He was King's
Treasurer in 1641, joined with his vassals "the engagement," was de-
feated at Witherby, and retired to the Continent. His vassals, on their

CALLANDER MANSION. 301

return, submitted to the censure of the Kirk Session for their conduct.
Cromwell excluded him from the Act of Indemnity of 1654 for this.

After the disastrous rout and retreat of the Scots from Dunbar,
Charles II. left a garrison in Callander House, which was then a
fortified place of some strength, and Cromwell, on being obstructed,
took it, and put the small garrison to the sword. Quantities of human
bones were dug up in removing the old gateway on the lawn. Oppo-
site this gateway a huge ash tree, 14 feet in diameter, grew, named the
" Dule " Tree (Scotch, "grief") or gallows' tree, — the rights of the
Baron comprehending pit and gallows.

In 1652, General Monk repaired and resided with part of his
troops in Callander House. Alexander, second Earl, signed the
Covenant in 1675, when it was occupied by the Parliamentary army ;
and in 1678, on the soldiers again taking possession, the Falkirk
vassals rose and put them to flight. The other members of the family
adhered closely to the King, and, on his restoration in 1682, the
Covenanter was deprived of his Sheriffship and Baronial power over
the Regality of Falkirk — the latter being given in favour of the Earl
of Linlithgow, and the other in Lord Erskine's favour.

The terms of the great charter, granted by James VI., dated 13th
March, 1600, are "for the great care and extreme diligence and solici-
tude of our trusty servant, Alexander, Lord Livingstone, and Dame
Helenore Hay, his spouse, in divers years past, with regard to our two
legitimate daughters, by their undertaking their education in their own
society, and being due them ,£10,000 for food and education, of them
and their body servants," etc. In addition to conferring the govern-
ment of the Castle, Tower, and Fortalice of Callander on him, etc., the
King erects Falkirk into a Free Burgh of Barony, with market cross,

302 ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

fairs, baron's court, and a special court for administering justice. The
,£10,000 was repayable betwixt the rising and setting of the sun at the
grave of James, Earl of Morton, in the parish kirk of Edinburgh — the
holding being a pair of gilt spurs, at Callander Castle, at the feast of
Pentecost. As an example of the semi-barbaric powers of a feudal
Baron, we further quote: "with court and issues of amerciements,
herezeldes, bluidwits, and mercheta mulierum, with free forestry and its
laws and casualties, with furka, fossa, sok, sak, thole, theme, infangthief,
outfangthief, pit, and gallows."

The charter of Charles I., 22nd July, 1646, erected Falkirk into "one
new and Free Burgh of Reoality, to be called the Buroh of Falkirk."

Staunch friends to the Stewart family, the Mansion House exer-
cised its hospitality to Prince Charles, in September, 1745, on his way
to Edinburgh. The Earl, joining that rebellion, forfeited his title and
estates, the latter being seized by the Government, and, on a sale by
the Commissioners of Forfeited Estates in 1784, were purchased by
William Forbes, merchant in London — the charter of sale, under the
great seal, in his favour being dated 20th December, 1783, and his
sasine therein recorded in the Particular Register of Sasine, 19th
January, 1784. William Forbes married Margaret Macadam in 1787,
and on 10th September, 1788, she is infeft in a liferent annuity of
£1200— her marriage contract provision over the Barony.

Mr. Forbes' successor has completely changed the plain old man-
sion of the seventeenth century, and in its place there is now a palatial
residence in the modern baronial style of architecture. The moat also
is filled up and grounds levelled so that no evidence of it and the old
Castle, Tower, or Fortalice exists, beyond the great thickness of the
old walls visible internally, and the springs which supplied the moat,
occasionally bursting near it.

O^O-tC-C'-t

(i)£

' tca-/L,ce.-x. .

Part 3.

West Quarter Old Mansion.

HIS picturesque estate of a cadet of the ancient and noble house of
the Earl of Linlithgow is situated about a mile and a half east of
Falkirk, was originally part of the Barony of Callendar, and is the only
branch of the family and estate which escaped the general forfeiture
that fell to the lot of the chiefs of this once all-powerful family in the
Rebellions of 171 5 and 1745. Notwithstanding, this estate had vicis-
situdes of fortune and passed out of the male line of the West Quarter
Livingstons, and it remains the only property now held by the name.

The extensive, plain, old seventeenth century house was situated
on the bank of a deep wooded glen, having a stream and picturesque

3o4

ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OE STIRLING NOBILITY.

waterfall of some volume and height, but which has been removed to give
place to the present magnificent mansion. It was erected by Sir William
Livingston, the fourth son of Sir Alexander Livingston of Craigiehall
and Susan Walker, and a direct descendant of Sir George of Ogleface.
He subsequently succeeded to Ogleface with West Quarter, on his
brother James' death, contesting successfully against a claim of Lord
Napier thereto. He was married to Helcnore Livingston, daughter of

his kinsman, Alexander Livingston,
who brought with her a fourth of
her father's estate of Redding (West

' /(Pa

Quarter), in 1626. From the coat of
arms on the ancient dovecot, still pre-
served, the initials S. W. L. and D. H. L.,
with date 1647, represent the said Sir
William Livingston and Dame Helen-
ore Livingston, his wife, and the date
of erection of the dovecot, and probably
of the mansion itself. From this
marriage Sir William, to distinguish
him from the other members of the
family of the same name, was better
known as " the husband of the heiress
of West Quarter."
In 1648 Sir William served under his cousin, the Earl of Callen-
dar, as second in command, in the unfortunate attempt by the Scots
to rescue King Charles, known as "The Enoaoement." He was
appointed governor of Carlisle Castle, surrendered subsequently to the
English on the defeat of the Scots, and on his return suffered a

+J
A

^
^J

WEST QUARTER OLD MANSION. 30/

judgment of censure from his parish Kirk Session. He died in 1676,
followed by Dame Helenore three years afterwards. Their eldest son,
James, who succeeded to his father's estate, married his kinsman's (the
Earl of Callendar) widow, Lady Mary Hamilton, daughter of the Duke
of Hamilton, and he, adhering to the Orange Government, was created
a Knight Baronet by King William on 30th May, 1699. He died
childless in 1701, and his widow, who took for her third husband Patrick
Ogilvy, acquired, with consent of her niece, Helen Livingston, a
liferent of not only a fourth of Redding, called West Quarter, " with
the mansion house and a seat in the parish church," but also " the great
ludging in Falkirk," and is therein styled Countess of Callendar and
Countess of Findhorn. She was succeeded by (i) Sir George, who
died in 1729 without issue; (2) by his brother, Alexander, who died
unmarried in 1766; (3) by Sir William, who died in 1769 without
issue ; and (4), by Sir Alexander, a nephew of a collateral branch, who
died in 1795, when his son, Admiral Sir Thomas, married to a daughter
of Stirling of Glorat, succeeded thereto. George III., in 1803, for his
distinguished services and "as nearest collateral heir male" of the
attainted Earl of Linlithgow, conferred on Sir Thomas the forfeited
hereditary offices of Keeper of Linlithgow Palace and Blackness Castle.
Sir Thomas consequently claimed the chieftainship of the clan and the
right to represent the noble family of Livingston, lost by the attainder.
He died in 1853, a Rear- Admiral.

The family was thereafter represented by Thomas Livingston
Fenton Livingston, a great-nephew of Sir Thomas, who succeeded
through his paternal grandmother in 1853, whose surname he assumed,
and he represented the only one of the historical Livingstons in Scot-
land. The estate is now held by the Hon. Mrs. E. Fenton Livingston.

308 ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

The scenery is noted in the neighbourhood, and was the subject of
praise by the descendant of an American cadet who held various high
offices in New York State, and took part in the War of Independence.
After a visit and hospitable entertainment by the Admiral at West
Quarter House in 1819, in a letter to his mother he describes himself
as amongst grand scenery, and that Sir Thomas retained a warm kind-
ness for and drank the healths of his friends over the water after dinner.
Sir Thomas' praise is also sung in homely rhymes by- his lodge-keeper,
Jane Anderson, which as revealing the good and genial heart of a tar
of the old school and the affection bred thereby in his servants to him,
we venture to quote. After describing the beautiful West Quarter
scenery, she adds : —

" But he : how mean to me and mine the scenery would look
Could I not see its noble lord come stepping over the brook,
And hear his grand commanding voice — to evil doers a dread,
But peace to them that doeth well, and pity to all that need.
The Baron's steps are feeble, and his auburn locks are grey,
Yet his majestic countenance is bright and fre^ as May,
For He who made him what he is, for ever be his trust,
For like his noble ancestors he must return to dust."

In addition to the dovecoat arms there are built into the upper
storey of the present magnificent Scottish Baronial mansion, for preser-
vation, two other coats having no connection with the West Quarter
family, but evidently brought from Kilsyth and Callendar Houses. The
sketch, page 309, is evidently from Kilsyth, and bears the name of the
Kilsyth Livingstons. It has in addition to the Latin inscription of "Sir
William Livingston of Kilsyth,* Knight Baronet (Baro Eques Savara-
tus), and Lady Antonia of Bord," and the motto " Spe expedo" their

* Note. — Sir William, a man 01 parts and learning, accompanied Lennox to France in 1601, was a
Lord of Session in 1609, Privy Councillor in 1613, and Vice-Chamberlain. He succeeded to the Barony
o( Kilsyth, 4th October, 1620, and married Antonia de Bord, a French lady, by whom he had a son and
daughter.

WEST QUARTER OLD MANSION.

309

monograms S.W. L. and D.A.B. The Lady was from France, and her
arms of the Duchy of Hesse are quartered in the shield with those of
her husband, viz., " ardent, a fesse grules charged with two annulets of
the field between a star in chief and a rose in base of the second."
Knight Baronets had precedence of Baronets Nova Scotia. The other
(sketch, page 295) is the arms of the Earl of Linlithgow, with fantastic
supporters representing the lions. From the height and weather-worn
condition of the stone, the motto is undecipherable, and was probably
Et domi ct /oris, and the date 1 64 1 would refer to the erection of
additions to Callendar House, as that ancient mansion's history goes
far back to the thirteenth or fourteenth century. As was common on
change of ownership, the arms were probably removed from Callendar
House when the estate was seized by the Crown, on the Earl's
attainder, and sold to Mr. Forbes in 1783.

(8B ^aiSli @@gSi<§U^flWJ@Tlrt!A A

*-*:-.

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Part 4.

3ncient Castle of Haining

E RIVED its name from being situated in
a wood enclosure — "Hanite" being an

'\id\ old Scotch term used in the Forest laws to

signify an enclosed or fenced in wood. This old

T*{ mansion seems to consist of three buildings

united and inter-communicating, is roofless and
without any protecting fence. It stands on a solitary mound in a field
of grain, the ancient approach, distinctly traced, being by a stone
bridge over a now empty water course, which formerly was probably

ANCIENT CASTLE OF RAINING.

part of a surrounding moat. The field is on the north side of the canal
and about two miles east from Polmont village. The front tower, of
which this view is taken, is 36 feet and three storeys in height, and is
entered by a circular doorway through an apparently outer fortification

or wall, with a loopholed guardroom commanding it. The corbels
which had supported a hanging turret just over it, are visible, and the
ruined walls to some height of a round tower on its north-east an^le

312 ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

(sketch, page 310), detached from the building, apparently forms with
some outside vaulted buildings part of the Castle's defences. The walls
of the main buildings are of the enormous thickness of 7 feet 4 inches,
and the ground floor rooms are vaulted and have iron-barred windows,
while the upper floors are gone. A comparatively modern wing on the
south has been added, and the main doorway shifted to that portion of
the Castle. There is no date, initials, or coat of arms, nor carved
work, except a head carved on the upper courses of the front, to
indicate the owner or date of the erection of this imposing structure,
which must be very early, and its occupants a family of importance.
The place is in ruins and free to the public.

The Castle belonged to the Crawford family, and the estate was
possessed, along with Mungwell, or Manuel, prior to 1546, by William
Crawfured de Haining, and the mansion existed at that time.

On 1 6th May, 1546, the elder of his two daughters, Agnes, suc-
ceeds him as an heiress-portioner to part of the lands of Mungwell and
Hainirigf, with the manor, etc., of Haining- and mill of Mungwell. She
married Thomas Livingston, the third son of Alexander, fifth Lord
Livingston, who was the founder of the Livingstons of Haining, but it
is said, before her marriage, she sold her half of these lands to his kins-
man, Alexander Livingston of Dunipace, from whom her husband
re-purchased them, and gets a charter thereto on 12th March, 1553,
from Mary, Queen of Scots. On 13th April, 1556, his wife succeeds
to her younger sister, Margaret's pro indiviso half, and became thus in
possession of the whole Barony.

On 12th March, 1553, Thomas Livingston obtains remission,
along with other lairds in the district, from attending the armv at
Pinkiecleugh ; but adhering to Queen Mary's party, in May, 1568, the

ANCIENT CASTLE OF RAINING. 313

Regent Moray orders him to deliver up "the tower and fortalice of
Haining." Subsequently with his brother-in-law, Alexander Bruce of
Airth, Thomas becomes security for the good behaviour of his sister-
in-law, Lady Livingston, one of the Queen's Marys, and her staunch
friend, whose intrigues on her mistress's behalf had brought upon her
the displeasure of Moray. His name also appears as surety for mem-
bers of his family and kinsmen, along- with that of his son, Thomas,
younger of Haining, in various feuds and quarrels of the nobility of
that district. Agnes, his wife, died in 1564, and he, called the " Elder
of Haining," died on 12th May, 1602. They left several sons and two
daughters, and the eldest, Thomas, called the younger of Haining, is,
on 26th October, 1602, served heir to his mother, Lady de Haining, in
a third of the lands. He died about 16 10, and was succeeded by his
son, Thomas, the third, who entered himself heir to his father on 3rd
November of that year, and was in turn succeeded by Alexander, his
eldest son. On 1 6th May, 1632, Alexander also succeeds as heir of
Robert Crawford, his great grandfather, through his mother, to the
superiority. He left no issue, and was succeeded by his brother John.
In 1633, his eldest son, also John, gets sasine of the lands, on his
father's obligations, and thirteen days afterwards, sasine of the lands of
Whiting. He married Isabella Stewart, by whom he had a son, James,
but James, Earl of Callander, their kinsman, who had obtained an
assignation to a mortgage over them, renounced the lands to James'
uncle, Alexander, who carried down the descent. He was first of
Parkhall, to which name he changed the former name Haining. He
married Christian Stirling of Glorat, and died in 1708, succeeded by
his eldest son, Alexander, also designed of Parkhall, in 17 16, who died
without issue,

ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

On 15th March, 1775, John M. Livingston, as heir of provision
to his brother William, gets sasine of parts of Haining. He married
Antonia Calder, and died in 1786, succeeded by his eldest son, who
was killed while hunting in 1809, and being unmarried, the succession
passed to his sister Margaret, who married her cousin, John Livingston
Learmouth. He died in 1798, and Margaret in 1840, succeeded by
their son, Thomas Livingston Learmouth, whose first wife, Christian
Donald, died in 1843, and his second wife, Mary Coull, in 1887.
Mr. Learmouth himself died in 1871, aged 60, and had four sons by
Christian Donald. The eldest, Thomas, succeeded to him, and
married (1) Louisa, daughter of Sir Thomas Valliant, and (2) Jeannie,
daughter of Leslock Reid, and has children by both. He died some
years ago survived by his widow, who presently possesses the estate.

ri^t--M^ ■y-n- CCL.I

O-VS-SZl- o-

£ X,

■f-

cu*<~c>-a-.

CHAPTER AAAIV.

Tower, Fortalice, and Manor of Plane

I S the name given in the charters to the group of buildings, now in
ruins, about four miles west of Larbert, and near to the railway,
frOm which it is a conspicuous object. It consists of a small square
tower of the fifteenth century type, and a large building, apparently
of three storeys, forming a west wing, which with two walls on the
east and south sides had formed an enclosing court-yard. It is built on
a sandstone rock slightly elevated above the stretch of flat country on
its east and north sides, having deep declivities on its west and south
sides, in the hollow of the former of which is a small loch, utilized as a

1 6 ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

dam for the old and now disused mill below, and the other side had
apparently been formed into terraces and anciently used as a garden.
The selection of the site was evidently for its natural defensive strength.
The Tower is 27 feet by 20 feet outside, and consisted of three
apartments or floors, the ground one being vaulted, and with only a
mere slit for light, and a small circular doorway (sketch, page 324) in
its west wall, outside its defences. The second floor (the dining hall)
has a large fireplace and ornamental pillar jambs of good taste, and was
entered by an outside stair from the court. The communication
between the dining hall and the dormitories is by a stair in the inside
angle formed by the junction of the north and east walls (sketch, page
321), while the vaulted ground chamber is quite isolated from both the
upper parts of the tower and the court. The walls are 4 feet thick,
and some of its stones, which are all ashlar sandstone courses, are
5 feet by 3 feet and 4 feet by 3 feet in size, which gives a. distinct
impression of great solidity and strength. A single pepper-box turret
on the south-west angle commands and protects its two doorways, and
having no balancing neighbour, gives an odd look to the tower, which,
however, is presently concealed by the enveloping ivy.

The west wing seems to have been a separate three-storey building,
60 feet by 30 feet, having no connection with the tower, and built over
three large vaulted chambers connected with each other and also with
the court, but apparently not with the upper chambers, which seem to
have been entered, similarly to the tower, by an outside stair from the
court. Only the first floor of this building, with its vaulted roofs and
small windows, remain (sketch, page 315). A small attached vaulted
room on the north, facing and close to where the stair to the second
floor of the tower touched the court, would seem to have been a guard

:,HS

K1 J

msmmm

TOWER, FORTALICE, AND MANOR OF PLANE. 3 10

house protecting that entrance and probably the gateway in the court
wall, which may have been here ; but the wall is now gone, being-
removed when the present roadway, diverting the older one, was
formed nearer the tower.

The popular idea that the tower was merely used on a threatened
raid for housing the neighbours' cattle and the upper apartments as a
temporary place of refuge for their owners, is quite untenable — perfect
nonsense, indeed. This idea has probably arisen from its apparent
isolation. I say apparent, as the roof of the vaulting, as shewn in the
sketch, is gone, and a trap-door in the dining-hall floor may have
existed, making a connection by a moveable ladder with that floor, as
we see in Gartavartane (Gartmore) old Castle, where the ground
vaulted chambers had been connected in this manner. The tower, the
original erection, in its tasteful stonework, well squared door and
window jambs, etc., noble fireplace, and well planned arrangement of
the limited accommodation, bears to have been specially built, not only
as a place of strength, but as a permanent residence for, and used by,
the baron and his family and servants ; and its details are similar in
almost every feature to those in Bruce's Castle and Sauchie Tower —
good types of what constituted a nobleman's residence in the fifteenth
century. The west wing, a much later erection, probably in 1542, was
very extensive, it being the principal source for the stones from which
the adjoining cottages were built, the solidity of the tower resisting
attempts to dislodge any for that purpose,

The old tenant who joined us in our quest made us aware that not
a vestige of coat of arms, initials, dates, or marked stones have been
found in the ruins of Plane, and he had been resident there, and took
an interest in its old walls, for very many years.

320 ANCIENT1 CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

The succession to the lands of Plane, burdened with an annual of
^10 of silver money to the Holy Church of " Mairie de Cambusken-
neth," ended in females, Elizabeth, Mariota, and Agnes, daughters of
William of Erth and Plane. Elizabeth de Erth, Lady Plane, married
Thomas Somerville of Batlaw, a son of William, Lord Somerville,
and on 27th February, 1449, they were by James II. confirmed by-
charter, in Plane and other lands — the destination to them jointly and
longest liver, and failing heirs of the marriage, to Elizabeth's own heirs
— indicates the source from which the lands were derived. On 3rd
March, 1459, they granted part of the lands to William, son and
"apparent heir" of Thomas, reserving their own liferent. On 3rd
August, 1473, we find Thomas Somerville not only disputing with the
venerable Father in God, Henry, Abbot of Cambuskenneth, the pay-
ment of ^5 silver money, his proportion of above annual rent for his
half of Plane, but deforcing the Abbot's officers on their attempting to
recover it ; and judgment is given by the Court against him. On the
death of Thomas, Lady Plane got into dispute with her sons, David
Drummond and William Somerville, by having disposed of part of her
lands to Alexander Forrester of Torwood, and notaries' protests against
this act, in protection of their rights, are taken by them and Robert
Drummond, in June, 1476.

William, who married Marion Bruce, succeeded to Plane in 1476.
He appears in Court in 1490, as surety for Lady Erth and others, "touch-
ing the withholding of the teincl and fruit of Sawline, pertaining to the
said Elizabeth;" and in 1480 decree is given against him, at the instance
of John Bruce of Stanehouse, for £\o lent money and price of a horse
and harness. One of his daughters, Elizabeth, was married to Richard
Bothwell, Lord Holyrood House, and Provost of Edinburgh. His son,

TOWER, FORTALICE, AND MANOR OF PLANE. 323

David, who then succeeded, was married to Elizabeth, daughter of
Lord Elphinston, about 15 13, and they, during their lifetime, granted
Plane and part of Carnock to their son and heir-apparent, Thomas,
who, in November, 1523, sold the seventh part of Carnock to his relative,
Alexander Drummond of Ermore, and along with it the advocation of
the chapel of Carnock, the fragments of which lie close to Carnock House.
On 20th June, 1530, Thomas, on his father's death, was with his wife,
Margaret Livingston, confirmed in the lands, and, being childless, they
executed a deed of entail, which James V. confirmed on 10th May,
1542, in favour of themselves and longest liver, and to Thomas Somer-
ville, their nephew; and the lands include "the Tower, Fortalice, and
Manor of Plane" and are incorporated into a free Barony. In 161 1
David Somerville succeeded as heir to the said Thomas, the nephew.

The lands seem to have passed thereupon into the Carnock family,
and a descendant, Sir Thomas Nicolson of Carnock, soldier, on 26th
August, 1646, is confirmed not only in Carnock Tower and Mill, but in
the lands of Mylne Quarter and Mill thereof, with the " Manor and
Place of Plane," and he is succeeded in 1664 by his heir, also Sir
Thomas Nicolson. The Tower and Manor then followed the destina-
tion of the Elphinston estate, Dunmore, and the ruins, owned by the
proprietor of that estate, were recently sold to Mr. Ritchie.

From the foregoing detailed possessions, no reason for the mystery

surrounding them and their owners should exist. The buildings

formed the manorial residences of the proprietors of the Barony of

Plane, and were probably erected — the Tower by Elizabeth Erth, Lady

Plane, and her husband, about 1460, and the mansion house forming

the west wing, by David Somerville and Lady Elizabeth Elphinston,

about 1523, in whose charter of confirmation they are for the first time
w

324

ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITV.

specially mentioned as "Tower, Fortalice, and Manor." They were
thus the family residence of the Somervilles, Barons of Plane, for
about 300 years.

CHAPTER XXXV.

Kers or Kerse Castle
(Zetland Mouse).

JtS^iQtfJ&rf* £J

BOUT one mile west of Grange-
mouth on the Larbert Road, this
mansion (sketch, page 327) is situated.
It has replaced a very ancient tower
and fortalice, or castle, which existed on
West Kerse estate, built by John Men-
teith some short time" previous to 1469.
About 300 yards west of it and in front of
the great gate to the gardens, there are
some loose stones, overgrown with ferns and brushwood, near which
is the old sun dial (sketch above) containing the arms of a Hope
and his wife, which would seem to mark the site of the old tower. The
extensive gardens, including this site, are entirely surrounded by a wide
moat 40 feet broad, and having the depth of 4 feet, now dry ; but a
burn runs close by, whose waters probably were formerly used to fill it.
No other vestige of ruins is visible of this very ancient stronghold, for
such it seems to have been rather than an ordinary mansion, and from

26 ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

its figure on Pont's Map of 1654, and large grounds surrounded by the
moat, must have been an extensive series of buildings.

The sketch of the present mansion (page 327), now called Zetland
House, is taken from the lawn at its rear or south side, and compre-
hends all the older, and therefore most interesting, parts of it. But
even the oldest part does not seem earlier than the middle of the
seventeenth century, although the change of structure by modern
alterations, which include a new front and an upper storey, prevents
any decided opinion. No doubt the stones of the older mansion were
utilized in building it when the former, with its confined restrictions
and inconveniences of a fortified house, was abandoned for the greater
accommodation afforded by the latter. No coat of arms, initials, or
date is visible, except that on the old sun dial, referred to above. It
represents Sir Thomas Hope's, Lord Justice General, proprietor of
Kerse, impaled with his wife's arms, three bucks' heads. She was
Helen Rae, daughter of Alan Rae of Pitsendie. As Sir Thomas, born
in 1606, had died in 1643, ms occupation of the Castle was probably
1630, and to him may be ascribed the erection of the mansion.

Kers or Kars seems to have been Crown lands, and so early as
David II. were mortified by him to the Abbot and Convent of the
Holy Cross, Edinburgh, for an annual rent of £bo in alms and for a
daily mass at the great altar of that church for the souls of this king
and his predecessors. This grant is repeated by Robert III in 1390.
In April, 1450, in the description of the boundaries in a deed of neigh-
bouring lands granted by James II., it gives the Kers lands the distinc-
tive name by which they were subsequently known as " West Cars on
the water of Carroun." As it is on 26th July, 1469, just 19 years
afterwards, that the designation of a John Menteith, one of a deputa-

KERS OR KERSE CASTLE. 327

tion, is of Kersc, it is not unlikely he was the first owner and the
builder of the old tower and fortalice. About 1476, John was
succeeded by his son William, upon whom James IV. subsequently
conferred knighthood and the office of Sheriff of Clackmannanshire,
formerly held by John Shaw, along with a grant of the lands and
Barony of Aloway.

In 1488 a bitter feud existed between the Menteiths and Bruces
of Airth, and William Menteith becomes bound for himself, his son and

7*£ '-y^&> -'

28 ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

brother, to keep Robert Brois of Airth and Edward and Lucas, his
brothers, scaithless ; and Brois also becomes bound, along with the
Earl of Bothwell, similarly to keep free from harm the Menteiths, and
engage to settle their disputes by law.

In February, 1491, William and his wife, Margaret Muschet,
appear as defenders in an action by James Muschet — evidently a family
dispute. In 1508, William, designed as Lord of the Barony of Aloway,
being apparently childless, executes a conveyance to his nephew and
heir apparent, William Menteith, and Elene Bruse, his spouse, of lands
in Aloway, and, in 15 10, sells to Sir William Stirling of Cader his lands
of Ochiltree. On 18th February, 1509, James IV. grants a new charter
to William Menteith of Kerse, incorporating de nova these lands with
others into one free Barony of West Kerse, formerly held in capite of
the kino- • and the character of the ancient buildings is derived from the
description therein, " the lands of West Kerse, with Tower, Fortalice
and Manor, garden, orchards, and fishings in the Yares," etc.

Sir William was succeeded by John sometime prior to 1566, when
we find John and Bruce of Tulyallan incurring the indignation of Mary
Queen of Scots and Darnley, for the troubles in their Barony of
Clackmannan, and are prohibited from keeping the fair — John, Earl of
Mar taking charge of it. John was succeeded by Sir W illiam, who, on
15th January, 1629, in great extremity, with his lady appeals for pro-
tection from his creditors to Charles I., who refused it until they " con-
formed to the true religion professed within that our kingdom," the
Bishop of Rosse reporting them " under process." This necessitated
the sale of the estate to Sir Thomas Hope, from whose family by
marriage contract, on 18th March, 1788, it seemingly passed to Sir
Thomas Dundas, in whose descendants it remains.

CHAPTER AAAVI.

Kersie Mansion

V| P PEARS on Pont's Map of 1654 as a mansion house within a
V- * lawn or park of trees, situated on the banks of the Forth, over
against Alloa. It is a two-storey building, L-shaped, having a row of
five windows in its front top flat, and the entrance on ground floor, with
two windows on each side, is reached by a short outside stair with
railing, while a sun dial graces its west corner — all as shewn on the
sketch above. The internal walls in some places are very thick, one
gable being of the enormous thickness of 8 feet, shewing that the
present building has been erected on or incorporated with an older
one. The present tenant in some trenching work in the barn-yard,
came upon the roots of several trees of a large size. The line of the

OJv

ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY,

old drive to the mansion is quite visible. There are no inscription,
date, or initials to identify its owners, and even its ancient name is
somewhat obscure, as no such place as Kersie appears in the Public
Records prior to 1600. In 1469 the owmers of Kerse is John Menteith,
and of West Kerse, William Menteith, but these represent estates
some distance from Kersie. The only reference to Kersie is in a
decree between the town of Stirling and the Convent of Cambusken-
neth, dated 19th February, 1496, where the " fischeing of the Watter
of Kersy and Tulibody are to be broukit and joisit by ane venerabill
fader in God, Henry, Abbot" of that convent.

The inference is that the mansion was built and owned, with its
surrounding land, by a cadet of the important ancient family of Men-
teith of West Kerse, about the middle of the sixteenth century. It
ultimately became the property of the Earl of Dunmore, who recently
sold it, and is now occupied by the tenant of the farm of Kersie,
Mr. Gray.

foc^a-t CU-ccc-ci-, CsVcst^t-rL "Ts>a_ -~££-£

CHAPTER AAAVII.

3irth Castle.

pHE term Erth, in Gaelic Ardhe, signifies a hill, and here there are
* two hills or eminences, with a stretch of level plain from their
bases to the river Forth. These hills were occupied by Airth Castle
and Elphinston Tower (named Ermore and Erthbeg) respectively.
The Erth family is very ancient. Adam de Erth in 1248, held con-
siderable lands in Stirlingshire, subsequently subdivided into Erth,
Elphinston, Carnock, and Plane ; and Fergus de Erth, a nobleman,
occupied the Castle in 1309. The existing ancient portions of the

old Place of Airth are very extensive, and the sketch, page 333, is
taken from the south, so as to comprehend all the interesting
buildings. The east wing is certainly the oldest part. It consists,
as shewn by the sketch (page 331), of a square tower with two
unequal sized turrets at its front corners. The west wing, which is
alleged to be as old as the time of Wallace, is a simple square tower
with embattlements, and is named Wallace's Tower in connection with
Blind Harry's account of that hero having sacked it when held by 100
English, to relieve his uncle, the Priest of Dunipace, then a prisoner in it.
A large plain elevation, with dormer windows, fills the space between
these two towers, the windows having been widened and increased in
height recently. The building on this side is situated on the brink of
a steep knoll of considerable height, now forming a terraced garden,
and surrounded by old timber. Billings says that the towers on south
and east are remarkable for being external, and that on the left with
the conical roof (page 331) is the oldest part of the castle, and would
date between 1550 and 1600.

Edward Bruce, second son of Sir Robert Bruce of Clackmannan,
married Acmes, one of three dauohters and co-heiresses of William Airth
of that ilk, and widow, apparently, of Livingston of Mannerston, and got
with her the lands and Barony of Airth, which afterwards became his
chief title. Elizabeth married (1) Thomas Somerville of Batlaw and
(2) David Drummond of Carnock, and got portions of the lands of Plane,
in 1470 ; and Marjory married John Elphinston, and got Erthbeg.
Edward Bruce of Airth was succeeded by his son Robert. The castle of
Airth was burnt by James III. on nth June, 1488, previous to the battle
of Sauchieburn, Robert having joined the rebel Lords; and on 3rd July,
1489, after James IV.'s succession, he gets ^100 of compensation "for

AIRTII CASTLE. 335

byggen of his Place that was brynt." Prior to January, 15 19, he was
succeeded by his son, Robert, who is " enterit to the freedom of the
Burgesary of Stirling by reason of hes father," and is one of the
cautioners, with Robert Bruce of Auchenbowie, for the dower of
Provost Crichton's daughter, married to Alexander Bisset of Quarrel.
He was succeeded by Sir Alexander Bruce, who married a daughter of
Livingston, Earl of Linlithgow, in 1547. In 1601, John Bruce suc-
ceeded to him, and King James VI., on 21st July, 1600, erected Airth
and Falkirk into Royal Burghs, to the prejudice of the Burgh of
Stirling. The Stirling Town Council appointed Commissioners "to
raise summons of reduction of the rights made and grantit by our
Sovereign Lord to the prejudice of the liberties of this Burgh ; " and
on 24th September following, other two Commissioners are appointed
to get these erections annulled. Sir John was married to Margaret,
third daughter of Alexander, Lord Elphinston, and Jean Livingston,
and their tomb, the former north chapel of Airth Old Church, has the
saltier arms of Bruce and the initials S.J.B., and beneath that both
their initials with the inscription shewn on the sketch underneath. He

^mW^ym^/j'. -,.,

i UH#|i£Ugf

6 ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

seems to have been succeeded by Alexander, whose tombstone of black
marble is said to adjoin the above, and to bear on it "Ex Roberta
Brussii Scotorum Regis filio natu sec undo progeuito, Baroni Airthense"
— the date of his death being 1642, and age, 56. He seems to have
been succeeded by Richard Elphinston, who married Jane (or Isobel ?)
Bruce, and on 27th September, 1683, his son, Charles, succeeded him
in the lands and Barony of Airth, etc.

The Airth market cross was erected by Charles Elphinston in
1697, his initials and coat of arms, and those of his father and mother
with their arms quartered, appearing as in the two sketches on page
336 and the vignette in the title to this book. The other twTo sides of
the cross are sun dials, and one of them has the date 1697. The
sketches here are fuller in detail than those in the Elphinston chapter.
It is stated to be a fine example of a burgh cross. Charles was killed
in a duel with his relative, Captain William Bruce of Auchenbowie,
at Torwood.

Judge Graham acquired the estate in 1 7 1 7, and it remains in his
family. The modern north front with its towers was added to the
mansion in 1803.

The town or burgh of Airth is one of the few quaint old towns
which being isolated until recently from the outside world, retains many
of the features of its importance in the first decade of the eighteenth
century in its better class houses, having coats of arms, symbols or
trade badges, initials of their owners, and dates affixed ; and noticeably
two municipal buildings, the Market House, called the " Blue House,"
and "Turnpike," which has the date 1705, being apparently the former
Council chambers. There are many others with dates between 1705
and 1730, and among them a large tenement, with the guildry arms over

AIRTII CASTLE.

Its doorway, stands at the cross. In the north end of#the town lies
what is evidently a work of importance, viz., the dry bed of an old canal
connecting the town with the Forth, and bringing' their boats from that
river to their very door. Airth burgh had undoubtedly a port and
service of trading- boats in the Forth with a not inconsiderable trade for
a small town, but the ruin of its trade and with that its importance,
dates back to 1745, when their fleet of boats was seized and destroyed
by the Government troops to prevent them being utilised by the Pre-
tender's army in crossing the Forth. This trade has never returned,
notwithstanding the town's recent connection by rail. It remains a
dull, lifeless, sleepy place.

The old church, apparently of an early date, being attributed to the
transition period of the twelfth century, is with its surrounding tomb-
stones, as it stands on the very verge of a rock, close to the Castle,
a picturesque and conspicuous object from the plain. It contains the
tombstones of the ancient Airth family and their many branches that
had residences in the vicinity. The structure, a long, low, narrow nave,
80 feet by 20 feet, with a north aisle supported on four circular arches
with 10 feet of span each, has two south chapels, each 18 feet by 18 feet,
attached — all roofless — and what apparently was a north chapel is now
the Airth family sepulchre ; a square tower is on its south wall, and
an underground vault, reached by a flight of steps, inside the church.
It has on its south
door lintel the date
July 15, 1647. This
unusual exactness
excites suspicion as
to the lintel having

ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OE STIRLING NOBILITY.

formed a tombstone, but it is quite suited to its place. A recumbent
female effigy lies at the east gable wall without any identifying mark.
While the older portions of this fine ecclesiastical building may date
back to the fifteenth century, we think the architecture of the main
portions, including the tower, is of a later period, and the above date
may apply to the reconstruction of the church.

j^iiiiiiii;ii:!;;ii(ii!:ii!!iiia!^^,

-je-c-A-oc o^ j^u^c^ct-i^i^.

cCct-c-t

CHAPTER AXAVIN.

Part 1.

David Noir of Leckie's
Ludging

which we give a sketch opposite, is situated
at the bottom of the close entering from
Broad Street through the old tenement of Alex-
ander Erskine of Gogar. It is three storeys in
height, has the ground floor and first flat in their original condition,
and both its internal and outside appearance shew it to have been a
mansion of some pretensions. The upper storeys have been rebuilt
apparently, and some alterations on the older parts made later.

This house was the town mansion of Bailie David Moir, proprietor
of Leckie estate. In a disposition, dated 2nd January, 1659, Sir
William Stirling of Keir conveyed to David Moir of Leckie part of his
subjects entered from the close below the above, on the garden ground
of which he, David Moir, erected this house in or about the year of
his purchase ; and it remained in the Moir family until a very recent
date. It seems to have had a fine garden of some extent, now waste,
and the view from its windows commands an extensive prospect of the
country and overlooks the north part of the town.

David Moir, or his son, David, held the offices of Dean of Guild,
Treasurer, and Bailie of Stirling respectively, between 1687 and 1694.

Part 2.

Leckie or Lekky Mansion.

"HE earliest reference to this estate is in 1406, when a John de
* Dolas conveys Easter Lekky to Murdaco de Lekky, who then
held Wester Lekky. Mordaco conveyed the latter, on 7th March,
1441, to John de Moravia de Kepmad, evidently a near relative, a life-
rent being reserved for himself and Margaret, his spouse.

Easter Leckie seems to have fallen to the Crown, for James II.,
on 14th May, 145 1 , conveys it to an Adam Cosure, a burgess of Stir-
ling, pro ejus Jideli servitio. Cosure was a money-lender, and the
faithful services was the loan of 300 merks to the king. James III.,
on 13th September, 1472, in his charter of Easter Leckie to William,

sr^

LECKIE OR LECKKY MANSION. 345

Lord Monnypenny, narrates this burden to Cosure ; but on 16th July
preceding, at the high altar of the parish church of Stirling, 300 merks
had been tendered to Cosure by the attorney of Lord William and the
clerk of the King's Council, and declined by him on the Shylock-like
reason that "when he (Cosure) was proffered on behalf of the King
sicklike payment as he delivered to the King's progenitor, he would
give such answer as effeired. " Four days after the tender, however,
the attorney of Lord William de Monnypenny is infeft by a precept
from Chancery, who sold them on 23rd September to Andrew, Lord
Avendale. His infeftment and that of Margaret Kennedy is confirmed
by James IV. on 4th February, 1500.

Andrew, Lord Avendale, duly entered with the king and held the
lands down to 1521, the casualties being paid separately for Leckie,
Shirgarton, and Offers. Lord Methven, brother-overman to Lord
Avendale, succeeds thereto, and on 21st July, 1548, sold them to
Archibald, Earl of Argyll, the price being ^"1000; and Queen Mar-
garet's charter confirmino- the deed is to the Earl in liferent, and Colin
Campbell, his second son. in fee. Colin married Jonet Stewart,
daughter of the Countess of Sutherland.

John Lekky of Lekky, apparently a descendant of Mordaco de
Lekky (killed at Pinkiecleuch), who held the other parts of Leckie,
seems to have acquired Easter Leckie from Lord Colin, and was suc-
ceeded, on 26th March, 1555, by his son, Walter, when their description
is the Lands and Barony of Lecky. He was succeeded by his son,
Alexander Leckie, and the lands and barony are called Wester Leckie,
which includes Easter Leckie, Offers, and Shiroarton. On 12th
January, 1648, John Leckie of Leckie succeeds as heir to Alexander
Leckie, apparently being the same lands. Prior to 11th January, 1688
(about 1659), Bailie David Moir acquired them from him, and at his

346 ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

death, David Moir, his eldest son, having died, George, his brother
and heir, succeeded to, and was confirmed in them on that date. On
3rd October, 1789, a successor, George Moir, acquired and consolidated
the superiority with the dominium utile. On 31st May, J 796, Dr.
Robert Moir succeeds to George as heir of tailzie and provision.

From the architecture of this mansion and the fact that John
Leckie (killed at Pinkiecleuch) got the estate created a Barony, which
implies a mansion, mill, etc., about 1535, it is more than probable he
was the builder of its older parts. Its situation on a lawn, with sur-
rounding" stream and old trees, makes it a favourite subject for the
artist. The ancient, ponderous iron gate, with its massive bars still
hanging on the old doorway (sketch, page 342), and the numerous
loopholes commanding that doorway, refer us to the period of insecurity
affecting the whole country after the disastrous field of Flodden (15 13),
when the builders returned to the style of semi-fortified houses. The
Stewartry of Menteith, on the edge of which the mansion stands, was
also then in a lawless condition, whereof complaints were made at
Doune Castle. The Moir crest (sketch below) has been removed from
the niche, and no initials or date appear on the mansion, which still
remains in the Moir family.

/■ 'HE 0L'3LI£ \

CHAPTER AAA1A.

Touch Old Mansion.

*TT\HE ownership of the estate of Touch Fraser, on which this
* mansion is built, is alleged to date back to 1234, when Bernard
Fraser, stated to be of Touch, is appointed to the hereditary office of
Sheriff of Stirlingshire. A Sir Richard Fraser of the County of Stir-
ling makes homage at Berwick on 28th August, 1296.

From the Registers, in 1320, a charter to Touch Fraser is granted
by Robert the Bruce to Alexander Fraser, and refers to these lands
being held by Fraser's predecessors from Alexander III. In 1407,

348

ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

Robert, Duke of Albany (Regent) confirms a charter, or deed of entail,
by "our father," William de Keth, and Margaret Fraser, "our mother,"
to John Stewart, Earl of Buchan, "our son," and Elizabeth Douglas,
his spouse, with the office of Sheriff of Stirlingshire ; and on 26th
February, 1426, James I. confirms this charter to John Stewart and
Elizabeth Douglas and their heirs, all as granted by the Duke.

From an undoubtedly very ancient model of this tower and fortalice,
with its chapel, by the courtesy of the lady owning it, we are able to
give the sketch above, and the inscription in black letter of its builder,
John Durey (page 352), appearing on a tablet over the tower doorway.
The character of the architecture points to the last part of the fifteenth
century, and is of great interest,

touch old mansion. 351

On 4th November, 15 10, James IV., for his special affection,
infefts anew "Alexander Seton de Tulchfrasere, militis" in the Lands
and Barony of Tulchfrasere, " which the said Alexander and his prede-
cessors had enjoyed for so long time past, and which had been adjudged,
on 27th February, 1504, to pertain to the King on account of the late
Murdoch, Earl of Fyfe, to whom the lands belonged by reason of infeft-
ment from the late John Stewart, being criminally convicted by our pre-
decessor." (He was executed at Stirling with his sons for treason, by
James I. in 1424). This is the first record of the Seton family's ownership.

In 1 513 Ninian Seton, son of Alexander Seton, designed as of
Tulibody, enters with the king to what is described as "a sixth part of
the lands of Gargunnock, with the tower, fortalice, and mansion of the
same." This may be read as the mansion of Tulchfrasere, which is
described as part of the Barony of Gargunnock, but more reasonably
applies to Gargunnock estate which was claimed by Alexander Seyton.
On 4th May, 1546, Walter Seton succeeds to his father, Ninian, in the
said sixth part of Gargunnock, and on 27th August, 1547, John Seton,
designed of Gargunnock, sells to Walter Seton of Tulibody his part of
the Lands and Barony of Gargunnock, with the mill. On 2nd July,
1563, Queen Margaret grants charter to James Seyton, as son and heir
apparent to Walter Seyton of Tulibody, in the Lands and Baronry of
Touch Fraser, with "the fortalice and manor of Touch," and "the
15 merk lands of Gargunnock," with the mansion and fortalice of the
same, and advocation of the churches and chapels in the County of
Stirling, and also the lands of Tulibody — his father, Walter, reserving
his liferent to himself and his spouse, Elizabeth Erskine. On 7th
December, 1569, James Seyton, in implement of his mother's marriage
contract, gives her part of the lands of Meiklewood and others, in the

Baronies of Touch Fraser and Tulibody, excepting the lands of Touch
Fraser. On ist August, 1635, James Seyton succeeds as heir of James
Seyton, his father, in the lands and Barony of Touch Fraser and advo-
cation of chapel of the same.

The estate continues in the Seton family down to the middle of
the eighteenth century, when the heiress, Betty Seyton, marries Hugh
Smith, a son of Charles Smith, merchant in Edinburgh, whose mother
was Elizabeth Paterson of Bannockburn, and Hugh assumed the sur-
name and arms of Seton. In June, 1785, this Hugh Seton, who had
incurred considerable debts, with consent of his marriage contract
trustees and his son, Archibald, burdens the estate to discharge them.
In 1802, Archibald succeeds, and is infeft under his father and mother's
marriage contract, dated 13th September, 1753, and also in the mother's
part of the lands of Bannockburn. The lands continue in the family of
Sir Henry Seton Stewart, who succeeded to Mr. Archibald Seton.

The architectural features of the older parts of this mansion, of which
sketches are given (pages 347 and 348), and the general character of
antiquity borne by the other main building (sketch, page 350), points to
an early period, probably to Alexander Seton of Tulibody's predecessor,
John Stewart, Earl of Buchan, who as hereditary Sheriff of Stirling,
would require a residence near the Court town, and that about 1450.
The charter of 15 10 shews that the mansion was then in existence. The
entrance tower in the model has been removed, and a new facade and
considerable other alterations made on the buildings, but the other old
portions are quite recognisable, and have been carefully preserved.

CHAPTER AL.

Gargunnock Hansion.

H E name is alleged to be derived

{_)&* rnes C a mfkcUj 7/, J/, ;n Jea
Eavancl 1pil..

from the Celtic Cair quineach,
conical fortress. Keir hill was a forti-
fied place of an oval figure, surrounded
by a rampart, erected on the hill, near
the confluence of two burns uniting
at the east end of the village, probably
in the thirteenth century. The site
of the Peel of Gargunnock, a much

older building- and larger fortification,
is about 50 yards from the Forth, near
the mouth of Gargunnock burn, and was surrounded by a rampart and

354 ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

ditch. Not a vestige now remains. Wallace had a garrison here, and
when the English erected a small fort near Frew to guard the ford
over the Forth, he, with a small force from the Peel, attacked and
destroyed it.

The lands and Barony of Gargunnock appear in the Registers of
1470 as being held, along with Carnock and others, by Alexander
Hepburn and Marote Normavil, styled " Laidy Gargunok," and on her
husband's death, she conveyed them to Alexander Hepburn, her son,
reserving her liferent. Their possession seems to have been disputed
by David Graham, designed of Gargunnock, apparently a gentleman of
position, and Alexander Seyton of Tulibody, but their claims are
repelled by the Court. . ( Vide Old Carnock article).

The oldest parts of the mansion, which is situated some distance
to the east of the alleged site of the Keir hill, consists of the east wing,
with its solitary corner turret, but shortly previous to 1790, it is stated
to have had a high wall, strong gate in front, and a moat, indicating a
place of strength. Neither wall, gateway, nor moat is traceable.
The walls of this wing are fully four feet thick, and itself is of a
design of architecture in use in the end of the sixteenth or begrin-
ning of the seventeenth century ; but the early building may possibly
date back to 1460, and thus have been built by Alexander Hepburn,
senior.

In 1 5 13 Alexander Elphinston owned part of the lands of Gargun-
nock, for which he paid entry money to the king. The same year
Ninian Seyton, son and heir of the above-named Alexander Seyton,
pays entry money for a sixth part of the lands of Gargunnock, "with
the tower, fortalice and mansion of the same." From this it would
appear as if the Seytons had got possession of the estate and old

•-■■ s-

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GARGUNNOCK MANSION. 357

mansion, which was the subject of litigation between his father,
Alexander Seyton and Mariote Normavil — although this is not quite
clear.

In 1740 Colonel Campbell of Ardkinglass and Governor of
Stirling Castle, appears as proprietor, and the ancient sun dial in
the garden (sketches, pages 353 and 358) bears his arms, name
and title. His son, Sir James Campbell, succeeded him, and in
consequence of his financial difficulties, had, in 1784, burdened the
estate with debt, and in the securities the description is, " of parts
of the Barony of Gargunnock and Manor Place of the same."

On 30th August, 1793, Colonel James Erdington acquired the
estate from the Campbell family, including therein the kirk lands and
chaplainries, the mill of Gargunnock, and the patronage of the Church
of Stirling (St. Ninian's?), by charter under the Great Seal, dated
4th February, 1793. He subsequently acquired other parts of Gar-
gunnock from John Graham of Meiklewood On 10th January,
James Erdington, a minor, succeeds his father, and along with his
mother, Ann Weller (his trustee until he attained 30 years of age),
is infeft therein on his father's disposition, and on 10th February
following, his mother takes an annuity of ^300 and a liferent of the
" Manor Place," garden, orchard, and policy of Gargunnock by her
marriage contract.

The estate was shortly thereafter purchased by John Stirling,
who made many alterations on the mansion, and was succeeded by
his son, the late Colonel John Stirling, when in his minority, and
it now remains in that family. The memory of the late Colonel
Stirling is held in the highest respect amongst the villagers for his
generosity and sympathy in their affairs, no less for his courtesy

ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

and amiability of character by his friends and the neighbouring
gentry.

i 51 <

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&~v-yyi- cucca^e..

CHAPTER ALL

Polmaise Old Mansion

S situated in a fine wooded
(/ park on the banks of the

i river Forth, about midway be-
tween Stirling- and Airth, and is
a plain, three storey, long build-
ing, with wings. The situation
is low, and the mansion ground
must be subject to the river's
floodings. It has no noticeable architectural features beyond a gable-

360 AXCIF.XT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

like projection with a tympanum, and below it a tablet with the initials
J.M. A G. (John Murray and Anna Gordon of Durie, his wife), and
date 1697. A similar tablet, with same initials and date, is inserted in
the wall of Kerse Mill, which also belongs to the Murray family. As
the owner of ancient " Pollmase " estate, Alexander Cunninghame, had
a mansion, and his ownership dates back to some period prior to 1475,
an older house must have existed here, or in the vicinity, for no part of
this building shews an antiquity earlier than the date of the tablet.

The name "Pollmase" occurs in a charter of David II., dated
1 147, to the Church of St. Mary, Stirling, of an " island lying between
" Pollemase and Tulibodeim."

Alexander Cunningham, Knight, hereditary Sheriff of Stirling-
shire, held the lands prior to 1475, and his daughter Cristine, married
William Murra of Touchadam, who predeceased her. Through her the
Polmaise estate came into the Murray family, whose descendants still
own it. Sir Alexander took principal part with the rebellious Lords
siding with the boy prince against his father, James III., and an
incident sug-o-estive of these troubles, arises in an action in the Court of
Session, in February, 1489, a few months after the battle of Sauchie-
burn, when a Thomas Tod sues him and a James Livingston for an
account, the defence pleaded being that the money " was for our
sovereign's use to buy gunpowder." Sir Alexander also appears in
Court on two other occasions, one for contempt of Court, in failing as
Sheriff to enforce a decree of that Court ; but he was acquitted on the
explanation that the creditor had compounded with his debtor, against
whom the decree was granted. On 12th October, 1501, he voluntarily
renounces for himself and son the hereditary office of Sheriff of Stirling
in favour of the Provost and Bailies of that town, to whom, by their

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POLMAISE OLD MANSION. 363

jurisdiction over the burgesses, naturally belonged this right. The
King, overlooking his confirmation of the Magistrates in this office,
appointed John, Earl of Mar, and his son, Robert Erskine, to it. The
Magistrates, however, successfully resisted in Court Mar's attempt to
displace them. James Cunningham, prior to 1555, held the Barony
acquired from his father, and was succeeded by his daughter, Isabella,
who married and had a son, James, who took his mother's surname and
succeeded to it.

The above William " Murra " was succeeded in his portion of the
Barony by a son, John, who left two daughters, evidently by different
marriages, as they are named Jonet Murray, elder, and Jonet Murray,
younger. Jonet, the elder, was, in 1555, elected to the unusual female
privilege of being " enterit in her fader's freedom of Burgess and Gild
Breitker " of Stirling. On 18th July, 1603, John Murray, presumably
a son of one of the married daughters taking his mother's surname, is
Provost of Stirling, and in 1618, lets Kerse Mill to the town in an
emergency. In 1671 he gets assistance by collections to bridge the
burn at his mill. In 1689, he, or his son of same name, designed as
Laird of Polmaise, is appointed a Commissioner by the Cromwellian
Government, along with three neighbouring gentlemen, to carry through
the first election of Provost and Town Council for Stirling. Much
irritation was caused in the town, arising out of a litigation as to the
Laird of Polmaise's claim to hold a fair at Brocksbrae in competition
with Stirling, during the years 1705 and 1707, and some feeling is
exhibited in the minutes of the Council against him.

The selection of Polmaise for the family residence and the erection
of this mansion may be ascribed to John Murray, whose initials and
date, 1697, appear on it (sketch, page 359). On one of the tablets on
Kerse mill is the lettering, " 16. M.S. 72." and " 17. p.' 54."

;64

ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

This mansion, no doubt, superseded the original family residence
of the Murrays at Murrayswood, or Touchadam, the foundations of
which are still pointed out in the " Haining Shaw," a level, wooded
plain some 300 or 400 yards on the south and at the foot of Gillieshill
crag, and at the back of Garter mansion. The situation gives the
derivation of the park's name. These foundations, unenclosed, nowhere
exceed 2 feet above the ground, are partially concealed by the growth
of the turf, and all lie within an area of 90 feet by 60 feet. The outline
of an oblong building running east and west, 42 feet by 18 feet, and
walls 3 feet, 4 inches thick, can be traced, with two square buildings,
15 feet by 15 feet, probably towers, at each angle, and something like a
doorway in the middle of the north side. The ruins are mainly conjec-
tural, have no natural defensive position, and no outworks ; and it is not
easy to accept the tradition that they form the remains of a residence
to so great a family in the troublous times of the fifteenth century. The
Polmaise mansion continued to be the Murray residence down to the
succession of the present descendant, Colonel Murray, about 35 years
ago, who erected, near the ancient residence in Murrayswood, the pre-
sent splendid baronial mansion, to which the family removed. An old

sun dial in the garden of Polmaise,
erected apparently in Queen Anne's
reign, and the porter lodge, of a more
recent date, have the coats of arms
of the Murray family. That on the
dial has the lion supporters "rampant
gardant," or fronting. The correct
p£J7 form (" rampant " only) is on the
lodge, as in the annexed sketch.

CHAPTER ALU.

Gartavartane Castle and Qartmore

Mansion.

PHE ancient name was also Gartallartane, and prior to 1509 was
* owned by a John Lindsay, giving the Barony the name of Gartar-
tane Lindsay, by which this part was subsequently known. The old
castle or fortalice is on a rocky eminence about 300 or 400 yards east
of the mansion house of Gartmore, and consists of a low square
building of not more than one storey and vaulted ground floor, 27 feet
on each side, with two towers on the south-east and north-west angles,
15 and 18 feet in diameter respectively. A small, pepper-box turret
overhang's the door, which is on the east side of the largest tower. The
walls vary from 5 to 4 feet in thickness, and the two vaulted chambers

;66

ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

in the ground floor are each 15 feet by 15 feet, have apertures in their
ceilings, with moveable flags in the floors above for covering them, and
slits for windows. The towers, especially the larger with doorway and
stair, have many loopholes, the doorway being low and narrow (3 feet
wide), and with a large lintel stone, 4^ feet by 3 feet. The whole
buildings are of rough but strong masonry, and that and the above
description points to its having been built specially for strength and the
protection of its inmates from marauders. It is on the borders of
Menteith Stewartry, where a lawless state existed, complaints of which
were made to Queen Mary, who held the Steward of Doune Castle
responsible for the disturbances.

No initials, date, coat of arms, or ornamental work appear on the
Castle's walls, but all is severely rude and massive. A coat of arms
(sketch, page 365), with a date, 1686, is inserted over the garden gate-
way. It has the initials S.J.G. and is quartered with the arms (ist.and
4th) of Graham, (2nd and 3rd) of Stewart, and (4th) Menteith; and the
escutcheon of pretence is the Nova Scotia badge. These are the

initials and arms of Sir John Graham, and
have apparently been removed from the
mansion to their present position on some
alteration taking place. There are no less
than four sun dials. We oive this sketch and
another (page 372) as being the two most
ancient and interesting. These recorders
of time are a common feature in ancient
country mansions, especially between 1600
and 1640. The stone of the carved dials —
a hard blue stone, noted for its endurance of
weather effects — was obtained from the

GARTAVARTANE CASTLE AND GARTMORE MANSION. 369

quarry of Kingudy, near Dundee, which belonged to Provost Robert
Mylne. Another interesting object is the primitive belfry, a couple of
large trees, close to the ivy-covered walls, intertwining, in a cleft of
whose branches is hung a large bell with a rope, which is coiled round
a lower limb when not in use.

The land or estate of Gartmore (a later name) is composed of
parcels of land acquired at different periods of time by the Graham
family. The oldest named, Wester Gartavartane, dates back to the
ownership of a Robert Noble, in 1452, and another, to Elizabeth Men-
teith of Rusky, in 1495 ; but the portion on which the old Castle seems
built, refers to the possession of John Lindsay prior to 1509, when he
sold it to a Dormundo Johnstone, alias Makfersoun, and Isabella
Stewart, his wife.

In 1526 James V, confirms a charter to an Aulay Mackalway and
Grissel Symple, his wife, of the lands of Gartmore, extending to a
12 merk land of old extent ; and on 24th January, 1555, Walter Mack-
alway, his heir, sold these lands to Robert Graham, brother-german of
John Graham, Earl of Menteith, with the mill of Gartmore, etc. The
subsequent history is far from clear.

On 21st January, 1573, James VI. gives a charter to William
Graham, son and heir-apparent of Gelbert Graham de Gartavartane, of
4 merk land of Gartavertane Lindsay, the portion containing the Castle.
On 27th May, 1606, Robert Graham receives charter, as son and heir
of the said William Graham, both of Gartmore and Gartavartane
Lindsay; and in October, 1624, Agneta Graham, sole child of Robert,
succeeds as his heiress. She seems to have died without issue, and the
succession fell back to William Grahams' heirs, as on 12th February,
1695, Sir John Graham of Gartmore, soldier, is infeft as heir male of

ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

line to Sir William, in both Gartmore and Gartavartane, besides other
lands. Lady Elizabeth Graham, in December, 1633, married William,
afterwards Sir William Graham of Gartmore, and had a son, Sir John,
and a daughter, Mary. The Earl of Menteith died in 1694 without
issue, and left his personal estate to this Sir John, whose armorial

Ja~n^i~tw~o~n^<L- <_-ce.

'7*3-

bearings and initials and date appear in the sketch, page 365. Sir John
died in 1708 without issue, and Mary Hodge, daughter of his sister,
Mary Graham, succeeded to him in 1 7 1 3, and married her relative,
William Graham of Gallengad, claimant to the Earldom of Menteith.
Her elder son, Sir John, died without issue, in 1740 (?), and the second

GARTAVARTANE CASTLE AND GARTMORE MANSION. 37 I

son, a medical student, renounced his succession to Gartmore in favour
of Nicol Graham, for " 1000 merks wherewith to purchase chirurgical
instruments." The Earl conditioned with the first Sir John to erect two
statues, one to himself and one to his Countess, over their graves in
Inchmahome, giving" minute details of design and quality of workman-
ship, and these effigies still exist.

The tablet with Sir John Graham's initials and coat of arms would
be substantial evidence of his having built the mansion, but the last of
the Graham proprietors, Robert B. Cunningham Graham, Esq., has
written us that his ancestor, Nicol Graham, who was owner of the
estate in 1705, built it, and that the oldest sun dial belongs also to his
time, while the other was erected in 1813. This would indicate that
another mansion was erected after the abandonment of the Castle, and
the present one may be erected on its site, or incorporated with its
walls.

Nicol Graham, it was, who created the village, giving long leases
off the estate at almost nominal rents. He had a son, William, who
seems to have predeceased him, and his three daughters, Eliza, Mar-
garet, and Harriet, on 22nd July, 1789, are infeft as heiresses-portioners
to their grandfather in the estate.

Robert Graham, designed as of Gartmore, on 20th August, 1 790,
gets sasine in parts of Bucklyvie, and infefts his spouse, Elizabeth
Buchanan, therein.

The old Castle, a chieftain's stronghold, is stated by M 'Gibbon

and Ross, in their Castellated Architecture, to have been built by a

Malcolm Macfarlane about 1597. No data is given for this, and no

Macfarlane is found in the registers connected with either Gartavartane

or Gartmore, neither about that date nor for two centuries previously,
z

6/-

ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITV.

Andrew Graham appears as proprietor of Gartavartane about that time.
It presents features of a very early type, and its late owner, the
above Robert B. C. Graham, who ascribes it to the thirteenth century,
may be correct. The mansion and estate, the last of the family posses-
sions held in the district for centuries, have now passed out of the
Graham family, having been sold to Sir Charles Cayser.

The sketch of Gartmore mansion on page 370 is its condition
in 1783. That of the sun dial shews it to be in the form of a Roman
altar.

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CHAPTER ALII1.

Mugdock Castle and Mansion,

NCIENTLY Mukdow, Muddok, Mogdok, and
Midok, is a very old family possession of the Graham
of Montrose family. The buildings sketched in 1856,
consisted then of a tower, with entrance gateway, and
a more recent or sixteenth century mansion situated
on the edge of a small lake, near Milno-avie, on the

374 ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

ridge separating the valleys of Blane and Allander. It was protected
on two of its sides by a wall, and on the other two by the lake. The
buildings are now gone, or absorbed into the modern mansion which
occupies its site. The old Castle was twice harried and burned by the
Buchanans, from whose ancestors the lands of Carraklaid, and the lake
and islands thereof, were forfeited by James IV. for their "criminal
acts," and, in 1507, were granted to William, Earl of Montrose, who
incorporated them in his Barony of Mugdok, as afternoted ; and the
feud thus originated had been carried down from generation to genera-
tion.

An episode of the social relations between members of the old
family is revealed by a receipt, dated March, 1657, granted by Captain
Harry Graham of Killearn to James, second Marquis, his relative, for
4000 merks, specified to be for the lodging and boarding of the Marquis
and his servants for two years, during the rebuilding of the ruined Castle.

The tower is, undoubtedly, from its antiquity, that mentioned in
the charter of James III. in 1488, after alluded to, and the mansion
much later, but probably in 1657, by James, when rebuilding the
tower. The buildings which had been occupied by the late Sheriff
Guthrie Smith, were removed in 1875, when the present mansion
superseded them.

The castle and Barony of Mugdock were held by Patrick. Lord
Graham, as far back as 1444. In 1458, the various lands were incor-
porated by James II. into the free Barony of " Mukdow." On 23rd
May, 1488, James III. confirms William, Lord le Graham, inter alia,
in the lands and Barony of " Muddok," with the castle and mill thereof,
and also the lands of Athra (Airthrey, Bridge of Allan), succeeding to
Patrick by "failure of heirs of his body." On 10th August, 1507,

MUGDOCK CASTLE AND MANSION. 375

James IV. gives to William, Earl of Montrose, Lord Graham, the lands
of Carraklaid with the lake and islands thereof, along with the island of
Inchgarroch and Lochkadowne, formerly in the county of Stirling, then
in Dumbarton, which in the charter is stated to have " been held by
Walter Buchanan's ancestors, but forfeited by and adjudged to his
royal ancestor, King James I., for certain criminal acts (/oris fecerunt)"
and it was united to the Earl's Barony of Mugdock. He was suc-
ceeded by his grandson, John, who died in 1608. On 23rd May, 1581,
James VI. confirms John Graham, son and heir apparent of the said John
Graham, Earl of Montrose, Lord Graham, in, inter alia, the lands and
Barony of Mukdok and Dundaffmuir, with the tower and fortalicc of
Mukdok, mills, fishings, woods, and tenants, and lake and its fishings,
advocation of the Churches of Killearn and Dundaffmuir (Kirk c' Muir),
and chaplainry of the altar of Holy Cross in the Parish Church of
Dunbarton ; and who, from a letter dated from Mugdock to his factor,
Laurence Graham, Kincardine, on 28th July, 1625, had made the
castle his principal residence. On 28th March, 1627, James, Earl of
Montrose, Lord Graham and Mugdock (the celebrated first Marquis
of Montrose, then only 14 years of age, and who was executed on
21st May, 1650), succeeded, as heir to his father, the said John, in said
lands and Barony, with tower and fortalice of Mukdock. lake, fishinos,
and advocations as above, as also in the lands and Barony of Atkra,
with salmon fishings in river Allan, etc. On 26th March, 1665, his son
James, second Marquis of Montrose and Earl of Kincardine, as his
heir, succeeds to the same lands and Barony and tower and fortalice
of Mukdok (he died in 1669) ; and so on, down to the present Duke
of Montrose's ownership of both Mugdock Castle, and other lands,

**zM**"'

"/A.

CHAPTER ALIV.

Kilbryde Castle

I S so named from the ancient Chapel of St. Bridget, the ruins of
* which existed some years ago distant about 200 or 300 yards to
the east of it, the site being now occupied by a tasteful small church,
In Blaeu's map of 1652 the castle is named " Kirkbride."

The lands formed part of the estate of Malise, Earl of Menteith,
and were gifted by him to his son and heir, Sir John, named of the
"bright sword," who was confirmed by charter of James III., dated
7th April, 1469, and he is allowed, as the first owner, to have built the
old castle. It is situated on the Ardoch stream, about 2 miles east of
Doune, and is one, if not perhaps the most typical in this district, of
the old Scottish Baronial semi-castle of the transition period between

3/8 ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

the square keep and the more modern manor house. . Situated as it is,
with a small piece of flat ground, on a miniature rocky spur, surrounded
on three sides by steep cliffs forming a deep glen, in which the Ardoch,
here a mountainous torrent, rushes, and having erected across the neck
of the spur where it joins the mainland a strong built wall (its other
defence), entered by an arched gateway, the only approach, it is a
veritable stronghold. This gateway had a ponderous iron gate, the
padlock and key whereof, corresponding in massiveness, weighed some
20 pounds, and the former contained a secret ingenious mechanism
regulating the key's power of opening and shutting it subject to the
possessor of this knowledge. A series of steps cut in the rock leads
down the cliff to the stream, in the bed of which a line of boulders form
stepping-stones for crossing it at this point, which are now to give way
to a light suspension bridge. These stepping-stones, from their worn
footstep marks, must have been in frequent use for a long time. The
castle holds a wild, romantic, and strong situation, rendering it impreg-
nable from the primitive weapons of its time.

The ground floor, all vaulted chambers, sunk in the rock, contains
the ancient kitchen, with an arched fire-place of 9 feet by 5 feet, and
over this is erected the old parts of the castle. Tradition assigns to
Mary, Queen of Scots, a chamber in the square tower, with its two
turrets, facing the south-east and overlooking the rocky, wooded glen
with its stream flowing 100 feet below ; and perhaps to this tradition
this part of the old castle owes its preservation, as extensive alterations
have been made on the other parts. This apartment is 18 feet by
15 feet, the breadth of the building, and the two turrets entered from it
are 5 feet by 4 feet each, while the walls here are 4^ feet thick.

The old parts of the castle furnish a ghost story — the murdered

iH^cLe- -g>ou*jL(U.

KILBRYDE CASTLE. 38 I

daughter of the laird of Cromlix appearing to its inmates periodically,
at midnight, in the Black Knight of Kilbryde, her murderer's apartment,
accompanied by the rustling of a silk dress.

The Earl of Malise was indebted for 400 merks to James Mushet
of Tolgarth, and the Lords of Council and Session, on 7th May, 1487,
for lack of moveables to distress, granted decree adjudging Kilbryde
for the debt ; thus overriding the Earl's grant to his son, Sir John,
married to Mary Mushet, apparently a daughter of James, who had
entered upon and drawn the rents down to 27th February, 1491. The
tenants appear in Court and complain of double distress, as the widow
of John (who had died) claimed her terce (a third of the rents) from
them also, when decreet was given preferring her. On 27th June, 1492,
Alexander Graham, as heir of Earl Malise, claims the estate, producing
in court the charter of the Earl to his son and heir, the umquhile Sir
John, and pleads its anterior date to that of James Mushet's decree of
adjudication. Following him, Patrick, Earl of Bothwell, claims it as
"a tenantry of Bothwile and hadden off him in chief as Erl of Both-
wile." Alexander, however, gained the estate, and, succeeding to the
Earldom of Menteith, conveyed it to his son, Walter Graham, the
" Black Knight." The lands shortly after his succession seem to have
been forfeited to the Crown, and on 29th April, 1508, James IV., for
his faithful services, grants them to Henry Schaw, soldier, explaining
that they were formerly Alexander, Earl of Menteith 's, but alienated
by the King.

On 7th June, 1509, James IV. confirms charter by Henry Shaw,
for his affection, to Mariote Forrester, daughter of Walter Forrester of
Torwood, of part of the lands, with its mill, and 3 merk lands of
" Coldoch Eister." On 3rd July following, the King grants to Malcolm

382 ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

Drummond " de Magoure," a third of the lands and mill, referring also
to its alienation from Alexander, Earl of Menteith. On 3rd February,
1 5 12, the King confirms a charter of the said Alexander to his son, the
said Walter Graham, of part of the lands which Alexander had held.
On 2nd February, 1532, James V. granted the same lands explaining
the former conveyances to Henry Schaw and Malcolm Drummond. to
Alexander, Earl of Menteith, and his heirs. On 12th December, 157 1,
James VI. confirms a charter by William, Earl of Menteith, with
certain consents, to Margaret Douglas, his spouse, in liferent, on a con-
tract of marriage, of the Earldom of Menteith and, inter alia, £$0
lands of ancient extent of Kilbride, with the tower, fortalice and mill of
the same. On 6th November, 1610, William, Earl of Menteith, is
confirmed by the King in the lands of Bina, a third part of Kilbryde,
mill of Bina, etc., and on 23rd July, 1680, John Graham de Boutoun
succeeds as heir of Thomas Graham, son of Walter Graham, his uncle,
in the church lands called Boutoun de Kilbryde ; and on 31st August,
1687, William Graham, his son, succeeds thereto. Sir James Campbell
of Aberuchil's ancestors purchased the parts containing the castle it is
alleged about 1669, in whose descendants it remains.

The castle which has been modernised, has the ancient parts
tastefully incorporated in the extensive additions, all executed in
harmony with the old Scotch Baronial style of architecture, to which
its situation and surroundings add a picturesque interest (see frontis-
piece to book). These additions, however, render the identification of
the ancient parts difficult without an examination of the interior of the
mansion. The sketches on pages ^yy and 379 are prior to the repairs
on the castle, and that on page 383 as it now appears. It also contains
several fine old portraits of Sir James' ancestors, and a very important

KIL15RVDE CASTLE.

one of Mary, Queen of Scots, which seems to be contemporary with
the century in which she lived, and a good work of art.

){l£8~^cL.

CHAPTER ALV.

Robert Graham of Panholes.

I— « the two crow-stepped gabled houses adjoining

each other facing Broad Street, the ancient

f'J Hie Gait, the double-gabled one on the west,

although apparently the oldest, has no pretensions

;86

ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

to architectural or artistic interest, bears no name, or initials, date, or
inscription, but the ground floor is extensively vaulted, and would be
erected about the end of the sixteenth or in the first decade of the
seventeenth century. The back part, as seen from the close, has a
square turnpike stair and projecting eaves and windows, having a
suggestion of one of the old picturesque English houses of the seven-
teenth century still seen in many English country towns.

This ludoino- or another on its site, is said to have belonged to
James Kirk, Commissioner to the Duke of Argyll, in 1529, and then
to John Graham of Baldoran (also designed as of Oueenshaugh), Town
Clerk of Stirling, who was succeeded by William Graham, his son. In
1599 the ludging, along with Easter, Middle, and Wester Panholes,
with cottaries, brewhouses, and mills in Blackford, passed to his son,
Robert, who in 161 5, also made up title to Baldoran, as heir to his
grandfather, John, and in 1628, to an annual rent of ^20 over Nether
Caldwell, Kilsyth. The house appears to have been built in his time.

£*

CHAPTER ALVI.

Erskine of Gogar's Ludging.

> fi pvJ r* the foot of and fronting Broad Street, the

* former Hie Gait, is a three-storey tenement
^J built of regular courses of chiselled stone, with
three dormer windows, but there are no initials,
x \ date, or ancient inscription on it, although one of
the dormers bears marks of an obliterated date.
The tradition of its having been the royal nursery may arise from the
fact that the house was at one time the property of the Erskines of
Mar, who were hereditary keepers of Stirling Castle, and had also
charge of the heirs of the Scottish throne from James V. down to
Prince Henry. Lord John Erskine, afterwards Earl of Mar, disponed
this house to his younger brother, Alexander Erskine of Gogar and
Canglour, whose son, Thomas, Earl of Kellie, sold it to Jonet Kilbowie.
The supposition that this was Willie Bell's tavern, when the Secretary

:SS

ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITV.

Lethington was visited by Queen Mary in 1566, may probably be true.

The Burgh Treasurer's Accounts show that in Jonet Kilbowie's time,

between 1650 and 1660, the house was a thriving tavern and the scene

of municipal festivities. One entry, dated September, 1651, reads as

follows : —

" Item, depursit, to Jonet Kilbowie, which wes spent the tyme of the
capitulation by and attour quhat is specifieit in the former
count at the said capitulation, ... ... ... ... ... ^10 11 4''

This was the surrender to General Monk in the previous August. At

this~time every trifling event
seems to have been made an
excuse for convivial meetings by
the Provost, Bailies, and Town
Councillors, all at the expense
of the town.

The old ludoqno- of which a
sketch of the back view is given,
as being less altered, was occu-
pied by the Stirling Bank, and
latterly, by the Sheriff Clerk as
his chambers, in which was the
Sheriff's room ; and the Bank's
safe was used for preserving the
County Registers of Deeds, etc.

pr^» '

ji)Li*J-H~ct. Jhcx,(L(L1 ^)cutc^.i

CHAPTER ALVII.

Little Sauchie Castle,

I"\ OOF LESS, feudal mansion of the early six-
^^ teenth century, is perched upon the verge of
a rocky chasm through which Sauchie burn runs,
and which forms its natural defence on the
north and east sides. The ground plan of the
buildings is of the usual L shape, the longer and
east limb being about 36 feet, and on the north

390 ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

side 30 feet, and the shorter limb on the west, 12 feet, respectively in
length. The latter contains the entrance hall and stair. Band stones
on the west corner of the south gable indicate the wall of an enclosing
courtyard. The ground floor consists of two barrel-vaulted chambers,
having loopholes commanding the doorway. On the first floor entered
from the stair is the dining hall, 27 feet by 18 feet, having three
arched windows on the east, two on the west, and a very large one in
the south walls (sketch, page 389). The dormitories on the floor
above the dining hall, were reached by a narrow turret stair in the east
wall of that apartment. The kitchen, originally a one-storey building,
has an arched fireplace 9 feet wide. Numerous artfully contrived
loopholes are inserted on the ground floor and turret in the east wall,
commanding all approaches from that side ; and a wide subterranean
conduit passes under the kitchen floor, having its exit on the cliff. It
seemed to be closed by a wall about 1 2 feet from its exit, but the
factor told me it had been proved to have a connection with the stream,
immediately above the castle, from which water was drawn. It is
possibly only an ancient house or cesspool drain flushed from the burn.

No coat of arms, initials, or date appear on the oldest part of the
building, although a stone under the upper window in the north wall,
which has evidently been put there in the recent repairs, appears to
have the letter E on it. On the lintel of a back door in the wing are
the initials J.R. J.S. 1772. Whom they represent is uncertain, as the
Ramsay family did not obtain the estate till fourteen years after this date.

As the chasm in the rock, through wrhich the burn tumbles over a
waterfall right under the walls of the castle, is very deep, and clothed
with dense foliage, the ancient ruined mansion, with its tower and
corner turrets, has an artistic and picturesque effect. On the dovecot,

LITTLE SAUCHIE CASTLE.

situated in the flat ground below the castle, also in ruins (sketch, page
394), is a tablet with a defaced coat
of arms and, indistinctly, the letters
G. (or J.) F. and date 1700, as shewn in
this sketch. It is therefore of a com-
paratively recent period.

The lands were originally conveyed
by James II. under his marriage con-
tract, dated 1st July, 145 1, inter alia,
in security of ^5000 annually to his
consort, Queen Marie. On 1st May,
1528, James V., with consent of Dow-
ager Queen Margaret Tudor, widow of James IV., grants them under
a charter to Alexander Douglas de Manys and Margaret Stewart, his
spouse, with an obligation to build a mansion house and lay out the ground
in policies — the feu duty of ^"13 4s. 6d. to be paid to his mother and, after
her death, to himself. This charter, however, was superseded, and the fol-
lowing note appears in the margins of the Register against the entry :—

" Nota quod carta Alex. Dowglas subscript, non levatur sub magno sigillo super terris
de Litlc Sauchy, sed postea Jacob. Erskin in feodatus erat in eisde/n per cartaiu
feodifirme ut patet inferius in present i regis tro." *

On 3rd May following, a new charter is granted by the King, with

consent of his mother, in similar terms, to "our special servant, James

Erskin, brother- german of John, Lord Erskin," the feu duty of £13

4s. 6d. et obulum payable to the Queen's camerariis, with the same

obligation to build a mansion house, etc. This charter was confirmed

on 7th June, 1541, by James V., with above consent, to the said James

* "Note. — That ihe annexed charter of Alexander Douglas is not abrogated (cancelled) under the
Great Seal to the lands of Little Sauchie, although afteiwards James Erskin was infeft in the same lands
by a feu charter, as appears later on in this Register,"

594

ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

■-'A

Erskin and Cristine Striveling, his spouse, and the heirs of their
marriage, whom failing', the husband's heirs, and continuing the same
obligations. Thus Sir James Erskine built the mansion, probably
about the date of his marriage to Dame Cristine.

In 1776 a gentleman of the plebeian name of John Cheap of Sauchie
appears as owner, mortgaging the estate, and in 1786 these burdens
are discharged when William Ramsay of Barnton purchased it from his
creditors. On 9th September, he was infeft, in a charter under the
Great Seal, dated 7th August, 1786, not only therein, but also in the
lands of Chartershall, with its mansion house, milneholm, teinds, etc.,
and on the same day he is also infeft, in a disposition by the trustees
for the creditors of Sir James Campbell of Ardkinglas, in parts of the
lands of Dundaff. The estates have continued in the Ramsay

family ever since, who have
laid out and beautified the
grounds surrounding the
mansion, and recently erec-
ted a magnificent Baronial
mansion some half-a-mile
west of the earlier building.
William Ramsay is now
represented by Miss Mait-
land, only child of the late
Sir James Maitland, who
also holds Barnton, and
this lady has taken a lov-
ing care of this mediaeval
Erskine mansion.

friis>BmncftXAs»BUM

i %.s*

Sfm^i

\4\ YX° B7-TE ; I U-ST IC • 0 Si

«s^esi»sss

CHAPTER ALVIII.

Charterha' Mansion.

PHE baronial residence of Sir William Charteris, Knight, of
* Cagnoir, or Canglor, surrounded by a large park, with a wall,
and close to the Bannock burn, appears on Font's Map of 1654, and
on Edgar's more recent one of 1745. No portion of the ancient
mansion now exists, but the situation of the present farm dwelling-
house, outhouses, and other erections attached to it, corresponds exactly
to its ancient position. There are evidences of the stones having
been utilised in the building of these erections, as some of them,
3 and 4 feet long, are visible. The farm house itself is built of regular,
chiselled freestone courses, which are hid by a coating of white-wash.
The park wall is traceable through its whole boundaries. The situation
is within a few hundred yards of the hamlet and bridge of Chartershall,
and a similar distance from the ancient mills of Cultenhore.

The estate was erected into a Barony and held by Sir William
Charteris prior to 1470, when he conveyed them to his eldest son and
heir apparent, Thomas Charteris, and his spouse, Euphemia Broys, by
a deed of cassation executed on his behalf by another son, David. On

396 ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

5th November, 147 J, Sir William warns his son and his wife to com-
pear in his Barony court to surrender Craigquarter, Little Cangnor,
and Bukesyde, and to reseize them in the £ 20 lands of Cangnor, which
failing to do, he recognosced and took re-possession. Sir William
seems to have been married twice, his last, on 2nd November, 1478,
being- to Isabella, or Elizabeth, Stewart, daughter of Arthur Stewart of
Albany ; and he died in the end of the following year, his widow
appearing in a breve Of terce on 31st October, 1479, in which she got
decree against another son, also a Sir William, and his tenants, on
3rd July, 1480. Sir John Bruce of Stanehouse, in 1478, appears as a
vassal of Sir William.

Sir William, the second, seems to have been succeeded by his son,
Sir Robert Charterhouse, and he by Sir John of Kinfauns ; and on
17th November, 1559, Sir John was succeeded by his son, also a Sir
John, in the lands and Barony of Cangnor, with the mill and lake, etc.,
and the right of leading a stream through the lands of Sauchie to his
mill.

The lands and mansion house were afterwards held by Alan Rae
of Pitsindie, who, in default of a son, was succeeded by his daughters,
Anna, Helen (married to Sir Thomas Hope, p. 326), and Elizabeth, as
heiresses-portioners, in the Barony, with "the mansion called Chartour-
hall." Shortly thereafter the Barony and mansion were acquired by
Master James Chrystie of Stenton, whose son, James, was infeft therein.
James Cheap of Little Sauchie then acquired them, and his creditors
sold the mansion house along with the adjoining Barony of Little
Sauchie, in August, 1786, to William Ramsay of Barnton, banker in
Edinburgh, and on 4th October, 1792, he infefts himself in liferent, and
his son, Peter, in fee, in the " mansion house and mains of Charters-

CHARTERHA MANSION.

397

hall." Other parts of the Barony were held by Sir Archibald Edmon-
ston of Duntreath, who conveyed these to his son, George, in 1786.
The Barony remains in the Maitland family, but no vestige of the
mansion exists, except what is embodied in the farm house and offices.
The slab with inscription taken from the ancient bridge over the
Bannock at Chartershall village when replaced by the present bridge
(also containing a panel with the inscription, " This Bridge was rebuilt
by the Justices of the Peace, 1747 "), has been carefully preserved by
Miss Maitland, the present proprietrix of the estate. We give a sketch
of it on page 395. It replaced a still older bridge, to the repair of
which, in 1682, St. Ninian's Kirk-Session gave 10 merks. The lintel
of a door in the ruins of a superior freestone house adjoining the north
side of the bridge, has the initials, " 17 W.F. 61." It has probably
been built with stones from the old Chartershall mansion.

\^%

tl k|M»u^tiiuiua ' *U ' ' ' imlimj^PHftj. ^

■_7W

to/

cT^i^e- Co «. c2-

X„^.

CHAPTER ALIA.

Castle Campbell, anciently Dolare or

Gloum Castle,

vS one of the few feudal residences of a Scottish nobleman of the first

rank now in the district. Romantically situated on a small trian-
gular spur of the Ochils, overlooking the town of Dollar, and insulated

400 ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

on its east and west sides by rifts in the mountain, through which flow
two streams that unite at its apex, and forming thus a mountain torrent
of some volume, rushes noisily down the wooded glen. It debouches
therefrom just above the town, through which it continues a quieter
course until it joins the river Devon. The castle, tower, and gateway,
with its wall, completely crosses the narrow neck joining the spur to the
mainland or mountain. The chasms on the other three sides are of
great depth, and form complete natural defences to those parts of the
castle, and the front, having the gateway, being approachable only by
a steep path, must have made this stronghold impregnable in those
early times when the artillery was of a primitive kind. With modern
artillery, however, the surrounding mountains would give a complete
command of the castle. Its capture and destruction by Montrose, in
1645, was considered a military achievement. The ascent is so intensely
steep and rough by either mountain road or glen path, that the cartage
of the stones (its walls are of free stone) and the necessary building
materials in the castle's construction, is a marvellous work of ingenuity
and labour, and reflects favourably on the capacity of the workmen of
the mediseval age. The beautiful though rocky pathway through this
picturesque wooded glen, which, from its high enclosing walls, is never
susceptible to the sun's rays, with its rushing torrent and lonely castle,
forms a romantic and interesting excursion.

This castle was amongst the first residences of the noble family of
Argyll, wherein many of its members were born, and married in the old
Church of Dollar, the ruins of which still remain, and in whose church-
yard others have been buried. The ground plan or arrangement of
its buildings, as shewn by the rough sketch on page 399, is an internal
square court, with east, south and front sides occupied by buildings,

CASTLE CAMPBELL.

40I

and the west by a high wall. The front containing the great tower,
gateway, and a high strong-built continuing wall, extends about go feet,
right across the neck of the spur, and completely protects that side.
The square tower, about 80 feet high, with four turrets at the angles
and machicolated battlements, is on the north-east corner ; and the
archway door, 1 1 feet by 7 feet, has had a heavy barred gate and a
portcullis, with a double or second gate on the court side. The lower

|L Wr 'I'm ?/■■

fW4t

'//£>, :f/.W't%s,

W.fJLe.Q.l.

402 ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

part or apex of the triangular spur is the garden, with steps in the. rock
to a well, and has a sheer depth of fully ioo feet to the bed of the
stream. The great tower, built of chiselled ashlar courses in a sub-
stantial and workmanlike manner, is four storeys high, having one
large apartment, 27 feet by 15 feet in each, and with walls decreasing
from 6 feet in thickness on the ground floor to 5 feet at the top. The
first and second floors have elegant and wide fireplaces, 9 feet by 6 feet,
shewing these to have been the sitting apartments. The entrance to
the first and other two floors is by the square, outside tower, but
circular within, on its south side. That to the ground floor — a vaulted,
bare apartment, probably the guard room — is near the gateway on the
west side, and is entered by three steps. This chamber is isolated from
the other parts of the tower, having no internal communication. The
topmost apartment and the two apartments, 14 feet square, on the
ground floor of the east wing, have all most handsomely ribbed vaulted
ceilings. All these buildings are roofed and occupied by the caretaker
and his family.

The large building completely filling the south side of the court
seems composed of three rooms, all roofless, and its upper walls in ruins.
The largest apartment, 40 feet by 22 feet, has a fine fireplace, four
small and one very large handsome window, 9 feet by 6 feet, all in the
south wall, and commanding an unrivalled and extensive view of the
wooded glen and the plain beyond. I was informed that this large
window was filled with coloured glass, but both Q-lass and sashes are
now gone. There is also a niche, either for a saint's image, or for a
press, in it. This apartment was no doubt the banqueting hall, and
may also have been used as the family chapel. The other two apart-
ments flank this hall on either side, and the whole building is entered

CASTLE CAMPBELL.

403

from the court by a singular tower, which has three heraldic shields,
divested of markings, but in relief, over the doorway (sketch, page 399).
The court at its widest is 1

84 feet by 60 feet, and there

is some under vaulting in ("da,,'hu"^

East

</i{jj rim

West "

10 ft

Nin-Lli.

the south wing entered from
it.

A Colin Campbell was
Master of James III.'s
household, and held with it
other official appointments.
He joined the rebel Lords in the rebellion which culminated on the
field of Sauchieburn. His grandfather, also Colin, held the adjoining-
Barony of Menstrie in 1402, but no reference to a castle or house
appears in the Registers until the charter of James IV. in favour of
Lord Archibald, Earl of Argyll, dated nth May, 1497. Archibald's
great-grandfather held the lands, and was succeeded by his son,
Duncan, who, again, was succeeded by Colin, the second, Archibald's
father, who had divided these lands, formerly called " Church Lands of
Campbell," into three divisions, two of which were held by the Bishop
of Dunkeld and the third by Lord Archibald himself. By indenture of
agreement between him, George, Bishop of Dunkeld, Duncan Camp-
bell of Glen Urquha, and Isabella Stewart, relict of Colin, who had
held the two divisions and had given them to the Holy House and
Chapter of Dunkeld, the whole of the lands are conveyed to Archibald,
in whose favour the charter is made. They are therein described as
"the Church Lands of Campbell, alias Do/are or Gloum so called, with

the castle and fortalice of the same," and are put into the fetters of a
b 2

4o4

Ancient castles and mansions of Stirling nobility.

strict entail. Isabella reserves her liferent, and the reddendo, 16 merks
sterling, is given to the Bishopry of Dunkeld. The indenture is signed
at Dunkeld on 31st January, 1493.

We see from a charter signed at Stirling by James V., dated 1 8th
January, 1526, that Archibald, as son and heir apparent of Colin, is
entered, inter alia, in the lands of Menstrie, with mill, and also " in the
lands of Gloume, with castle and fortalice called " Castle Campbell."
It reserves a liferent to Colin, who is thus shewn to be then alive, and
consequently not the Colin mentioned in the preceding paragraph, but
probably a brother who had succeeded to him, and this Colin would be a
nephew. The point of interest is the name Gloume given to the lands
and castle, which vividly describes the lonely situation of it and its
surrounding land in the sunless glen ; and to that name having been
discarded between these two dates and the ancient name of Campbell
reverted to. This change is stated to have been accomplished by act
of James IV., in 1489, at the instance of Colin, but the deed of later
date, 1493, retains the ancient term, Gloume, without reference to the
act. From several deeds dated at Castle Campbell, this family must
have occupied it for two centuries at least.

There are no names, initials, date, or coat of arms to assist us to

its builder, all such having ap-
parently been carefully erased
or removed, probably when the
Argyll family parted with the
property in 1805, and it is only
an inference that it was built
by Colin, son of Duncan, in
the middle of the fifteenth
century.

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CHAPTER L.

Newton Old Flansion, Doune,

IS an early Scotch Baronial building, with crow-stepped gables, of
* the Blairlogie Castle type, the ground plan being L-shaped. It is
situated on an eminence within 500 yards of and overlooking Doune
Castle, and bounded on the west by the Ardoch stream. The east and
main building is semicircular, suggesting a tower originally, and in it
is the doorway and staircase. The remains of the arch of a gateway
indicate the usual court formed by two walls uniting with the ends of

4oS ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

the building, and the ground floor, which is vaulted, has two loopholes
commanding the doorway. The doorway is made for an iron door,
which had been removed, and we found it preserved, in a shattered
state, in the vaults (sketch, page 407). No inscription, date, initials, or
coat of arms are visible on the building, but in the walls of a dwelling-
house at the home farm adjoining is the tablet, with arms and initials,
shewn in the sketch (page 412), which we learned was found in a cellar
of the old building, where it had been placed after some alterations,
and subsequently inserted there for preservation. From the age of
the trees surrounding- and encroaching on what was the old court, the
old mansion will probably be 250 or 300 years old.

James V., by charter dated 18th January, 15 14, for the special
services bestowed, and to be bestowed, on him and his mother, the
Queen, grants to Cristina Raa a liferent of the lands of Gartincaber
and Newton, This lady was a servant or maid of honour to the
Dowager-Oueen, and had a Judging, or town house, in Castle Wvnd,
Stirling; and in a dispute, in 1525, with a neighbour regarding its
gable, Robert Spittal (Stirling's benefactor) appears as factor for her.
She is there designed as servitrex to the Queen.

On 22nd October, 1529, the lands are granted along with others,
and with the custodianship of the Castle of Doune, to James Stewart,
Seneschal of Menteith. This includes the fishings in the lake and
waters of Gudy and Teith ; and on 2nd February, 1532, James V., a
minor, with his mother's consent, confirms this charter. On 20th
January, 1539, James V., then of full age, grants the same lands of
Newton in Doune to "our familiar servant," James Edmonston, " filio
naturali " of the late William Edmonston of Duntreath, saving the
annuity of the Queen ; and the reddendo contains an obligation "to

NEWTON OLD MANSION, DOUNE. 411

build a mansion with Policies, etc." On 5th April, 1541, the same King
grants another charter to James Edmonston of Newton, repeating the
terms of the former, with the same obligation, and he revokes the
charters of 1529 and 1532 given to James Stewart, with the captaincy
of Doune Castle, and all others. On 15th May, 1543, William and
Archibald Edmonston, brothers of James, met James Stewart in the
High Street of Dunblane. A fight ensued in which James Stewart
was killed ; historians say the quarrel arose out of the irritation caused
by the loss to the Edmonston family of the offices of Steward of
Menteith and captaincy of Doune Castle. As these appointments and
lands were, by the preceding charter, taken from Stewart, and, along
with Newton, re-granted to the Edmonstons two years previous to this
encounter, any cause of irritation and offence would be on Stewart's
part. The Edmonstons, notwithstanding, were pardoned for the crime.
On 1 st September, 1561, Mary, Queen of Scots, attempts to revive the
Stewarts' title to Newton and the custody of Doune Castle, by confirming
the grant by James V. of 22nd October, 1529, to his descendants ; but
the Edmonstons were in firm possession and retained it undisturbed.

James Edmonston is one of an assize in 1583; and on 30th August,
1589, he consents to a deed by his wife, Margaret Biset, one of the
daughters and heiresses-portioners of Walter Biset of Kynneff. He
died shortly prior to 161 6, when he was succeeded by his son John, on
14th March of that year. This John was married to Agnes Cowan,
daughter of Walter Cowan, Stirling, and their initials I.E. and A.C.
are on the foresaid tablet (page 412), which also contains three
crescents — the Edmonston arms — and two foxes' or hounds' heads,
which could not be intended for the arms of his wife, as hounds
or foxes form no part of the Cowan family arms. The original parts

412

ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

of the mansion date back to James Stewart's and to James Edmon-
ston's possession, but the sculptured tablet was put up by John
Edmonston, probably in 1630, as he died in 1639. On 23rd July
of that year, his son, James, is served heir in Newton ; and on 6th
March, 1687, James' son, also called James, succeeds him in the lands.
He died in September, 1699, and was succeeded by his brother, Patrick
Edmonston, who, on 25th February, 1706, was infeft in Newton and
also in Powhouse. his service being dated 11th December, 1705. This
Patrick was, with Stirling of Keir, involved in the Jacobite cause, and
both were tried for treason in 1 709.

The title continued in the Edmonston family, the last of them
being Miss Grizzel Kinnimund Edmonston, only surviving child of
Colonel James Edmonston, who is infeft, as heir of her deceased
brother John, on a precept from Chancery, dated 25th June, 1840, and
she by her settlement, dated 4th July, 1852, gave the liferent of the
lands to Thomas Buchanan, and the fee to John Buchanan, both of
Powis. On 4th November, 1858, John Buchanan sold the estate to
the late John Campbell, merchant in Glasgow, who changed the name
to Inverardoch ; and on his death, in 1882, it was, and still is, held
by his trustees.

CHAPTER LI.
Part I.

Cambusbarron Mansion.

™*HE name " Campisbarrone " appears in the earliest Registers of
* lands, and this estate anciently extended from St. Ninians and
the King's Park dyke, on the east and north, to Touch and Murrays-
hall, on the south and west. The mansion — from the west o>able
(sketch, page 414), all that remains — appears to have been a two-storey,
narrow, plain house, about 40 feet by 18 feet, with walls from 2\ to
3 feet thick — a yoeman's modest mansion of a type applicable to the
17th century. It is situated about 50 yards off the old highway leading

4i4

ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

through the village and on its west side. The two-storey gable is
utilized for a one-storey cottage, next to "Cromwell Cottage," built by
the late Dr. Mushet on the mansion's foundations apparently. William
\\ ordie, who acquired this part of the lands from W. Leslie of
Balquharn some few years prior to 1682, may safely be described as

the builder of the mansion. No
carved stone, initials, crest, or
date appear on the gable or cot-
tage walls. The coat of arms
on page 413 was sketched from
some heirlooms preserved in the
Wordie family, kindly lent by a
lady descendant. This sugges-
tion of the founder of the Wordie
family having erected the mansion
'/////t arises from the fact that all the
owners of Cambusbarron lands

~^^M^&M^h I preceding him held th

"■ '!"*■;< >rr$ %-Af junction with other lands wh

fmmwm

i con-
ere
their residences were built. Thus
in 1380, David II.'s reign, they
were, along with Craigforth, Tor-
wood, Skeoch, and Erth, held by
an Adam More of Abercorn — all

being included in a Barony of Cambusbarron. In Robert II.'s reign
they were held by a Hugo de Eglinton, along with Shiphauch, etc. ;
and in 1482, were owned, with the patronage of the Chapel of Cam-
busbarron, the one half by a Matthew Forrester, and the other half by

CAMBUSBARRON MANSION.

415

Alexander Lamby of Drumberry, who, in 15 10, excambed them with
Robert, Lord Erskine, for the lands of Newton in Kincardine. As
this is the first reference to the chapel, its erection may be ascribed to
the period of this joint possession.

Prior to 1603, Sir Walter Forrester of Garden owned his ancestor
Matthew's share, along with a joint patronage of the chapel, and on
that date he was succeeded by his nephew, Sir James Forrester. They
were afterwards held by the said William Leslie, who sold them to the
foresaid William Wordie, who held other lands and several tenements
in St. Ninians and Stirling.
The initials of this sketch,
which appear on the lintel
of a house in Parliament
Close, St. Ninians, are al-
leged to be William Wordie
and Ellen Doig, his wife, and the initials T.W. 1603, etc. (see page
287), on another door lintel in that court, also applies to the family,
identifying these properties as theirs.

The first occurrence of the family name is in 1560, when a
Willelmi Weirdy, nuncius vicecomitatus (Sheriff's messenger), officiates
with other two nuncios at an assize for serving James Cunningham as

heir to Polmaise and Torbrekkis estates.
In 1682 William Wordie acquired Torbrex,
and erected the old mansion house of Tor-
brex (Williamfield), as this tablet, with his
initials and those of Isobel Mushet, his
wife, and date, appears on it. His son,
John, succeeded to the estates. He married

416

ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OE STIRLING NOBILITY.

Sophia Landele, and died somewhere about 1 7 1 3, leaving two sons,
John and William. John, a merchant in Edinburgh, married Agnes
Mushet in 1737, a daughter of the Mushets of Burnbank, and he held
one half, pro indiviso, of the lands, with the alternate patronage of the
Chapel of Cambusbarron, also the mansion houses of Torbrex and
Cambusbarron, the lands of Torbrex and Kirklands of St. Ninians and
the above mentioned tenements in
St. Ninians. It is a tradition in the
family that John, a Jacobite, who re-
sided in the Cambusbarron mansion
in 1745, intercepted Prince Charles
when passing through Cambusbar-
ron with his army on his way from
Leckie House to Bannockburn

CZidQ-e-cLe-cL o-<l£o o~^- Ca»t£iui.^

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tg/L^2.

CAMBUSBARRON MANSION. 417

House, en route for England, and treated him to a refreshment of cake
and wine, which was graciously accepted ; that the Stirling Castle guns
were trained on the force when it had cleared the Park Rock concealing
it and emerged on the Torbrex lands ; and several cannon balls found
subsequently there were retained as a memento. John seems to have
changed his residence from Cambusbarron to his Torbrex mansion
(Williamfield) shortly thereafter, as his daughter, Isobel, was married
to Alexander Murray of Polmaise out of that house. He died about
1 78 1, when his trustees were vested in the lands, and they sold them
in divisions, viz., to Arthur Buchanan, who acquired 15 acres named
" Kenning Knowes," to Captain James Blair the part named " Birkhill,"
to Alexander Blair, the part named " St. Thomas' Well," and another
got " Leslie's Dryfields." The mansion house and garden went to
John Graham of Cambusdrenny, and being no doubt, with its modest
accommodation, an inconvenient residence for a family, was resold by
him on 27th February, 1786, to John Donaldson, portioner, Cambus-
barron. Ultimately becoming ruinous, it and the garden were purchased
by the late Dr. Mushet, a collateral descendant, who erected Cromwell
Cottage, some 30 years ago, as already stated.

The other pro indiviso division of Cambusbarron, with alternate
patronage of its chapel, was acquired by William Duthie in 1785, and
conveyed by him to his eldest daughter, Mary Ann, in 1798. The
descendants of the Wordie family are now represented by the Murrays
of Polmaise and Wrights of Torbrex, the former holding the superiority.

Tradition places the ancient Cambusbarron Chapel in the vicinity
of the grounds in the sketch (page 416), taken in 1854, but no trace of
ruins or foundations have been found there. However, at the neigh-
bouring farm-steading of St. Thomas' Well, originally part of Cambus-

4i8

ANCIENT CASTLES AND MASIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

barron estate, which ancient well gives a volume of water equal to
St. Ninians' Well at the old Chapel of " Tibermasko " or St. Skeoch,
there are innumerable carved and other stones of an ecclesiastical
edifice, which combined with its proximity to a noted spring, points to
its being the site of the ancient chapel ; and its well that from which
the Abbot of Inchaffray obtained the holy water to bless Robert the
Bruce and his army on the field of Bannockburn. Two stone male
half-figures, near the situation of the mansion, may have belonged
either to it or to the adjacent chapel.

Part 2.

Torbrex Mansion.

~*HE above house, in the village of Torbrex, does not represent

* the original mansion on Blaeu's Map of 1654, but one erected

by John, or Thomas, Buchanan, who obtained a feu charter in 17 19

from his relative, John Wordie. He married Ellen Campbell, whose

initials, with his and those of his mother, and his arms and date of

erection, appear on the tablet (sketch, page 420). This tablet over

the door, was removed to its present position when certain alterations,

including a porch, were made on Torbrex, and when some carved

work and an old chimney mantlepiece were taken to Polmaise House.

On 27th October, 1533, James V. confirms a charter, dated 8th

May, 1532, by Robert Bisset of Quarrel, the superior, to Duncan

Name of Bannockburn and Margaret Scot, his spouse, in the lands of

Torbrekkis, and lake and bog of the same, lying between the lands of
c 2

420

ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

Cambusbarron, the New Park, Loveylands, the Kirkiands, and South-
field, which James Binny, burgess of Stirling, had resigned. On 29th
August, 1534, James V. grants a charter thereto to James Cunningham
of Polmaise, and he was succeeded by his relative, John Cunningham
of DrumquhassiJ, as his heir, on 27th August, 1560, on a breve of
inquest before Willelmi Weirdy. Malcolm Kinross, and David Ramsay,
as Sheriff's messengers ; Margaret Aytoun, James' relict, being reserved
a liferent. On 23rd April, 1801, Charles M'Donald acquired the
mansion house and bog. It now remains the property of the Murray
family of Polmaise. The description of the boundaries and character
of the ground, lake and bog, are interesting as showing the original
nature of the subjects.

The small house at Murrayshall lime kilns is alleged to have had
the date 1673, and to have been built and occupied by John Murray
and his family prior to Polmaise mansion on the Forth, but this is
scarcely credible.

CHAPTER LII.

James Bowie's Ludging.

COURT encircled by high walls, and entered
by a ruined archway, encloses a two-storey
tenement, with dormer windows and an ornamental
doorway. This is described in an instrument of
sasine in favour of the proprietor then — John
Scott, on disposition granted to him by
Si m7JKO\ foftD Elizabeth Bowie, one of two daughters of
James Bowie, sergeant of His Majesty s
wine cellars (who left no son) — dated ist
June, 1659, as all and haill that tenement of land, close, yard, little
house and little yard upon the north side of the said tenement " now
converted into ane hale great ludging or tenement of land, and ane
yard, all pertaining of old to Jerome Bowie, thereafter to the deceased
James Bowie, sergeant of the late King's wine cellar, his son, there-
after to the deceased Anna and Elizabeth Bowie, his only daughters,
etc., lying within said burgh at the foot of St. Mary's Wynd thereof,
and on the east side of the same."

4-22

ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBlLlTV.

The ludging forms the east side of the courtyard, which is about
60 feet long by 30 feet wide, and thus faces the gateway. It is two
storeys in height, with corbie-stepped gables, and has two dormer

mmiHH_"i L'-S

windows to the back. It had formerly two to the front, but only one
now remains, all with different terminals (sketches, page 423). A
remarkable feature is the finely-moulded front doorway of the ludging

JAMES BOWIES LUDGING.

423

JV.0£

mm. '

itself (sketch, page 421), with carved lintel, concealed by a modern

outside stair. The figures and coat of arms (a

scroll enclosing a saltier with bull's head (sketch,

page 424), and the initials, I. B., 1626, give its

owner's name and armorial bearings, with the

date of erection. ••"

The windows in the gable to Irvine Place

are of considerable height from the ground, and

the front wall and gateway to the court facing

St. Mary's Wynd are three feet thick. The gate,

from the marks of its hinges, must have been a

heavy one. All this arrangement points to the

Judging having been without the protection of the town wall, and a
fortress within itself ; and from the boundaries
then of Duncan Watson's adjoining property, in
1699, which are described as outside the Port Gate,
this must also have been the case with this ludging.
This court was known in our early days as Bowie's
Court.

James Bowie was married to N. Cherry-
stone, designed as " Ceymlare to His Majesty,
James VI.," who survived her husband, who
died about 1659 ; and she is consenter to her
daughter's disposition. James Bowie was, along

with a number of the King's servants, on 17th July. 1617, admitted a

HI.

* Note. — Sir J. Balfour Paul, on submission of a special sketch taken after the whitewash was
scraped off the shield, considered it interesting, and that it was the coat of arms — "a saltier with a bull
or cow's head embossed, the only arms shewn from an old MSS. of the Bowie family, and almost
invariably belonging to families in Annandale." It is an ancient family. The same arms are on the seal
of Sir Eustace Boiwill appended to Ragman's Roll.

424 ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

burgess of Stirling. Like the rest of the King's servants, he was
shabbily treated, his salary being in arrears on Charles I.'s succession,
and it was only after repeated applications that his importunity was
successful in obtaining, on 7th June, 1632, Royal Letters to the Earl
of Mar, "our Treasurer, to pay the feyis due unto him as Master of
our wyne seller of that our kingdom according as is mentioned in the
gift grantit thereupon by our late Royall father, togidder with the
arrieris thereof."

Since this article was in the publisher's hands, the "great ludging,"
court, and other buildings have been entirely removed.

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CHAPTER Llll.

Town Clerk dames INorie's Ludging.

* I *HE absence of architectural interest in the Panholes' tenement is
* compensated for in this ludging, which forms a very perfect
specimen of the Netherland domestic architecture, with classical forms
incorporated, prevalent in the seventeenth century. It has a gable to
the street with a narrow frontage, is three storeys in height, with three
windows on each storey (the two side ones being simulate) and a small
attic window. The ground floor — now a shop — has a heavy cornice
supported by two small lozenge-marked pillars. The building is of

428 ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

regular courses in freestone, so wonderfully preserved as to deceive as
to its age. The nine windows of the three flats, the blind as well as
the real, are treated alike on classical lines of moulded jambs and lintels
or architraves, with pediments formed of horizontal and raking cornices,
the tympanum of each containing initials or inscriptions, for which they
form fine settings. The terminal stone of the gable is a colossal pro-
jecting human head, of a sphinx-like aspect, but may be a portrait. The
ground floor, back and front, is vaulted, and the rooms are wainscotted
in panels. The original entrances were both from the close, one
having a projecting lintel with jambs.

The inscriptions within the various tympani are as follows : —

Top Flat.
I R 1671 A L

Second Flat.
I N Soli Deo Gloria A R

("Glory to God alone.")

First Flat.
Arbor Vitae Sapientia Murus Aheneus Bona Conscientia

(" Wisdom is the tree of life.'') ("A good conscience is a brazen wall.")

We learn from Rector Hutchison that Murus aheneus bona

conscientia was a favourite motto at the time when Latin mottoes were

in fashion. Sometimes sana (sound or clear) is written in place of bona.

In this form it is the motto of the Earl of Scarborough. The original

seems taken from — ■

" Hie murus ahenus esto,
Nil conscire sibi, nulla pallescere culpa."

Horace, Epist. i. 160.

These Christian and moral precepts, with names or initials of the owner

TOWN CLERK JAMES NORIE S LUDGING. 429

and his wife, and the date of the erection of the building, are very
common introductions during this period.

This ludging, easily known by the initials carved on the front,
made a good centre for identifying the houses on each side of it.

Robert Norie, a royal servant, owned the old house preceding
the erection of this one. He was, in 147 1, succeeded in it by his son,
who sold it to James Robertson, and who conveyed it by marriage
contract to his married daughters, Agnes and Jean,""" and to Maria, a
spinster. Agnes married James Norie, and held one-third pro indiviso
share ; and the whole three, with the husbands of the married daughters,
are infeft therein on 15th September, 1659. The present building,
erected in 1 671, by James Norie, bears the initials of the daughters
and their husbands, and it is suggested that the head forming the finial
of the gable is the portrait of Town Clerk Norie himself in his official
wig (sketch, page 430). He seems to have retained his office (it
was then a yearly appointment) until 1679, and to have died about
1680. It is probable he is a descendant of the early proprietor, Robert
Nory, who was a royal servant, and, in a most interesting charter,
received a gift from James II. and Maria, his Queen, of the lands of
" Quenijs halch." etc. (part of the Queen's dower), on 1st June, 1452,
the consideration being "pro jucimdo novis per ipsnm regi premitus de
nativitate Jacobus principes heredis et filii regis legit imis relatis," — as
the bearer of the first tidings of the birth of Prince James (III-), son
and heir of the King. The holding is the delivery of a "red rose " at
the Feast of John the Baptist, at Queenshaugh. As Queenshaugh is
afterwards found in possession of Town Clerk Graham of Panholes,

* Note. — Jean's husband was Thomas Anderson, but she may have married again. Agnes survived
her husband, and was succeeded by her only son, Alexander Norie, a merchant, in 1722.

450

ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

before referred to, shortly thereafter, it is so singular a coincidence
that the property, at that time, seemed attached to and followed the
office of Town Clerk.

itfSjjf

CHAPTER LIV.

Provost Stevenson's Ludging.

I N the courtyard entered by the pend in the tenement immediately
on the east of Norie's house, is a two-storey house with three
circular-headed dormer windows and front chimney (sketch above).
The four windows (one of which now answers as a door for a recently
erected outside stair) seem, from their regularity and height, to light a
large room or hall. The house has a crow-stepped gable, and was
originally entered from the square tower or staircase of the larger front

4o2

ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

tenement forming the south side of the courtyard, the door jambs and
lintels being- moulded. The back view of this south house gives an
impression of greater antiquity than its front, which has been recently
under the hands of the modernizer.

In 1595 the buildings belonged to James Stevenson, maltman, to
whom the Town Council gave liberty to take seven ells east and west
"from his work-house end," and nine ells south and north at the west
end of his house, "and that off the gait now lyand waist." In 1597
he is one of four of a deputation entrusted with the firlots to have
adjusted in Edinburgh, and on 13th October, 1598, he is one of the
inquest for fixing the annual price of victual.

On 2 1 st September, 1629, Alexander Cunningham, contravening
the Act "by bigging with timber under the foir stair of umquhile James
Stevenson's foreland forenent the Mercate Cross," is prosecuted by the
neighbours, with the Fiscal's concurrence, and ordered to demolish the
timber work, etc. Robert Stevenson, who succeeded to his father in
the properties, was Provost in 1656. The present houses were erected
after his father's death, probably in 1630, and after the above litigation.

CHAPTER LV.

Bailie Bauchop's Ludging.

HpHOMAS BAUCHOP, on 25th May, 1658, is infeft in that

back tenement of land, with the close and yard thereof, of old

pertaining to the deceased Alexander Bauchop, grandfather to the

deceased Thomas Bauchop's brother, lying in the head of the Mary

434

ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

Wynd, on the east side thereof, as only lawful son to Thomas Bauchop,
merchant, with north part of yard, excepting the laigh vaults, pertaining
to the heirs of the deceased Thomas Bauchop, with entrance by a stair
of the north house.

Thomas Bauchop was Treasurer in 1668, etc., and Bailie in 1673
and 1674.

Above the windows of the eastward part of the house are two
inscribed slabs. The initials, A.B., M.W., are doubtless those of Alex-
ander Bauchop and Margaret Williamson, his wife ; and T. B., I.W.,
those of the uncle, Thomas Bauchop and his wife ; while the initials
on the second plate, T.B., M.S., are probably those of Bailie Thomas
Bauchop and his wife, with date of erection, 1672.

CHAPTER LVI.

Glassingall House, Broad Street,

^1 TANDS at the east end of a close at the foot of Broad Street,

^"■^ and was the town-house of the proprietor of Glassingall, whose

country mansion is near Dunblane. It was erected, as the keystone of

the doorway bears, in 1737. It has a fine appearance from its terraced
d 2

436

ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY

garden, has large windows, and is vaulted on the ground floor. The
sketch (page 435) is taken from the court. The main rooms are
wainscoted to the ceiling, with press and room doors after the same
design, and the doors are fitted with antique brass hinges. The design
of wainscoting attracted the attention and pencil of an architect pub-
lishing a work on ancient architecture. On a large panel over the
fireplace is a large superior oil painting of Stirling Castle, evidently an
original, represented by a print published in 1753; and there is also a
composition landscape subject on a panel over the doorway. The view
from the back windows, which is unobstructed, cannot be surpassed,
and the house shews a fine taste in both the builder and the owner.

Mr. Alexander Smith of Glassingall, who died about 1845,
alleged on his death-bed that he had left a will. After an exhaustive
search, it was ultimately conjectured that, in destroying some private
papers, he had inadvertently allowed a holograph will to drop amongst
them. His fortune reverted to the Crown, who made a gift of the
heritage to Thomas Stewart Smith, artist, a relation outwith the le<jal
line of succession, and the founder of the Smith Institute, Stirling.

%f<M*f JV/<«Z*.

CHAPTER LVII.

Old Coffee= House.

/^OFFEE-HOUSES were established and extensively used during
^" Charles First's time, from 1629 to 1640, when there being no
Parliament, these establishments were the only refuges for discussion
of politics. The coffee-house system extended to Scotland.

The house here sketched is at the end of a close in Bow Street,
and was probably erected early in the seventeenth century. It was the

43$ ancient castles and mansions of Stirling nobilitv.

principal hostelry in 1745, and had convenience for stabling and
lodgings for bagmen or travellers ; and latterly it became a rendezvous
for the tanners and farmers meeting on Fridays, being convenient for
the market held in Broad Street adjoining. Early in last century it
was a great howff for the professional class. A former proprietor, still
alive, speaks personally of its being crowded on market days by county
gentlemen, and he remembers, when a boy, of seeing the horses for the
Perth and Glasgow coaches being stabled in the back premises and
taken to water at the Old Bridge.

The Stirling Coffee-house has likewise an historical connection.
In January, 1746, Prince Charlie, on obtaining the surrender of the
town- from the Provost and Magistrates, removed from Bannockburn
House to and lived in it during the time of his siege of Stirling Castle,
held by General Blackney. An old lady, Margaret Paterson, has told
that, when a child, she recollected of seeing two Highlanders walking
sentry in front of this close, and of being held up by her father to see
Prince Charlie himself pass out with an attendant guard of two soldiers.
Margaret Paterson died over fifty years ago at the age of eighty.
Brember, an old hostler of Macpherson's, a former proprietor, in the
knowledge of this tradition, in his old aye, brought visitors to see the
house as one of the then objects of interest, relative to Prince Charlie's
residence in it. The house was owned by Macpherson as an hostelry
in 1820, when he removed to the Saracen Head. It was afterwards
kept by Andrew Kerr, and then by Morris M'Intyre, when it ceased
to be an inn. The walls are thick and the original roof was oak, with
oak pins holding the slates. Its public room has a fine pilastered
wooden chimney-piece, the columns having Ionic capitals with panel in
centre. The room was originally wainscoted, parts of which remain.

is •: j: }M^m

wMIiwf

p!|f.>~-

. S ■;■

mi v

r - ///

O^G'&J

r?f?

CHAPTER LVIU.

3n Old Hostelry.

7| T No. 31 St. Mary's Wynd, a two-storey, whitewashed, dilapidated
r * house, with a projecting turret stair and crow-stepped gables,
was one of Stirling's old inns or hostelries, and after undergoing many
changes during its three centuries of existence, has virtually returned
to its original occupation, but in a degraded form, being a common
lodging-house. Each floor contains twro large apartments entered
directly off the turnpike, both being wainscoted with square wood
panels to the roof and an old pattern frieze. The mouldings of the fire-

44Q

ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

jambs and lintels shew that the building is of considerable age. It has
two marked features — a wide stone-arched kitchen fire-place, 9 feet by
6 feet, in the back wing, and a long arch like a tunnel (the barrel
vaulting), 18 feet wide and 11 feet in height, open from end to end
without a partition, with the turnpike projecting into it, and upon which
the house is entirely built. This seems to have been specially designed
for stables, which by Act of Parliament, 1424, all keepers of hostelries were
bound under penalties to provide, the Act ordaining "all borow tounes of
this realm shall provide stabillis and chawmers to ridaris and gangaris."
The house has a back wing entering off the long close. Neither
has any date, inscription, initials, or carved work, except the device or
ancient symbol of the Trinity* upon the corbel of the east gable — a
singular emblem for an inn — and on its western neighbour another but
indecipherable carving. From the above features, if tradition did not
confirm it, there is no doubt that this is one of the ancient inns or
hostelries of the burgh, St. Mary's Wynd being a principal thorough-
fare two centuries ago.

* Note. — The Trinity monogram in the sketch below replaced the eagle on the old Roman standard
of the Trinity. It is composed of I, the initial for Jesus, and the cross, and the circle on which it stands
represents the world — symbol of the conquering power of Christ over the world. It fell in'.o disuse, but
was revived in the twelfth century. — Hulmes' Symbolism in Chiist. Art.

} IcJ a^o^o^dL j£) £a_£ £,£ .

CHAPTER LIA.

3ncient Mouse, Broad Street.

|™*HIS is the small two-storey house at the old stone representing
the market cross, opposite the new cross in Broad Street, next
to the Tolbooth, and, with the stone, forms the subject of the sketch
on the opposite page. The present front having been added after its
erection to bring it into the street line, half conceals its old turnpike
stair. It has an antiquarian interest from being one of the few ancient
houses containing moral and religious inscriptions still existing, which
are here engraved on the two quaint dormer windows in the front roof.
The east dormer (sketch above), with a crescent as terminal, contains
the date 1612 and inscription Soli Deo gloria, and the western one,

444

ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOIilLITV.

with flair de lis terminal (sketch, page 445), has the same date with
Benedicam Dominum omni tempore — being respectively "Glory to God
alone," and " I will bless the Lord at all times." In heraldry, the
terminals would represent the " second " and "sixth" sons, but these
were too commonly used as ornaments for dormers by builders at this

period to bear any significance.

On a dormer of a back tene-
ment attached to this old house,
with a fleur dc lis terminal, is the
initials A.L., and date 161 1.

Prom the title deeds, which
go back to 24th December, 1659,
when a Robert Burns, merchant,
burgess of Glasgow, gets the house
with his wife, Barbara Adamson,
from his father-in-law, David
Adamson, we have little assistance
in discovering its builder or of the
name represented by the above
initials. The descriptions are : —
"All and Haill that middle tene-
ment of land lyand within the
Burgh of Stirling, in the middle raw thereof, foment the mercat cross,
under the foir tenement of land yet was formerly possessed by Thomas
Ewino- Tailzour," etc. ; as also, "All and Haill that back tenement of
land, high and laigh, lying on the north side of the Back Raw, con-
tio-uous to the said middle tenement, and sicklike, All and haill that
eastmost laigh foreshop lying opposite to the cross in that tenement
pertaining to James - — Tailor, and which belonged to Robert For-

ANCIENT HOUSE, BROAD STREET.

445

rester, then to Duncan Forrester, thereafter to Andrew Plumber,
thereafter to John Adamson, Notary, thereafter to David Adamson,
his son," etc.

About sixty years ago, the buildings belonged to Thomas Kidston,
baker, whose trustees sold them to James Burden, brewer, and he used
the back premises for the purposes of his trade. As Provost Robert
Forrester of Boquhan and Duncan Forrester of Oueenshaugh were
both undoubtedly alive in 1601, it is just possible that either of them
may have rebuilt the house in 161 2 ; and it may be upon the site of
Provost Robert Forrester of Kelyemuk's house — the ludging which he
bought for ^100 from Marion Bruce, referred to in a transaction about
the Queen Dowager's hat, placed in pawn, of date, 10th June, 1547.

CHAPTER LA.

3n Old Doorway.

lVTO. 74 St. Mary's Wynd owns
this fine doorway, with scroll
pediment and small quaint window
over it. The house, of two storeys,
is partly below the level of the street in front, and at the back is
three storeys in height. The interior contains no marks of any kind
beyond those of a simple dwelling, and no date or inscription. Its
erection, judging by the doorway and pediments, may be ascribed to
early in the eighteenth century.

-, Oa-JCe^i, _jzytT^_e,£.

CHAPTER LAI.

Le Boghall Ludging, etc.

a TENEMENT bearing this name, we learn from an old Protocol
Book belonged, on iith April, 1476, to an Alexander Symson
and Jonet Ayre, who are then infeft in it. It seems to have been
situated in what is now Kirk Wynd, or in the close adjacent, and the
antiquity and characteristics of the building (sketch, page 451). as seen

45o

ANCIENT CASTLES AND .MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

from the close, bear evidence of its having been a superior house, and
may be Boghall. The ground floor is vaulted, and the windows, which
with the doors are deeply splayed, have strong interlacing iron bars,
peculiar to buildings of the sixteenth century. The attention of Mr. D.
Y. Cameron, the etcher painter, was drawn to it and to the doorway,
which he said was similar to those of houses he had seen in Venice.
Its vicinity to Bruce of Auchenbowie's ludging suggests the origin of
the name " Bogleha," popularly ascribed to that tenement.

On another old tenement (No. 13 Baker Street, sketch, page 449),

the westmost of three
r__J^fk ancient crow-stepped gabled
^$[ houses, all of the same con-

^^^^P^^^^-^&^^^^ll struction and attached, with

Wh ^ §5 Hsfi li ^ iffof I ^M §4 L"

^^j'^^^^^^S^^^^^^^W^lA their gables fronting that

E£VaC street, is the inscription and

^^5 date, 16 — (the latter parti-
&a ally obliterated, but seems
to be 1 631) given here. A
special meaning is attributed to this inscription as an allusion to the
owner of its westmost neighbour, an old square three-storey tenement,
who, after its erection, had conspicuously affixed his arms and initials,
and through impecuniosity had to sell the building. This legend is
hardly corroborated by the title deeds, which shew that the Incorpora-
tion of Weavers, whose arms are affixed to it, were proprietors, and
that the ludging, which by its vaulting and general appearance of
antiquity is undoubtedly the older building, being described as " that
great ludging or tenement, belonged to David Craigengelt, afterwards
to Patrick Craigengelt, and latterly to Charles Craigengelt of Wood-

mil '"JM I

».

!■■'

?im%

WMM

■mUvnf

£o£~ 7J o~cLn^cx.LL(L Ic^oci^iuo-'^.e^cL).

E 2

LE BOGHALL LUDGING.

453

side, who sold it to the Incorporation. This member of the Craigengelt
family thus seems to be the impecunious owner so hit at by the inscrip-
tion, and the Craigengelt arms and initials may have been replaced by
that of the Weavers. The owner of the inscribed house illustrated
above, about 1700, was John Marshall, writer, and in 1781, it belonged
to John Porter, gunsmith. The trio, all similar architectural structures,
have been raxed to the ground, and the sketch, taken two years
ago, may be therefore of interest as preserving its features. The east-
most and most superior house contained three very fine carved fireplaces.
The old sixteenth century houses, composed of substantial stone
fabrics, but with wooden projecting galleries, having merchants' booths
underneath, are either all gone, or completely modernised. One stood
at the head of Broad Street,
adjacent to Mar's Ludging,
being seen in an old and inter-
esting print ; but there remain
two specimens — one at the foot
of Broad Street and the other
in Bow Street— the latter of ]^MWs4,
which is this sketch. It belonged
in the middle of the seventeenth
century to a Gilbert Robertson,
designed as a merchant, and
afterwards to an Edward
Luckieson. The sashes in the
glazed windows of these houses
had the lower part in folding-
halves. These halves were

^mm

H ■ "'if*-'/

454

ANCIENT CASTLES AM) MANSIONS OK STIRLING NOBILITY

often unglazed, but were made up of carved wooded panels. A
sketch of the oldest existing specimen, taken from a house in Baker
Street, is given on page 455. Neither it nor the house, however, date
so far back as the sixteenth century.

Note. — In 1643, lne Jesuit priest, Gilbert Blackhal, narrates an adventure at Stirling while
attempting to cross from Edinburgh to Fife by Stirling Bridge, which being expressed so vividly and yet
simply, and as giving a perspicuous account of the port gate, town wall, and characteristics of a Stirling
ludging of that period, deserves to be inserted here.

Blackhal, in consequence o( the boatmen at Leilh declining to cross to the Fife coast on Saturday
" as 12 hours had chapped " (the Puritans having iorbidden all work from noon on Saturday until Monday

morning under great penalties), could not return to Edinburgh
for fear of searchers sent to all inns on Sundays to see who
were absent from the communion ; he resolved to ride to and
cross by Stirling Bridge. He stayed overnight at Burrowstoness,
his host having to be eluded as he insisted on Blackhal joining
him in the following day's communion, and dined at " an aile
house al alone at the end of Torwood, which has nothing now
but some scattered oaks of antiquity," being distant two miles
from Stirling. Having had in remembrance a vision of his
patron saint to avoid for his life a walled tuwn, which Stirling
seemed to represent, he approached it in great trepidation "for
I sie a long stone wal at every syd of the Town gate, and in this
sadd condition I looked up and did sie the matter of three
hundred paces from me two gentlewomen going to the Towne
by another way which joyned with myne about one hundred
Mill"'' - 3 •*.*•" W\^C? iddffiJT paces before we came to the gate." He spurred his horse,

"X, ~y*i& (^ jft^^BHp®^^* j°'ned them, and enquired how he could get to the bridge with-
out going through the town ; and having allayed their suspicions
which the enquiry raised in their minds regarding his motives,
"they seemed to have compassion on me, and said, we are sorry
you have come so nere the towne, for now you can nathar go
back again nor turne to any hand unremarked, and followed as
an enemy to the state, and therupon kept in prison until your
cause of going by the towne be tried. But we belive your frinds
wil gette you soon brought out of prisonne, but it would ever
bender your voyage. Therfor your be=t cours wil be to enter in the towne, and you shal not go sex times
the lenth of your horse in it, for we shal tak you out by a back gate. Speak not to us befor any body, but
follow us wher we go. The towne gatte was shulte, and the wicket only open. [Last port gate erected
1 591]. I lighted from my hois, and bouldly followed them in, and Ihey entered in at the first great gatte
upon our right hand, but about twenty paces from the gatte of the towne. They left the dore open behind

LE BOGHALL LUDGING.

455

them, ior me to follow, and when I was in they did boult it, for befor it was shut only with a sneck that
lifted up, or, as the French call it, unloquet. The loging perteaned seurly to some personne of quality,
for it was very fair, a great courte budded on three quarters, and a baluster of iron on the side towards
the garden, which had a faire and large parterre. By good fortune, there was no body in al the loging ;
whither no body was then dwelling in it, or that al the people were gone to the preaching, I cannot lei,
for I was so glad to winne away that I did nor enquyr. They did take me through an alle [alley] of the
garden to a stare which descended by the side of the towne walle : The stare was al of stone, and but
little more as one foote broade, and very steep downe. The wall was on the lefte hand of it, and nothing
on the other side to sauve people from falling from it to the right hand. My hors made great difficulty to
enter it, but one of the gentlewomen did tak the end of ths bridle, and going befor him did draw him to
her, and I did go behind and pousse him downe until he got his hindermost feet one marche downe, and
then he did runne downe al the reste, and the gentlewoman before him, and did hold him until the other
and I came to her. They were two very hamUome gentlewomen, and very civil, and, as I could judge,
sisteres ; for in visage and voice and clothing they were so lyk one another, that they could not be easily
distinguished, unles both present together. When we were al downe, they did show me the way to the
bridge, distinguishing it from the way which did go to Alloway [Alloa], a little towne upon the same
water of Forth ; and they bidding God give me good successe of my processe, and I giveing Ihem many
humble thanks for the great favour which they had clone me, we separated. They went up the stare
againe, and I to the bridge, but softly, until I had passed the bridge, and was up the bray on the other
side of the water.

" I thanked God with al my heart and soule, who had so mercifully provided theis two gentlewomen to
deliver me out of the danger that threatened me. For if I had gone through the towne (as I would have
bein constrained to do if I had not rencountered happily theis gentlewomen). I would have been sent with
a gard to the castel, to bein examined. For the Scots army was then at Newcastel, and no stranger or
unknowen man was suffered to passe through any towne that had a governeur until he were first presented
to him ; wher if I had been carried, my fortune had bein soone made."

Mi 'H

';Tiii:i/iir;!!!F.:i^:fj|i!i!!iiTiT:i|n'T'.'.i(([i(ffp

Old Port Gate and Guard Room.

I N Bailie Ronald's interesting" and reliable work, reference is made
* to "the Round House" existing- in Messrs. Kinross's grounds,
and with the view of getting details for a sketch of what the old Port
Gate may have been, we examined it. The title-page contains a sketch
of it, and of what appears to be an ancient gateway. This points to it
being the guard room, invariably attached to the main entrance or
gateway of all walled towns. The tower is two storeys high, and

retains its conical roof,
while its ground floor, a

vaulted chamber with
flagged floor, is 27 feet by
2 1 feet and 1 2 feet high.
^^pWcJl The archwav is 16 feet
broad by 9-Jr leet high, and

runs through the breadth
of the wall, about 40 feet,
having the outside end
built up, and the town
wall is 6 to 8 feet thick.
The ceiling of the vaulted archway forms the ground floor of a dwelling-
house. Both archway and guard room are utilised as a smithy, etc.

In the sketch, we have merely restored the battlements and its
corbel supports to the gateway, and added the beam for the working of
the portcullis from the design of a Dutch town gate. The position of

Novlk

OLD PORT GATE AND GUARD ROOM.

457

this guard room identifies the archway as the main entrance to the
town until that was shifted farther west, such invariably occupying the
right hand side of its inner gate. The flags cover a vaulted cell, which
we did not see, but Bailie Ronald gives its dimensions as 1 1 feet by
7 feet and 7 feet high. This would be lighted by a grating in the
guard room floor. A cell for temporary confinement always formed
part of these guard rooms.

Old Coat of 3rms.

P*HE above shield with an apparent coat of arms is presently the
lintel stone of a common doorway in the tan works entering" off
Queen Street, Stirling. It has a date, now indecipherable, and the
initials \Y. A. On submission of the sketch to Sir J. B. Paul, Lyon
King-at-arms, for identification, his opinion was that the arms had been
carved by a person who did not know the meaning of what he was
doing, and that they were incapable of identification.

This sketch is a tablet over the small crow-
stepped gabled house at the foot of Barn Road,
adjacent to St. Mary's Wynd, and contains the
initials J. A. and E.G. and date 1733. The
ownership is ascribed to Provost James Alexander
and his spouse, E. Glass, an ancestor of Sir
James Alexander of Westerton. There may be a
connection between it and the above, as the first
tablet has evidently been brought irom some
older building, and may also belong to the Alexander family, having A
as the surname on it.

^W'^Sr^

CHAPTER LAN.

The Town's Mills.

P\ sketch opposite shows the Brig Mill,

^■^ *™b with part of a ruin which includes an
f$ arch as it existed in 1850, and the remains of the
vault under the old guard-house at the Bridge.
This mill and the Burrows Mill belonged
originally to the Preaching or Dominican Friars of Stirling, whose
monastery, or house, was situated in the vicinity of the present Post
Office, and who held at the time of the Reformation, in addition thereto,
lands, annual rents, and other property which formed their endowments.
These extensive and valuable possessions, and specially the above-
named mills, by the cupidity of the Friars and prebendaries, when the
old religion and its rights were abolished, were disposed of by Prior
Andrew Makneill, in 1 560, to Alexander Erskine of Cangnoir, brother-
german of John, Lord Erskine, and Margaret Home, his spouse, which
was confirmed by Francis and Mary. This transaction, by which the
Town Council and Magistrates were overreached, and what should
have belonged to them (being supported by the burgesses' multures)
passed to a private individual, not even a burgess, naturally irritated
them ; and on 15th December, 1561, a suggestion is recorded by James
Stirling of Keir, then Provost, " anent obtaining the Burgh Mills, with
the crofts, yairds, and lands to the common gude, for sic reasonable

462 ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

causes to be done to the Quenis grace plessour, and the haill Council
thought the same expedient and tak upon hand therefore the bigging
of the park dyke with such other things as may maist easily be con-
venit." Accordingly, on the representation of the Deputies of the
Town to the Queen, whether the said dyke was built or the other
things "maist easily convenit " were executed or not, Mary Queen of
Scots, by herself (Darnley, her husband, having been murdered the
previous February), on 15th April, 1567, granted to the Provost,
Magistrates, and Town Council of Stirling, •' all lands, tenements,
houses, buildings, chapels, churches, yards, annual rents, fruits, and
others whatsoever, which belonged to the Dominican or Preaching
Friars and Minorites or Franciscans," and rescinded and annulled all
and sundry such previous alienations and dispositions by the Friars, etc.
We quote these conflicting dispositions to the same properties thus
fully, to explain the after-continued litigation between the town and
Cangnoir as to the ownership or right to the mills, a most valuable
asset of the Friars. In Erskine of Cangnoir's conveyance the two mills
are specially described and the sasine of him and his spouse therein,
with Francis and Mary's confirmation as the over superior thereof,
completed the investiture in their persons absolutely ; whereas the mills
are not even mentioned in the town's charter of the Friars' properties.
After years of litigation, and many ridings to Edinburgh by the
Town Clerk " in pursuit of the mills " with Cangnoir, the Provost,
with others, are deputed "to pass to Thomas Erskine of Gogar (Cang-
noir's successor), and treat with him concerning his reputed right to the
mills and lands within this burgh upon conditions as shall be set down
to them." This attempt to settle does not seem to have been success-
ful, and on 25th August, 1652, nearly a century after the seizure of the

The town's mills. 463

mills, the Town Council agree to buy from Maister Leslie's brother,
who had acquired Lord Erskine's rights, these mills and their lands at
16,000 merks. In this quarrel of disputed ownership, the mills and
buildings fell into ruins, as in the same year the Brig Mill was rebuilt
by the town. On 27th March, 1654, the Town Council executed an
Act of thirl and astriction "of the haill neighbours and inhabitants of
this burgh, present and to come, to the common mills, callit the Bridge
and Burrow Milns, to grind all their malt to be brewn by them, and
pay multure therefor."

The mill shewn on the sketch (page 460) is the old one erected in
1652, and the ruined arch on the left hand side of the sketch may be
the remains of the original mill erected by the Friars preachers. The
vault of the old guard-house, shewn on the right hand side, was built
in September, 1746, to replace a more ancient guard-house, then
declared to be " in great disrepair and uninhabitable," and the Treasurer
was appointed to cause build a new " house at the west end of the
Bridge kiln, of 16 feet in length, within the walls, covered with slates,
and that without delay."

Since the sketch was taken in 1850, considerable changes both on
the old mill and on the houses in its immediate vicinity have been
made. St. Roches' Chapel existed in 1721, when a tenement, part of
its possessions, is described, in a disposition to a Robert Russel, as
being bounded by it on the north; the east boundary being the calcylcm
ducca ponti, shews that it was on the west side of the street — the
situation corresponding exactly to the roofless front-gabled building,
having its walls running east and west, now belonoing to the town.
St. Roch, or Ma Roch, has been variously named St. Moluk, St. Malo-
chij, and St. Mawwarroch, arising probably out of the prefix Ma, or

464

ANCIENT CASTLES AM) MANSIONS OF STIRLING NOBILITY.

Saint, being misunderstood by the writers. This chapel was subject
to an annual rent to the altars of St. James and St. Thomas in the
High Church, and the adjoining field, called the Ferry Croft, with the
dues of the ferry, belonged to St. Lawrence's altar in the same church.

3ddenda et Corrigenda.

Mar Ludging, for dates 1672, read " 1572."

Cowan Mansion, p. 9:, line 8, for 1644, read " 1638."

Wester Polmaise, p. 104, line 10, for Ken; read "Garden."

Manor, p. 135 (add), ''An exactly similar Reid arms occurs on the lintel of the door of
a house in Edinburgh, with the date 1557, and initials A. A. and H.R., representing
Alexander Aitchison and Helen Reid. She was probably a sister."

Wester Livilands, p. 151, line 10, for length, read "breadth."

Forrester of Garden, p. 176, (add as footnote), "Sir J. Balfour Paul says the arms on
the single shield (sketch, p. 174) and on the dexter side of the impaled coat are those
of Durham of Grange ; but no member of that family with the initials A.D. occur at
the period indicated by the date 1584. In all probability the arms are intended for
those of Durham of Mollet, one of which family married an Elizabeth Murray, whose
initials E.M. correspond. There are three mullets on her coat above the hunting-
horn, but they do not appear on your sketch. I see them, however, on a sketch,
which was taken at the time I saw them. They are really on a chef, not on a fess,
which the former might be mistaken for owing to its position on the shield.
"The shield with the three hunting-horns (sketch, page 170) is that of Alexander For-
rester of Garden, and the one with the pale charged with a cross crosslet fitche'e is
that of Jean Erskine, his wife. The D.F. and M.E. are probably the persons whose
arms are depicted on another slab in the chapel, on which is an inscription to Agnes
Leeshman, who died in 1633. Below this inscription (which may be of a later date
than the shields) are two shields, the one with a single hunting-horn and the initials
D.F., and the other with a pale charged with a figure which is indistinct, but may be
a buckle, and with the initials M.E. I have it in my notes that these stand for
Duncan Forrester and Margaret Erskine."

Elphinston Fudging, p. 181, for Pinkiecleucli, read " Piperden ; " p. 185, line 5, after
Jolm add "fiist of the name ;" p. 188, line 20, for Robert Bruce, read "Richard
El|/hinston and Isobel Bruce."

Carnock, p. 253 (add after motto, Put no ye soe into off ye Lady, and gif ye doe >e sel
repent), "Earl Graham of Airth's first wife, Annabella Drummond, was a relative of
Robert Drummond, upon whose coat of arms is this inscription. The Earl relates
he purchased from the Earl of Linlithgow the EJphinston's house in Edinburgh, 'at
the instigation of my woeful wyse wyfe, which was burned down like everie thing that
that unhappie woman my wyfe lade her hand to.' This may be the lady the sculptor
had in mind." P. 254, the initials on dormer represent Isobel Henderson, and the
monogram on that, p. 256, represent Master Thomas Nicolson and this lady, his
wife.

400

ANCIENT CASTLES AND MANSIONS OK STIRLING NOBILITY,

Bardowie, p. 266 (add\ '-From a precept of Clare, dated 17th June, 1798, by Sir
William Stirling to John Buchanan, now Hamilton, acknowledging him as heir to
Elizabeth Hamilton, spouse of Thomas Hamilton of Lenny, in the lands and
mansion house of Bardowie, with the isle and loch, the posiu'on of Keir family was
that of superior and the Hamiltons that of owner of the dominium utile.

Arnhall, p. 270 (add) " Harry Dow married Helen, daughter of his adjoining neighbour,
Stirling of Keir, whose tombstone, with date of her death and the annexed Scriptural
aphorism, is to be seen in Kilmadock deserted old churchyard, and being defaced,
the letters awanting have been courteously supplied to us by an intelligent investigator
of the quaint old tombstones in it. See sketches below : —

" WE • LEIF ' TO • LIFE ' WE " LEIF ■ TO
WE • DIE • TO • LEIF ■ ETERNALLIE.

DIE

1I""I1I"UU ii»ii'iiHjiimi]i:j'(limi.^iliiiiiliiiiiiHi|)l.];ij|vi

li. .-I !'§0V'

1 -1 ': =

'TnXTT:'^

'J,

\t.

'wt^-^V^t

jgll

L Vi:q ^

l^^gp

1 / ^*s

'■The other sketch is of a wall slab lying loose in the graveyard. It has the initials
J.D. and E.D. and apparently the armorial bearings of a Dow and Drummond, but
its connection with Harry Dow is doubtful."

ADDENDA ET CORRIGENDA.

467

Kersie, p. 330 (add), "In September, 1558, a John Abercromby de Kersie gets from
David, Commendator of Cambuskenneth, a renewal of his father's lease of Throsk,
an estate marching with it, but he may be only a tenant.

0mi0%,

F 2

Index

Ahercrombie, Sir Ralph, born at Menstrie

House 56

Airth town, description of, 336-337

Airth, Barony held by Right Hon. J.

Elphinston, 185, 336

Airth, market cross of, initials and motto

on (il.), 4. 182, 188,336, 338

Airth, tombstones in the old church of, 337"3j8

Airth Castle burnt by James III., 332

Airth Castle, description of (il.), 331 -336

Airth Castle owned by Judge Graham,.... ... 336

Airth and Falkirk created Royal Burghs, ... 335
Aitken, James (of Darroch), present posses-
sor of the third Woodside Mansion, 278

Alexander, Town Mansion of William, Earl

of Stirling, 3852

Alexander, William, Earl ot Stirling, origin

of the family 56-61

Alloa, Tower, Mar's country Mansion (il.), 81-83

Alloa Tower, Queen Mury educated in 82

Ancient House, Broad Street, moral and

religious inscriptions engraved on, 443-445

Argyll, Earl of, acquires the town residence

of William, Earl of Stirling,

Argyll, Earl of, resides in bulging,

Argyll, Earl of, entertains Charles II. in

William, Earl of Stirling's bulging,

Argyll, Earl of, entertains James II., Duke

of York, in bulging,

Argyll, Earl of, Castle Campbell, residence

of,

Argyll, Earl of, grants lands and Barony of

Menstrie to William, Earl of Stirling,..

Arnhall Mansion belonged to the Dow

family (il. )

Auchenbowie, Robert Bruce of, ludging (il.),
Auchenbowie Mansion, sold by Robert Cun-
ningham to Robert Bruce (il.) 216-219

Iiardowie Castle, built by John Hamilton of

Bothernok, 267

Barlow, Elizabeth, wife of the first Lord

Elphinston, 141, 186

Bannockburn, Barony of, history of, 283-2S4

399

9 466

13-215

Bannockburn old Mansion, description and

history of (il.) 281-285

Bauchop, Bailie Thomas, ludging of, 433434

"Bell Races," reward to winner of, 255

Bisset, Robert (of Quarrel), resides at Skaiih-

muir Tower, 189-190

Bisset, Thomas, owner of Qunrrel, 192

Blairlogie Castle, country mansion of Adam

Spiltal (il.), 124 128

Blairlogie, Lands of, marriage dower of

Marie, Queen lo King James II 127

Blairlogie, town ludging of Adam Spittal of

(ilO, 123

Bolton, Mr., owner of Torwood estate, 171

Bowie's Ludging, description of (il ), 423 426

Brig Mill, history of (il.), 461-463

Bruce of Stanehouse, history of, 234-238

Bruce, King Robert, erected Clackmannan

Tower, 239-243

Bruce's Castle, Carnock, description of (il.), 221-226
Bruce's Castle, erected probably by Alexan-
der Hepburn, 224

Bruce, Sir Alexander, builds Garlett Man-
sion, 247

Bruce, Sir Alexander, presents Kinnaird

estate to Master Robert Bruce, 227

Bruce, Master Robert, tombstone of, in

Larbert churchyard, 232

Bruce, James, rebuilds Kinnaird old house, 228

Bruce, James, sun dial, 231

Bruce, Robert (of Auchenbowie), town house

of, 213-215

Bruce, Robert (Auchenbowie), country

mansion of Auchenbowie, 216-219

Bruce, Sir William (2nd Bart.), erected

Stenhouse Mansion, 233-238

Burrows Mill, history of, 461-463

Callander, John (Craigforth), town bouse in

Stirling, 139

Callander, John, purchase of Craigforth by, 142

Callander, Isabella, family episode concern-
ing I33-134. 1S7

Callander, Robert, builds "The Manor,''... 135

4;o

INDEX.

Callander, Robert, ninnies Katherine,

daughter of Lord Alexander Elphinston, 134, 187

Callander, Robert, possessions of, 133

Callander, Robert (of Manor), site of the

Stirling bulging uf, 129

Callander Castle, Earl of Linlithgow, history

of. ■ 295-302

Callander Ludging 293

Cambusbarron Chapel, Bannockburn Field

blessed with the holy water from well near, 419
Cambusbarron Chapel, joint ownership of, 414-415
Cambusbarron Mansion erected by William

Wordie (il.), 414

Campbell, Sir James, owner of Kilbrytle

Castle, .' 382

Carnock, origin of the name, 249

Carnock Mansion, description of, 249-256

Carnock Mansion now in possession of

Michael Shaw Stewart, Esq., 255

Carror.hall, see Quarrel.

Castle Campbell, description of (il.), 399 404

Castle Campbell erected probably by Co'in

Campbell, 403, 404

Castle Campbell burnt by the Duke of Mon-
trose, 61, 400

Castlehill, Stirling, old houses, 19-25

Charterha' Mansion, formerly residence of

Sir W. Charteris, 395397

Charterha' old Bridge 397

Cheap of Sauchie, John, owner of Little

Sauchie Castle 394

Clackmannan Tower erected by King Ro-
bert the Bruce as a hunting seat (il.), ... 239 240
Clackmannan Tower now in possession of

Earl of Elgin, 243

Coat of Arms, stray (il.), 458

Coffee-houses, old, description of (il.), 437-438

Coldoch old Mansion, erection of by Robert

Spittal (il.), 107-111

Coldoch Mansion, Mr. Graham acquires and

alters, I 11

Connal, Patrick, sale ol Cowane's Ludging to, 93

Covvane, Bailie Andrew, acquires Cowane's

Ludging, 91

Cowane, Alexander, succeeds to Cowane's

Ludging, 92

Cowane, Alexander, purchases Wester Pol-

aise, 104

Cowane, John, founder of Cowane's Hospital, 97 100
Cowane's Hospital founded by lohn Cowane, 96-100
Cowane's Hospital, the residence of the

" twelve Gild breiihers " (il.), 97-100

Cowane's Ludging acquired by Bailie An-
drew Cowane, 91

Cowane Ludging erected in the sixteen: h

century (il.) 91

Cowane's Ludging, Regent Morton alleged

owner of, 90

Cowane Ludging sold to Patrick Connal 93

Craigforth, history o( the estate ol (il.), 127, 140-146,

[185, 187

Craigforth Towt House, 139

Craigforth, tradition respecting the estate.... 142

Craigforth Lands, marriage dower of Marie,

Queen to James II. , 127

Craigengelt, Charles, sale of old tenement to

the Incorporation ol WeaveJs by, 450 451

Crawfured de Haining, William, owner of

Haining Castle, 212

Dawson, Mr. John, Manor Mansion sold by

Colonel Dundas to, 136

Doorway, an old (il.), 447

Dow, Harry, Arnhall Mansion erected by,.. 269-270
Drummond, James, Mansion of, occupies

the site of Wester Livilands, 155

Drummond, Sir Robert, builds Carnock

Mansion, 254

Dundas, Sir Thomas, owner of Kerse Castle, 32S

Dundas, Colonel, sale of Manor Mansion to

Mr. J. Dawson by, 136

Dunmore, John, Earl of, owner of the

Elphinston estate, 18S

Dunmore, name given to the Elphinston

estate, 1 88

Easder Coldock, Jas. IV. 's grant of lands

to Robert Spittal, 107

Edmonston, James, probably erected New-
ton Old Mansion 412

Elgin, Earl of, present owner of Clack-
mannan Tower, 243

Elphinston, Lord Alexander (fir^t), Ludging

in Stirling (il.) 177-181

Elphinston, Lords of, history of,.... 182-188, 190-191

Klphinston (first), Lord Alexander created

a Baron by James IV 141, 185

Elphinston, Lord Alexander (first), Robert
Callander marries Katherine, daughter
of, 134. 187

Elphinston. Lord Alexander (first), killed at

Flodden, 1S1. 186

Elphinston (second), Lord Alexander, Stir-
ling Ludging sold to Sir J. Paterson by, !7S

INDEX. 471

I'ACE PAGE

Elphinston (fifth), Lord Alexander, lands of Garlett, or Garland Mansion, built by Ale\

Quarrel granted, 193-198 ander Bruce, 245-247

Elphinston, Lord, John Fleming, succeeds Gartavartane Castle, description of (il.), 365-369, 371-

to the lands of Quarrel, 194 [372

Elphinston, Lord Charles, erection o( the Gartavartane Castle, erroneously ascribed to

Market Cross of Airth by, 188 Malcolm Macfarlane, 371

Elphinston, Lord James, marries Isabella Gartmore Mansion erected probably by

Callander, 134, 187 Nicol Graham (il ), 371

Elphinston, John, James IV. confirms the Glassingall House, description of, 435-436

lands of Craigforth to 141, 185, 187, 332 Glassingall House, owner, 435-43°

"Elphinston Gerere," Barony erected by Graham, Judge, present owner of the Caslle

James IV., 141, 185 of Airth, 336

Elphinston Tower and Fortalice, built by Graham, Nicol, Gartmore Mansion probably

Sir John Elphinston (il.) 182 erected by, 371

Elphinston Tower and Fortalice, James VI. Graham, Robert (of Panholes), Ludging in

orders Lord Robert Elphinston to Stirling, 385-386

deliver up, 187 Graham, Mr.,Coldoch old Mansion altered

Erskine, family surname of the Regent Mar, 68 by, m

Erskine of Gogar, Ludging in Stirling, 387-38S Grange, Lady, imprisonment of, in Wester

Erskine, Sir James, erected Little Sauchie Polmaise Mansion, 105

Caslle, 393, 394 Gray, Mr., tenant of Kersie Mansion, 330

Erskine, use of the letter A, in the family

name of, , 68-69 Haining Castle, description and history of

Erth, family of, facts concerning 332 (il.), 310-314

Haining Castle, present owner of, 314

Flesher's Tavern (Old), Ludging of Earl of Hamilton, John, Bardowie Castle built by, 267

Linlithgow (il.), 293-294 Hamilton, John, Bardowie estate conferred

Flodden, battle of, First Lord Alexander by charter on, 267

Elphinston killed at, 142, 1S6 Hare, Colonel, present owner of Blairlogie

Forbes, William, owner of Callander Mansion, 302 Castle, 12S

Forrester, Alexander, Torwood Castle, resi- " Haugh and Brae," boundaries of, granted

dence of, 165, 167-171, 176 to the Dowager Countess Mar, 7172

Forresters Town, Mansions of (il.),.... 157-158,169, Hepburn, Alexander, Bruce's Castle pro-

[172-173 bably erected by, 224

Forrester, David (of Logie), Country Man- Hepburn, Alexander, Gargunnock Mansion

sion of (il.), 161-164 erected by 354

Forrester, David (of Logie), murder of. 163 164 Hostelry, an old, description of, 439440

Forrester, Sir Duncan, confirmed by James

IV. in Torwood Castle, 169 Keir Mansion House, the residence of

Forrester, Sir Duncan (of Garden), earliest Provost Sir James Stirling (il.),. . 261-265

reference to, 175 Kerse Mansion erected probably by Sir

Forrester (Duncan), of Garden, Ludging of, 172 173 Thomas Hope (il.), 326

Forrester, Sir James, deserts Garden Old Kerse Castle, Sir T. Dundas's descendants

Castle for Torwood, 176 present owners of, 328

Forrester, John and Neil (of Logie), Town Kerse, Crown Lands of, 326-327

Mansions of (il.) 157 158 Kerse Mill, property of Provost John Murray, 360, 363

Kersie Mansion built and owned by a mem-
"Galjery, The," St. Ninian's, built by Rollo ber of the Menteith family (il.), 329-330

of Powhouse (il.), 287288 Kersie Mansion, present owner of, 329-330

Garden, situation and history of, 174-176 Kilbryde Castle, history and description of

Gargunnock Mansion erected probably by (il.), 377-3^3

Alexander Hepburn, senior (il.), 353358 Kilbryde Castle, present owner of, 382

INDEX.

kildean Mill, possession of the Callander

family (il.), 145, 146

Kildrummy, James IV. grants to first Lord

Elphinston and wife, the lands of, 186, 187

Kinnaird old Mansion owned by Master

Robert Bruce (il.) 227-232

Kinross, James, marriage contract between

Jean Elphinston and, 133-134, 187

Lawrie's Turnpike, date of erection,

Learmouth, Mrs. J., present owner of llain-

ing Castle,

Le Boghall Ludging, -

Leckie, John, killed at Tinkiecleuch,

Leckie Mansion erected by John Leckie (il.),
Leckie's Ludging erected by Bailie David

Moir (il.),

Linlithgow, Earl of (old Fleshers' Tavern),

the town Ludging of,

Linlithgow, Earl of, Queen Mary sponsor to,
Livingston, Sir William, family history of,...
Livingston, Mrs. E., owner of West Quarter

old Mansion,

Logie, ruins of the church at,

Lowis, Isobel, Auchenbowie Mansion trans-
ferred to,

Ludgings —

Bauchop's,

Bowie's,

Bruce's, Provost Robett

Cowane's,

Erskine of Gogar's,

Flesher's Tavern (old ),

Gallery, the,

Glassingall,

Le Boghall,

Leckie's,

Mar's Regent

Murray's, Robert,

Norie's, James,

Parliament Close,

Shaw of Sauchie, 113,

Spittal's, Adam,

Stevenson's, Provost,

Stirling's, Provost Sir James,

T 18-121

3'4
449-450

346
342-346

341

293-294
296

304 307

307
162-163

219

433-4
421-424
213-215

87-94
387.388
293-294
287-288
435-436
449-450

341

67-77

147. 148

427

291
199-201

123
431-432
257-261

Macfarlane, Malcolm, erection of Garta-

vartane Castle ascribed to, -71

"Mains of Menstrie,''' William, Earl of

Stirling, succeeds to, 48, 61

Maitland, Miss, present owner of the site of

Charterha' Mansion, 397

Maitland, Miss, present owner of Little

Sauchie Castle,

Manor of Plane, history o( (il.),

Manor Mansion proprietor, Robert Callande

of Powhouse (il.),

Mansfield, William E.vrl, former owner of

Sauchie,

Mansions —

Airth Castle,

Alloa Tower,

Arnhall,

Auchenbowie,

Bannockburn,

Bardowie Castle,

Blairlogie Castle,

Bruce's Castle,

Callander,

Cambusbarron,

Carnock,

Castle Campbell,

Charterha',

Clackmannan,

Coldoch,

Craigforth,

Elphinston

Garden,

Gargunnock,

Garland,

Gartavartane Castle, 365-369,

Gartmore,

Haining Caslle,

Keir

Kerse Castle

Kersie,

Kilbryde Castle,

Kinnaird,

Leckie,

Little Sauchie Castle,

Logie

Manor,

Menstrie House,

Mugdock

Newton,

Plane Manor,

Polmaise,

Polmaise Cowane,

Quarrel,

Sauchie, 34, 202,

Skaithmuir,

Stenhouse,

Torbrex,

Torwood,

394
3IS-324

130137

33>"336
. 81-83
269 270
216 219
2S1-285
266
124-128
221-226
295-302
413-418
249-256
399.404
395-397
239-243
107-m
140-146
182, 188
174-176
353-358
245-247
371-372
365-372

261 265
325-328
329-330
377383
227 232

341-346

■89-394

161-164

130 137

55-61

373-375
407-412

315-324
359-364
103-105
192 19S
204, 212
1S9-191
233-238
419-420
165-171

l'AGE

Mansions (continued) —

Touch, 347-352

Wester Livilands, 148-155

West Quarter, 303-309

Woodside, 271-278

Mar family, fall of, , 83

Mar family, offices in Stirling held by, 82

Mar, Regent, family name, 68, 69

Mar, Dowager Annabella, Charter granted

by James VI. , 71

Mar, Earl (sixth), of, Ludging of Robert

Callander acquired by, 129

Mar, John (seventh), Earl of, marries Lady

Maiy Stewart, 71

Mar's Country Mansion, Alloa Tower (il.), 81-83
Mar's Ludging, Stirling, description of (il.), 22, 67-77
Menstrie House, birthplace of William, Eail

of Stirling, 61

Menstrie House, birthplace of Sir Ralph

Abercrombie, 56

Menstrie House, country residence of William,

Earl of Stirling (il.), 55-61

Menstrie House, burnt by the Duke of

Montrose, 56, 61

Menteith, John, first owner of Kerse Tower

and Fortalice, 326327

Moir, Bailie David, owner o( Leckie's

Ludging, 341, 345

Monk, General, residence at Wester Livi-
lands Mansion, 154

Montrose, Duke of, burns Castle Campbell, 61, 400
Montrose, Duke of, present owner of Mug-
dock Castle, 375

Montrose, Duke of, burns Menstrie House, 56, 61
Morton, Recent, alleged owner of Cowane's

Ludging, 90

Mugdock Caslle, erected in 1444 (il.), 373-374

Mugdock Mansion, erected in 1657, 374

Murray, Colonel, owner of the Polinai.se

Estate, 360, 364

Murray, Robert, Commissary, of Stirling,

Town and Country Mansions of (il.),... 147-155
Murray, Provost John, Polmaise Old Man-
sion erected by, 359-364

Murrayswood, the family residence of the

Murrays in the fifteenth century, 364

Nether Hospital, Robert Spittal's Hospital, 113-116
Newton old Mansion, description of(il.),... 407-412
Newton old Mansion erected probably by

James Edmonston 408, 409, 411

DEX.

473

Newton old Mansion held in trust by the

Trustees of John Campbell, 412

Norie, James, Ludging of the Town Clerk

(il.), 426-430

Parliament Close, house in St. Ninians, 291

Paterson, Sir John (Canon of the Chapel
Royal of Stirling), second Lord Elphin-
ston sells his Stirling Ludging to, 17S

Plane, Lady Elizabeth, Tower of Plane

erected by, ^2^

Plane, Manor of, erected by David Somer-

vi'le, 323-324

Polmaise Cowan, imprisonment of Lady

Grange in, 105

Polmaise Cowan acquired by Sir A. Stirling

of Keir, ... 104

Polmaise Cowan estate purchased by Alex-
ander Co wane, 104

Polmaise Cowan purchased by John Stewart, 104

Polmaise old Mansion erected by John Mur-
ray (il.), 359 364

Port Gate and Guard Room, description of

(il-), 456-457

Powhouse, Rollo of, built "The Gallery"

in St. Ninians, 2S7 2S8

" Priest's hole," the invention of, 151.-153

Quarrel, description of, 192 198

Quarrel, extent of the property of. 194-195

Quarrel, lands of, grants to Lord (fifth)

Alexander Elphinston, 192, 194

Quarrel Manor House, see Carronhall.

"Raws," narrow lanes or streets called, 19

Residences of Scottish Nobility —

First Period of Architecture prior and

up to 1500, 29, 30-33

Second Period of Architecture, be-
ginning to the end of 1500, 30, 33 34

Third Period of Architecture, the

whole of 1600, 30, 35

Ritchie, Thomas, old house o( (II.), 24, 25

Rollo, Sir Henry, erected the second Wood -

side Mansion (il.) 271-278

Rollo, Henry, erected the first Woodside

Mansion, 271-274

Rollo, Robert, erection of " The Gallery " by, 288

St. Roche's Chapel, annual rent claimed by

the town from, 463-464

Sauchie Castle (Little), description of (il.),.. 389

Sauchie Castle (Little), erected by Sir James

Erskine, 393, 394

474

INDEX.

Sauchie estate, last owner of,

Sauchie Mansion erected by Sir Alexander

Shaw (il.), 34,

Sauchie Tower, description of (il.), 28, 202-
Shaw, Sir Alexander, builds the Sauchie

Mansion, 34,

Shaw, Sir James, erects Sauchie Tower,

Shaw of Sauchie's Ludging presented to

Robert Spittal by James V.,. ... 11 3- 114,

Shaw Family, history of,

Sheriff, Mr., present owner of Stenhouse

Mansion,

Skaithmuir Tower and Mansion, residence

of Robert Bisset of Quarrel (il.),

Smith, Thomas Stewart, present owner of

Glassingall House,

Somerville, David, Manor of Tlane erected by,
Spittal, Adam, Blairlogie Castle, the coun-
try residence of (il.),

Spittal, Adam, town Ludging in Stirling of,

Spittal, Robert, grants of James V. to,

Spittal, Robert, James V. grants Easter

Coldoch to,

Spittal, Robert, Nether Hospital,

Spittal, Robert, grant of Sir James Shaw's

house to, '. 1 1 3- 1 14,

Spittal, Robert, erects Coldoch old Mansion

on land assigned to him

Spittal, Robert, erection of Trades' Hall in

honour of,

Stenhouse Mansion erected by Sir William

Bruce, 2nd Bart.,

Stenhouse Mansion, Mr. Sheriff present

owner of,

Stevenson, Provost, Ludging of (il.),

Stewart, Sir Henry Seton, Touch old Man-
sion and estate in the family of,

Stewart, Michael Shaw, M.P., present owner

of Carnock Mansion,

Stewart, John, purchases the Barony of

Polmaise Cowan,

Stewart, John, Earl of Buchan, Touch old

Mansion probably erected by,

Stewart Hall, see Polmaise Cowan.

Stirling Town, boundaries of,

Stirling chosen as the Royal residence,

Stirling, Sir Anthony, architect of the Earl

of Stirling's town Mansion,

Stirling, Sir Archibald, acquires estate of

Polmaise Cowan,

Stirling, Provost Sir James, history of,

PAGE
212

204. 212

203, 209

204, 212
202

199-201
205-212

238

189-190

435-43°
323-324

124-128

123
114

107
113 116

199 201

107-1 1 1

115 116

233 23S

238
431-432

352

255

104

352

21-22
18

104
258-265

[•Age

Stirling, Provost Sir James, ordered to de-
liver Keir Mansion House, 261-265

Stirling, Provost Sir James, town Ludging

of (il.), 257-261

Stirling, Provost Sir James, Lands of Bar-
dowie confirmed to Archibald Stirling
by charter from 267-268

Stirling, Colonel John, Gargunnock Mansion

now in possession of the descendants of, 353-358

Stirling, Sylvester Douglas, erected the pre-
sent Woodside Mansion, 278

Stirling, William, Earl of, descendant of the

Alexanders of Menstrie, 56-61

Stirling, William, Earl of, sketch of the

life, 47-48, 51

Stirling, William, Earl of, travels with

Archibald, seventh Earl of Argyll, 61

Stirling, William, Earl of, Ludging of, 39 5'

Stirling, William, Earl of, Ludging of,

sold by Duke of Argyll, 52

Stirling, William, Earl of, Ludging of,

sold for a military hospital, 52

Stirling, William, Earl of, Ludging of,

lait resident in, 52

Stirling, Mr., proprietor of Garden, 176

" Tibermasko," chapel endowed by the

Sandilands family, 283

Touch Old Mansion, architectural features

of (ik), 347-352

Torbrex Mansion, now owned by the Mur-
ray family (Polmaise), (il.), 419-420

Torwood Castle, Sir James Forrester leaves

Garden Old Castle for, 176,274

Torwood Castle, country house of Alexander

Forrester (il), 165 171, 175

Tower of Plane, description and history of

(i'-)> 315-324

Trades' Hall, erected in honour of Robert

Spittal, 115-116

Trades Meeting House or Alms House (il.). 1 17-122

Vennals,"' narrow lanes or streets called..

Wallace's Tower, Airlh Castle in, 332

West Quarter Old Mansion, erected by Sir

William Livingston (il.), 303309

West Quarter Old Mansion, present owner

of, 307

Wester Livilands, occupation on present site, 155

Wester Livilands, sale of, 155

INDEX.

475

Wester Li vi lands Mansion, capitulation of Woodside Mansion, history of the first

Stirling town and castle signed in, 154 erection (il.), 271-278

Wester Livilands Mansion, description of (il.), 148-155 Woodside Mansion, present owner, 278

Wester Livilands Mansion, residence of

General Monk, 154

Wester Polmaise, see Polmaise Cowan.

Woodside Mansion, erected by Sylvester

Douglas Stirling, 278

Wordie, William, erected Cambusbarron

Mansion, 414,

Wright, James, Ludging of William, Earl
of Stirling, bought and sold by,

Zetland House, see Kerse Castle.

115

«S/2? otJtrresb*rl
L ba'le Mans ion.

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